hey, Curt sent me to this website. Greetings to people who know me, my first time at this website. i have climbed with both Gary and Curt, climbed and guided this route, as well as generally been around the cascades during 13 yrs of guiding. I was last at the site 2 1/2 yrs ago with a course.
as to the accident, i was on Baker at the time, and i remeber it was exceptionally hot...90+ at the time, which i am sure was a contributing factor. in talking to the Jeff (ranger on site), looking at the accident site (telescope after the accident and binos on several occasions since), visting the site, and talking with Curt, i have come to some of my conclusions. the main one Curt has added. you can gear up for the ice on the rock (yes a slabby somewhat steep descent to the ice), and yes you can see the glacier proper from this vantage point on this route. there is an unstable area in the ice in the fall line (my assessment, tho it is definitely true the block that hit Gary and Curt curved climbers left considerably) about 250 vertical feet above. depending on ice conditions you are looking at a short section of steep ice to get onto the glacier proper (some front points or step chopping) and exposure while you climb up and right to get out from underneath. an average party of two this is under 8 minutes.
the other main point is since Gary and gear have been released from the mountain, there is not a lot of ice hitting this area directly. i really feel this is just one of those long shot odds things that just happen sometimes (tho climber actions can minimize...)
as to the orginal question of route safety, the route is completely sheltered from the main ice cliff of the Hanging Glacier (it is an arete afterall). there are, however, other hazardous parts of this glacier as it has a very steep gradient with substaintial mass (upper section which changes constantly). the issue that caused the accident is easily seen from picture lake (thin bulging section of ice with rock sticking through and multiple fracture lines segmenting the ice) late in the season. my take in observing this area is that it is worse some years than others perhaps on some sort of cycle (4-5 yrs??) depending on snowfall. some years there has been blocks of ice on the surface of the glacier climbers right of the accident site (and highier) you have to cross this zone to do the climb (tho you could down climb about 500 vert and traverse into the NW couloir). on some heavy snow years the rock never shows, tho increasingly such years are scarce; i suspect this area will get worse in coming years unless our temp/snowfall situation changes.
i really enjoyed knowing and climbing with Gary. he was a good person, solid climber, ambitious about life along several fronts, calm and competant, and he was warm...i know all too well having an unplanned bivi with him on a summit. i will say seeing his pic online and reliving some of the history tugs at feelings put away in the corner deep inside; life goes foward, but it is good to have memories.
more Kudos to Kelly, Galen, Bill, Jeff and all those at the NCNP (both now and in the past). you (public) don't know the resources we have here until you need them. to work with these folks on a rescue is really an amazing experience.
blessings,
tom bridge
