Andrew_R
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Posts posted by Andrew_R
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Hey guys... a few things... Ak Highway (which forms the first half of the Northern Lights - BELOW astro ledge) is very well worth doing, however the route trends left so if you are planning on rapping the bolted route you will get a good view of that crux pitch from about 50m to the left...
to rap the route I dont recall exactly but above that 2nd pitch you would have to leave some gear... also the traversing nature of the route will make rapping belay to belay pretty difficult I'd imagine.... and you probably wont get to work any of the moves on the 2nd pitch anyways because it really is quite overhanging
I've also done the North-north arete and can say that that trail to astro ledge isnt easy either.... on the plus side if you puke and stuff you can easily rap off the top of the second picth....
As far as style is concerned my friend Josh and I walked up there and onsighted every pitch... I had the 2nd pitch and it was without a doubt the most challenging lead of my life... it took an hour... I was probably as intimidated as you are as the climbing was at my limit
So I suppose my advice is to put some whiskey in your water and go get your fuckin send on... then you wont really give a shit about whats on cc.com
hope this helps, cheers
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My guess is you'd barf all morning long, after 2 beers
What does sex in a canoe and American beer have in common?
They're both fucking close to water....
'nuff said
and for the record it was whiskey
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Yep thats about how I remember it went too... I knew it was only a matter of time before my ass appeared on CC.com
Always a good time, cheers boys and girls 
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Nice work Russ that stuff acctually looks pretty decent, glad you're getting some good swingin in too
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Nice work Tyler,
too bad we missed the real 80's, leg warmers and Iron Maiden, Fuck yea! looks like a sweet place, good on ya -
Check your PMs, I'm very interested
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Thanks. And ummm I dunno, I dont really watch the clock too too closely but we left the car just before 7am and were on the summit of the north spire at 11:15 (we soloed the N ridge) and I think we got down off the west ridge of Rexford at 4ish, so 5 and a half hours I guess... u should go do it, it is a really fun day out
pretty easy tick for "D-" because you can very easily bail at either of col's if you're not into continuing... commitment is basically nil -
Oh... and I forgot to mention the "north Slesse glacier" is also completely gone except for a bit of the same clingon shit
Cheers
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Well... I climbed the Ensakwatch enchainment with Arran Scott and Ian Steele yesterday and we got good views (of Slesse at least anyways) and the bypass glacier has avalanched as well!
There's still some snow kickin around but it doesn't look like it would pose a problem at all... so as soon as the weather finally gets good... PS. the enchainment we did was a great day out 11.5hrs car to car, and we were moving at a fairly casual speed... if you like climbing clean granite splitters I'd recommend it
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I talked to a friend recently who was a good friend of Guy and John's (who'd climbed the navigator) and apparently they said "it was fine just a little run out in places"... I didn't ask for more info... I'm a bit more interested in the east pillar but I'm sure it would be a good route too. I hope u crank it
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mmmm... looks good, so have those glaciers tumbled away yet too?
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Check the conditions out for yourself, Zoran put a nice picture on Bivouac.com, sounds like things were a tad warm
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Here's another photo of our route... this was taken the morning of the 14th from our camp and kinda shows better what the conditions were like when we climbed it. This is probably the most sun the face ever sees. The lower snow ramps and stuff are hidden behind the buttress there.
We roped up at the blue square and belayed at each of the red dots... my shitty snow belay was at the final red dot. As you can see many variations are possible, hope this helps... Enjoy!
[TR] Lesser Wedge- North Face - FA 4/24/2006
in British Columbia/Canada
Posted
Ah ha! well done Tyler, good to hear the season up there has begun with a bang!
I'd looked at that line too, glad you guys got up there and enjoyed it man! and yep that brew pub IPA always seems to go down quite easily after a good climb.
Fantastic. keep up the good work
And enjoy your summer! Cheers