n00b

Thanks guys. I think that I have the visual on the method you described klenke. That makes good sense. We may have more than one peice at some times, but I expect that there will be times when we only have one. I don't expect it to get to the point where we would need to pitch it out. If so we need to do another route to get more comfortable because that would be really slow and that would be more dangerous than clipping past the pro ever would be.

My buddies and I are planning on doing the Kautz glacier route later this spring and it looks like it will be a team of three or four. I have never placed running pro with a team of more than two. Is there a favored or correct method for the middle man to clip past the anchor? I can think of two obvious choices, one being to use three 'biners on the anchor and clip one behind befor unclipping the first one. The second is the sketchy, unclip the 'biner and reclip it behind you. It is probably not that bad, but I think I like the three 'biner solution better. I expect that there is some slick trick that everyone else already knows, but I can't find it in FOTH or with google.