denalidevo
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Trip: Joshua Tree National Park - 11 days in J-Tree
Date: 3/9/2017
Trip Report:
Escaped the endless wetness and made my first visit to JTNP. Climbed ten out of eleven days - nothing too hard but sent some great lines in the sun. Good times! Love granite.
Climbs:
- Double Cross 5.7+ (1 p)
- Toe Jam 5.7 (1 p)
- White Lightning 5.7 (1 p)
- Sail Away 5.8- (1 p)
- Wild Wind 5.9 (1 p)
- The Flake 5.8 (1 p)
- Fisticuffs 5.10b (1 p)
- Tumbling Rainbow 5.9 (1 p)
- Strawberry Jam 5.9 (1 p)
- Skinny Dip 5.7 R (1 p)
- Colorado Crack 5.9 (1 p)
- Spiderman 5.10b (1 p)
- Gem 5.8 (1 p)
- Raven's Reach 5.10a (1 p)
- Touch and Go 5.9 (1 p)
- SW Corner Headstone Rock 5.6 (1 p)
- Cryptic 5.8 (1 p)
- Butterfingers Make Me Horny 5.8 (1 p)
- No Calculators Allowed 5.10a (1 p)
- Run For Your Life 5.10b R (1 p)
- Rock-a-Lot 5.7 (1 p)
- Double Dogleg 5.7 (1 p)
- Smithereens 5.8 (1 p)
- Lewd and Lascivious Conduct 5.10c R (1 p)
- Spitwad 5.9 (1 p)
- Continuum 5.8+ (1 p)
- Invisibility Lessons 5.9 (1 p)
- Dolphin 5.7 (1 p)
- Bird of Fire 5.10a (1 p)
- Rubicon 5.10c (1 p)
- Overseer 5.9 (1 p)
- Prepackaged 5.10a (1 p)
- The Importance of Being Ernest 5.10c/d R (1 p)
- Feltonian Physics 5.8 (1 p)
- Head Over Heals 5.10a (1 p)
- Too Secret to Find 5.10b (1 p)
More photos: Joshua Tree March 2017 on Flickr.
Gear Notes:
Placed some big cams, and some small ones.
Approach Notes:
Long drive to CA from WA and back.
- Double Cross 5.7+ (1 p)
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Convert it to plain text. Can't have any special characters.
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Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress
Date: 2/24/2017
Trip Report:
Climbed the NE Buttress of Chair with Stephen Williams Friday. A fine little alpine romp! There was very little exposed ice on the route since most of it was recently buried under two feet of very dry, unconsolidated powder, which made pickets completely useless and screws viable for just one section.
Lots of snow on Chair today
Approaching the NE Buttress
On the first pitch, we bypassed the S-gulley via a direct line to the left via a thin, brittle veneer of ice-over-rock that was unprotectable until a tree belay. The second pitch was secure plunging through the deep (and steep) powder while driving crampon points into the underlying rain crust/ice layer, again unprotected until we fabricated a belay on a rock outcropping with a .5 Camalot and medium nut. Stephen then traversed left through the powder to the base of the upper water ice step and found some solid ice for a double screw belay. The ice step was good and solid; Stephen placed two more screws in blue ice before pulling the bulge and moving upwards into more of the deep powder over ice crust. His belay was a kicked-out body stance which he was unable to back up with a picket due to the funky conditions. I followed without incident. The fifth and final pitch was more wallowing in steep powder to the top of the ridge with a few slung trees. Two hours, ten minutes on route.
After lunch on the summit, we down-climbed to the first rappel in the descent gully. Only did one rappel since we couldn't locate another rap station (probably buried) and the conditions were fine for down-climbing with crampons and a single tool. More wallowing ensued until we reunited with our snowshoes at the base of the slope.
Stephen getting quality sticks in at the upper ice step
Atop the NE Buttress
Enjoying a beautiful winter day in the mountains
Gear Notes:
60m rope, 4 screws, 3 pickets (unused), small to medium nuts, single cams from .3 to 1", 4 alpine draws, 5 double slings.
Approach Notes:
Lots of powder.
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A legendary, made in Montana, Dana pack. Size large frame, size medium belt. An adjustable back panel allows a custom fit through a large range of sizes. (I'm 5-7, 150lbs with a 30 in. waist - will easily fit folks even larger than I.) Great condition, no tears and zippers/buckles are all good. It's been unused and stored indoors for just too many years. Includes Dana's BeaverTail Shovit accessory, which allows easy carrying of a snowboard, shovel, etc. on the exterior.
Dana Designs specifications:
Capacity: 5,200 cu.in./85 liters
Weight : 5 lb. 13 oz./2.6 kg
Our Glacier is a lightweight workhorse. With loads of carrying capacity, the Glacier adapts to the needs of most extended excursions. The double back pocket and divided bottom create packing flexibility while maintaining a narrow profile. Our ArcLight frame is a lighter sibling of our ArcFlex frame, able to handle loads just shy of behemoth. The ArcLight active framing, load control straps and compression straps all work in unison to provide comfortable, controlled load carrying, leaving you light on your feet.
$150 firm. If you're in the Seattle-Everett area, I'll accept cash and arrange delivery in person. If shipping and paying through PayPal, shipping costs (roughly $25) and PayPal fees ($8) are additional.
**Please note, I will be unavailable between January 28 - February 4**
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This bag is in pristine (practically new) condition. It's only seen about 30 nights of use. No tears, stains or other blemishes. Zipper is as new.
Features:
775 fill power down
Zipper is a half-length design
Weight: 3 lbs.
Cotton storage bag and stuff sack included
This is a very warm, high quality sleeping bag that I sadly just have no use for. I am asking $250 firm, not including shipping. (This bag retails for over $500 new.) PayPal or cash accepted.
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As mentioned, south and west of the summit. If climbing the north face routes, after the summit. If climbing via the walkup route/descent, then before.
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Strap on crampons will be fine.
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The basin just below (south and west) of Dragontail is a good bivy spot with running water. It's out of the zone and less than 20 minutes from the summit.
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Trip: Dragontail Peak / Mount Stuart - Backbone Ridge & Complete North Ridge w/ Gendarme
Date: 7/30/2016
Trip Report:
With a combined age of 108, JP and I climbed these two classic routes "old man style" - avoiding all that knee crushing bullshit the youngsters are inclined to do. This was JP's first ascent of Backbone and my first of the CNR - a nice trade that was.
Dragontail: Backbone Ridge -Jul 30-31 Walking from Stuart Lake trailhead at 3:07am. At 6:15 we reached the snow crossing atop the moraine, which we donned aluminum 'pons for and dispatched easily. By 7am we had scrambled the ledges and were roping up for p1.
JP sending OW crux
Such great position!
We simuled the 100m 4th-class section and by 10:40am we were at the base of the Fin where we took a nice lunch break. Began climbing the Fin around 11:30. Even though we climbed the left side of the Fin as described in our guidebooks, we still had some route finding issues and lost time.
JP starting a wild traversing 5.9 pitch on the Fin
Summit 4:30pm.
Summit glory
We bivied overnight below the summit, just outside the Enchantment Zone area - old man style.
Woke up the next morning after a windy night. Didn't sleep too well. Beautiful sunrise though. Used 'pons and trekking poles to descend the snowfield to Aasgard Pass.
Dragontail
Obligatory goat shot
Left bivy at 7:30am, at the trailhead at 12:38pm. We went in to town and bought a fresh made pie at Dan's Market and some ice cream. Then we headed to my secret recovery cabin and fed our faces.
JP fills his pie hole
Slept real well that night. Relaxed most of the following morning at the cabin, drinking coffee. That afternoon we ran into Leavenworth for some supplies. Visited Der Sportsman, Dan's Market, Safeway and the Mtn House. Spent money. Then we had lunch at the Munchen Haus. Of course I couldn't pass up a delicious pint of Dark Persuasion German Chocolate Cake Ale...
JP hoggin' down a Helga's Giant Kelbassi
Then we went back to the cabin for more R&R.
Old man climber secret weapon: the recovery cabin
Complete North Ridge of Mount Stuart - Aug 2-4 Left Stuart trailhead at 12:10pm. At 1:45 we turned left on the climbers trail and began following Mountaineers Creek. It was easy at times and challenging at others - lots of blow down and some boulder hopping. Pretty hike through the woods along a stream though.
Log crossing
Mountaineers Creek
At 4pm we made camp in the basin below the final scree field approach. From below we saw the bivy boulder at the toe was already occupied. It was now cloudy, breezy and sprinkling off and on.
Ominous clouds over Stuart
We found some boulders that offered varying levels of shelter. One was quite overhung and suitable for cooking under.
Looks rather cozy for a rock
However when it began raining harder it began to drip in a way that made us wonder about it as a sleeping area. JP found a drier location and I managed to wiggle into a semi-upright position and stay dry. About 9pm the party who was camped under the bivy boulder at the toe of the ridge came tromping by in the dark - they were bailing.
The next morning we awoke to sunshine.
Bluebird skies on the CNR
Left camp 6:20am. 7:15am we were at the toe of the CNR. At 7:55 we began climbing p1. By 9:45am we'd dispatched p3 and began simul-climbing. At 12:40pm we'd reached the upper ridge notch.
Ice Cliff Glacier
JP negotiates easy ground on the lower N. Ridge
The upper N. Ridge from the notch
After seemingly endless amounts of exhilarating simul-climbing, we arrived at the base of the Great Gendarme around 3pm.
Stellar position on the upper N. Ridge
The striking Crack-on-Slab pitch
JP leading the 5.8 layback on the Great Gendarme
JP finishing the 5.9 OW pitch
Approaching the summit
5:35pm on top.
Summit selfie
We descended awhile, using the trekking poles and 'pons for a short bit on some steep snow above the Cascadian Couloir. Just above the Couloir we found a sweet bivy and settled in for the night.
The next morning we awoke to another splitter day.
Sunrise on Sherpa Peak
We were traveling at 7:15am. Using Abegg's advice we descended the 3rd & 4th-class ridge past Sherpa Peak towards Sherpa Pass. It went without a hitch. Just stick close to the ridge and don't drop too far down to the south.
JP descending the ridge
Arrived at Sherpa Pass at 10:55am after 3 hrs, 40 min. Negotiated steep snow from the pass, then boulder-hopped to Mountaineers Creek. Regained the Stuart trail at 1:45pm; trailhead at 3:05. Another stop at the Munchen Haus came soon after.
More Photos: Dragontail/Stuart Jul 30-Aug 4, 2016 photo set on Flickr
Gear Notes:
Brought an old #5 on Backbone, used it. Brought a #3 on CNR, used it.
Approach Notes:
The usual. Used 'pons and trekking poles on both routes, no axe.
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Trip: Hells Canyon / Wallowas / Elkhorn Mtns - Baker City Bash: a Week of Rock, Ice & Skiing
Date: 1/25/2016
Trip Report:
Drove to Baker City Monday January 25 from Lynnwood, arriving at 6pm at JP's house. When I arrived he was hanging out in his new shed with his buddy Mark and Pete Keane, Director of Timberline Mountain Guides. Mark & Pete had just come back from ice climbing at Pine Creek in the Elkhorn Mts. and JP had been skiing the slopes below them. It was a happening place! Eventually we all went out to dinner at Barley Browns where I enjoyed a pint of their excellent Breakfast Stout. Yum.
Tuesday Morning JP and I headed to Hells Canyon, ID to hit some winter sun and limestone sport climbing.
South Face of the Flatiron in glorious sun
We climbed four adjacent routes from L-R: a forgettable 5.9 warmup, then a seriously fun 5.9 and two excellent 5.10c's. JP and I led all the routes. Super fun stuff.
JP getting some o' that sweet limestone
Thursday JP and I headed to the Southern Wallowas for some backcountry skiing. We drove snow machines to Norway Basin and skied 2,000 vertical feet of pure powder with nary a soul around. It was sweet but my legs were toast.
My first snow machine ride!
The yurt at Norway Basin
JP skinning through the trees
[video:youtube]sUenBW-69rI
JP skis like a Nordic god
Friday was my 45th birthday. I woke up stiff and sore. I drank coffee, helped JP shovel two inches of snow off the walk and made more coffee. Eventually I had a second breakfast, followed almost immediately by lunch. I went for a walk around 3pm down to Barley Brown's Tap House and enjoyed a Don Vanuchi Stout, then brought home a growler of their Starbottle Stout. Dinner was hamburgers, mashed potatoes and salad. I had a slice of homemade German Chocolate cake for dessert and some of the Starbottle. It was a good birthday.
That evening JP and I packed our packs to go ice climbing in the Elkhorn Mountains.Saturday morning JP & I snowmobiled up the Rock Creek drainage - a very bumpy ride that took longer than expected due to the fact we were breaking trail through fresh powder. At 8am we left on the snowmobile. At 9am JP had to go ahead alone to pack down the trail. At 10am we were finally at the trailhead.
Snowshoeing from the trailhead we initially went up the wrong creek, losing maybe 30 minutes before getting back on course. At 12:30pm we were headed up the final slope to the cliffs where we could see the ice formations.
There's ice up there!
Then came a very strenuous traverse across the slope through waist-deep powder. We ultimately had to break out the shovel to make headway to the base of a flow called Tobacco Gully. It was 1:45pm.
JP busting ass through deep pow
Tobacco Gully
After kicking out a stance at the base of the cliff, we determined that it was too late to climb; we began our descent at 2:15 and were back at the trailhead by 3:15, and the car at 4:15. Oh well.
JP at the TH saying: "that was a whole lotta' work for nuthin'!"
I needed to rest after all that effort, so Sunday I went nordic skiing with Judy at Anthony Lakes. It was gorgeous.
Gunsight Mountain, Elkhorn Mountains from the Anthony Lakes Nordic ski area
Judy gliding away
Monday we went back up Rock Creek to finish what we'd started Saturday. Another bumpy snowmobile ride put us at the trailhead at 9:30am, and we were on our way by 9:50. Snowshoeing back up our packed trail from Saturday was easy and we were at the base of Tobacco Gully at 11:05am.
Ice climbing rule #1: don't take a selfie as a spindrift avalanche descends on you...
JP began leading at 12pm. Tobacco Gully is usually easy WI3 - but not today! The left side was thin, rotten ice while the right was either bare rock or bulletproof blue ice that our crampons often bounced off of.
I began following at 1:15pm. I managed to climb it clean, but it was quite the effort. Certainly wouldn't have felt comfortable leading it.
After a double rope rappel, we were down at 3pm, descending by 3:30, at the trailhead at 4:10, and back to the car by 5pm. Good times, glad we went back and got it done!
Gear Notes:
Rock, ice and ski gear: I brought it all.
Approach Notes:
6hr drive to Baker City for a week of outdoor fun? Hellz yeah!
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Todd Skinner R.I.P.
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Trip: City of Rocks - Ten days at the City
Date: 9/20/2015
Trip Report:
Spent September 20 - October 1 at the City of Rocks. First time at the City for me - we had perfect weather and the climbing was superb! Lots of great trad and sport climbing on sweet granite - definitely won't be my only visit.
Upon arrival: sunset on the City from campsite #42
Day One
Climbed at Bath Rock.
- Coffee & Cornflakes 5.10a sport
- Private Idaho 5.9 trad
- Colossus 5.10c sport. JP red pointed it - good work!
Took a mid-day break, then went to Elephant Rock - it was shaded and empty.
- The Pygmies Got Stoned 5.10a sport
- Wheat Thin 5.7 trad
- Rye Crisp 5.8 trad
Judy on Wheat Thin
Matt on Rye Crisp
I tweaked a rib that evening when I wrecked while fooling around on a mountain bike in the parking lot.
Day Two
- Skyline 5.8 trad
- Fall Line 10b sport
Kira on Skyline
Day Three
Spent the late morning to early afternoon at the Bread Loaves, west side.
- Carol's Crack 5.8 trad
- Nipples and Clits 5.10a sport - short & crimpy with some exciting runout to the first clip
- Abortions on Parade 5.10c mixed
Moved to the Super Hits - Bloody Fingers side in the afternoon.
- Twist and Crawl 5.8 mixed. It was 30 feet to the first bolt. Really sweet arête/slab climbing after that, then a splitter finger/hand crack to the top. I extended the anchor to make a 70m top rope work.
- Bloody Fingers 5.10a trad. Sweet jambs through a low crux was followed by some face climbing, then more varied sized crack climbing followed - a 110 foot route! Best crack climb of the trip.
Matt on Bloody Fingers
Day Four
Went to Bath Rock.
- Immortal Porpoises 5.8 trad. What an adventure! Obviously not a high traffic route, it dealt me a lead full of thoughtful route-finding and creative gear placements, including slinging a huge chicken head as my penultimate piece of pro. So fun!
- Rollercoaster 5.8 sport
- Colossus 5.10c sport (red pointed it)
Tony on Immortal Porpoises
Red pointing Colossus
After lunch we hiked around to the west side of PLR.
- Funky Bolt 5.9 R trad, a superb route: a flared crack with tricky gear, then wild runout stemming over a roof, then more crack and finally easy unprotected face climbing to a belay on the biggest chicken head I'd ever seen.
JP & Judy on Skyline, Morning Glory Spire from my stance on Funky Bolt
Day Five
West side of Parking Lot Rock in the morning.
- Delay of Game 5.8 sport
- Batwings 5.8+ trad
Both were superb routes. They required two ropes to rappel, so I trailed a second and we simul-rappelled. Worked out nice.
- Thin Slice 5.10a trad. Found it more challenging than Bloody Fingers, but not as satisfying. More vertical certainly, but less actual crack climbing I think.
Tony leading Delay of Game
Day Six
I rested - my rib was hurting too much to climb.
Got some great shots of my friends climbing at Bath Rock though.Betsy leading Private Idaho
Mirasol red pointing Colossus
Went into Almo and hit the hot springs, then pizza & beer at Rock City after.
Durfee Hot Springs is da bomb
Day Seven
- Lost Arrow 5.7 R trad. Another CoR classic, I led both pitches with a single rack.
Lost Arrow Spire
Summit selfie: Tony, JP, Judy and me
Hanging rappel from Lost Arrow - fun!
After Lost Arrow we moseyed over to Stripe Rock.
- Dike of Gastonia 5.7 R - a three pitch climb on a quartz dike. It went fast since it only took two pieces of pro: a #2 & #3 Camelot on the first pitch. Other than that it was runout, juggy climbing on the occasional slung chicken head to the top. Super cool.
Tony on Dikes of Gastonia
Pitch two anchor on Dikes of Gastonia
Day Eight
Bumblie Rock.
- New York is not the City 5.9+ sport
- Mystery Bolter 5.9 sport
Kira leading New York is not the City
Moved to the Elephant Rock area in the late afternoon.
- Columbian Crack 5.7 trad
Day Nine & Ten
This morning my rib hurt the worst it had all week - didn't climb for the remainder of the trip.
Watched everyone else climb:- Animal Cracker 5.10a trad
- Thin Slice 5.10a trad
- Tow Away Zone 5.10- trad
- Just Another Pretty Face 10c
- Batwings 5.8+ trad
- Delay of Game 5.8 sport
- Suburban Sprawl 10a sport
JP starting up Animal Cracker
JP pulling the crux on Animal Cracker
JP leading Thin Slice
The evening on the last day, I soloed to the summit of the Buzzard Perch via the Summit Scramble route, 5.5. The view from the top possessed the ultimate vantage of the City.
View from atop the Buzzard Perch
View all my City of Rock photos on Flickr
Gear Notes:
70m rope is useful, even then an 80m rope would have been nice at times. Trailed a second when in doubt.
Approach Notes:
Stopping at Barley Brown's in Baker City on the way is mission critical!
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There was a rope there when we descended. We rapp'ed on our own line, pulled the other and hiked it out. Don't have a clue why it was there, but it looked like it had seen some weather. Wouldn't climb on it.
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Trip: Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete
Date: 8/27/2015
Trip Report:
My friend Michael was practicing for his AMGA alpine exam and needed some "clients" so Nick & I signed up. Initially we were going to climb Mount Triumph in a two day push, but the widespread fires nixed that option. Instead we switched to a single day assault on Dragontail Peak.
I worked until 9:30pm Wednesday evening, packed at the last minute, getting to bed at 11pm and was up at 2:30am - ouch! I left Lynnwod at 3am, arriving at the trailhead at 5:30am. Nick pulled up at 5:45am. We discovered fellow guides Danny and Patrick were there too and planning on climbing the same route - small world.
Timeline:
Hiking at 6:05am
Climbing at 9:45am
Black Pillar 11:40am
At 2:11pm we'd reached a comfy ledge at 8,000 feet and took a short break
We mitigated much of the loose groveling by staying on the ridge proper at all times, we even avoided the 3rd class walk up to the summit by taking a direct 5.7(?) variation up the summit block - super fun!
Summited at 3:40pm in just under six hours, 10 minute break on top
Two rappels to ground - it wasn't necessary and might have been quicker (and safer?) to walk down the snowfield
6:55pm we were at the north end of Colchuck Lake where Nick & Horst took a dip
8:43pm we reached the trailhead in the dark, 14 hrs, 38 min car-to-car; Danny & Patrick arrived minutes later
View from Colchuck Lake
Approaching the base of Serpentine Arete
Danny & Patrick
Michael gets us started
Nick: I like being guided!
Colchuck from Serpentine Arete
Michael on the first 5.8 pitch
Lookout - guides everywhere!
Summit in sight
Michael leading our direct 5.7 variation to the summit
Summit goodness
Obligatory goat shot on Aasgard Pass
Dragontail: Serpentine Arete photo albom on Flickr
Gear Notes:
Single rack to 3", AMGA guide leading everything.
Approach Notes:
No snow at base, didn't bring axe or 'pons.
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Same experience here. My newer Grigri 2 has a nice groove in it - even though I only use it outside for personal climbs - while my 8+ year old original Grigri looks almost good as new, despite being used daily to set routes and belay while working at a local gym. They must use a softer metal in the new models; my Petzl Reverso wears out similarly while my BD ATC Guide keeps trucking on....
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Roger's ain't bad, I prefer Princely: better rock & pro, and more stimulating climbing. Rogers has adequate pro if you know what is solid and what isn't, but I could see someone placing questionable pro and taking it for granted. There have been accidents on Rogers, possibly due to such issues. That's just my own opinion, not an indictment of Roger's as a route per se.
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My favorite way to access BOC is via Princely Ambitions. Climb the two pitches of PA and walk up and left (a bit of exposed trail) to the BOC anchors. Rap or lower in to access BOC and Marginal Karma. Much cleaner access than way of GNS.
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Knew the man. Condolences to his wife, heartbreaking news. Be safe out there.
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After reading the research on vertical mid-clip pickets, I have pretty much switched exclusively to the Yates picket with a wire. When used properly they are quick to place (and so I am more likely to place them) and just as strong as a T-slot. They can always be used as T-slots and vertical top clips as well.
Link: http://arc.lib.montana.edu/snow-science/objects/ISSW_O-061.pdf
Yates makes a cable slung picket that works incredibly well. You can place it vertically (i.e. fast) but the cable slices through the snow and gives it deadman strength. I assume you could use regular pickets in this fashion but slings don't slice through the snow nearly as easily.For the amount of use that you'll get out of pickets in the lower 48 I wouldn't worry about it that much. Learn how to make a bollard if you have to rap over a schrund and become comfortable climbing steep firm snow, I've rarely/never encountered steep facets around here.
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Trip: Washington Pass - 3 Days @ WA Pass: DEB of SEWS & more...
Date: 9/12/2013
Trip Report:
Met JP at Lone Fir CG last week to get some long-standing projects wrapped up. Hwy 20 was still closed, so I drove from Everett via Wenatchee after work Wed night, arriving at 4 am Thursday - ouch. I slept in til 11 am that morning, had some coffee and then we climbed South Early Winters Spire Thursday afternoon.
SEWS: Southwest Rib, III 5.8
We left the Blue Lake TH at 12:38 pm, were at the base of the SW Rib at 2:07 and began climbing at 2:40.
JP led p1 through the awkward 5.8 bulge. I led the Wavy Hand Crack on p2, the Nervous Nelly on p4/5 and the Bear Hug pitch. JP started us up The Aretes, I led p7 to the rappel horn, and JP took us to the top. We were on the summit at 5:33 pm - an on route time of 2:53.
We down climbed the South Arete and were back at our packs at 6:15 pm - 3:35 round trip. A leisurely hike back to the TH found us at the car at 7:35 pm.
WEST SIDE OF NORTH AND SOUTH EARLY WINTERS SPIRES
PITCH ONE
WAVY CRACK, PITCH TWO
JP ON THE "NERVOUS NELLIE" PITCH FIVE
BEAR HUG TIME
RAPP'IN' INTO THE NOTCH
FINAL PITCH
SUMMIT PORN
JP: 'BEAR HUGGIN' MAKES ME STRONG!'
Friday was a big day: The DEB of SEWS was on the agenda. I'd bailed off the route back in June of '09 and JP'd been eyeing it for awhile. Time to get 'er done.
SEWS: Direct East Buttress IV 5.10a C0
- Left hairpin 5:49 am
- Base of DEB 7:12 am; a 1 hr, 23 min. approach
- Climbing at 7:56 am
- 10:35 am we were @ the top of p4
- 1:15 pm @ the top of p7
- Summited @ 2:51 pm; 6 hr, 55 min. climbing time
JP linked pitches 1 & 2 and led pitches 3, 5 (A0 bolt ladder #1), 8 & 10. I led pitches 4, 6, 7 (bolt ladder #2) & 9. I managed to free climb most of pitch 7 - I pulled on one draw at the 10+ "throw for the obscure finger pocket" move. All-in-all a great climb worthy of it's reputation. One of the coolest top-outs I've ever done.
THE E. FACE OF NORTH & SOUTH EARLY WINTERS SPIRES: THE D.E.B. TAKES THE LINE UP THE CENTRAL CREST OF THE LEFT SPIRE
SOUTH FACE OF SEWS: THE D.E.B. FOLLOWS THE RIGHT HORIZON LINE
JP LINKING P1 & 2
5.8 ROOF ON P4
JP FOLLOWING P4
PITCH 5 - ENJOYING THE VIEW AND SOME SWEET FINGER CRACK
PITCH 8 GAINS THE CREST OF THE BUTTRESS
BIG KANGAROO, SILVER STAR AND THE WINE SPIRES FROM THE DEB
THE FINAL EXPOSED 3RD CLASS WALK ALONG THE SUMMIT RIDGE
We'd used our two cars to our advantage and avoided the descent down Spire Gulley, instead "enjoying" another easy hike down the Blue Lake trail.
Certainly was nice to get done early and enjoy cooking dinner in the daylight! We didn't feel like getting up too early on Saturday either, and climbing in the shade away from people was our preference. So off we went to the NW Face of Liberty Bell - another climb I'd bailed on, go figure.
Liberty Bell: NW Face II+ 5.9
- 12:26 pm at the base
- 12:40 pm climbing
- 4:05 pm summit; 3 hrs, 25 min. on route
JP led pitches 1 & 3; I led 2 & 4. We did hasty belays for the exposed scramble between the false and true summits, losing a little bit of time in route finding. The 5.8+ flake on p3 is somewhat loose and a heady lead. The 5.9 finger crack dihedral on p4 is MONEY!
... LIEBACKING SOME CREAKY FLAKES ON P3
JP STRIKES A SERENE POSE ATOP LIBERTY BELL
NW FACE OF LIBERTY BELL FROM THE BLUE LAKE T.H.
After all that, we were tired, especially of hiking down the Blue Lake trail for the third time. Another splendid dinner at Lone Fir was followed by a quick turn to bed. We skedaddled by 8am Sunday. Good times!
Link: Washington Pass Sep 12-14, 2013 photo set on Flickr
Gear Notes:
Lot's of it!
Approach Notes:
Up down, all around. I've now down-climbed the South Arete of SEWS more than I've climbed it. A car shuttle for the DEB is a gift to the knees...
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Oh, man - I so gotta stop here on my way to the Valley some day...
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Not as clean as Prusik, but solid, yeah. A few times I scrubbed black lichen out of a crack to make my cams bite and there was a healthy dose of little kitty litter for the feet at times, but hey, it's alpine climbing right?
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Trip: Aasgard Pass / Enchantment Peak - Acid Baby III 5.10+
Date: 8/30/2013
Trip Report:
JP drove from Baker City, OR to climb with me in the Enchantments last week where we each realized a dream: me to climb Acid Baby, him to climb the South Face of Prusik. Good times!
ACID BABY FROM AASGARD PASS TRAIL
The climbing commenced at 10:43 am.
P1 (5.10-)
A nice hand crack over a short bulge was dispatched handily by JP. You can combine the first two pitches into a full value 65M 5.10+ lead, but we belayed on the first large ledge.
JP DISPATCHING THE CRUX ON P1
P2 (5.10d)
A stout, overhanging OW. It was also literally dripping water on the left side from the previous day’s squalls. There was some talk of bailing, but that was fairly short lived. Eventually I put on my big boy pants and began battling my way upwards, dodging water drops, all the while searching for adequate protection.
After getting a bomber #4 Camalot, I sunk in two tenuous fist jams and initiated a strenuous pull. POP! My feet flew off the wet stone and I was airborne. It was a short fall and I was unhurt except for my pride.
Unfortunately that wasn’t the last of it – I eventually freed the pitch but not without a few more hangs. This was some sustained wide and BURLY 10d climbing and I didn’t trust my damp feet enough to stem in the corner. JP followed it clean, but didn’t think he’d’ve done it any better on lead.
GIVING IT MY ALL ON THE CRUX OF P2
JP FOLLOWING 5.8 SPLITTER HANDS AT THE TOP OF P2
P3 (5.9+/10-)
Here was our only major route finding dilemma. I was using a combination of route beta from several sources and it seems they conflicted. JP eventually followed the line in Layton’s topo photo, climbing flakes in a LFC, then around and over a small roof to the right onto a balancy face to a belay on a slab under the large roofs. The moves around and above the small roof seemed to be more in the 5.10 range than the expected 5.9, but it may have been because the corner was damp. Looking from our belay we spotted what seemed to be an easier line further left, up a slot past a prominent overhang, then right and slightly down an easy slab traverse. Maybe next time…
JP ROUTE FINDING ON P3
SLABBING MY WAY UP THE TOP OF P3
MOUNT STUART FROM THE BELAY ATOP P3
P4 (5.10-)
The obvious splitter 5.8 crack on the right can easily swallow two #3’s & 4’s. I led it with one of each but would have been more comfortable with at least another #3. Above, a thin crack swallowed four DMM Peenuts. Don’t go too high – a nice foot on the face below and to the left gets you to a hands-free rest. Runout some moderate slab up and left to a corner belay below a splitter dihedral with a short lichen-covered roof hanging menacingly above.
JP SAYING: "NICE ROUTE-FINDING D!"
P5 (5.10c/d)
This was the next 10+ pitch, but it felt more manageable than P2. JP led it admirably and I pulled the crux without too much effort, but couldn’t clean JP’s over-jammed .75 Camalot without using my nut tool and ended up muttering some choice words at having to hang for the second time. Bugger! Below the roof, make an exposed but manageable step right to another (easier) open book. Follow this to a very nice belay ledge.
JP CRUSHING THE 10+ CRUX ON P5
P6 (5.10-)
I initially started up the thin crack to the left as per Layton’s description, but didn’t like the feel of the rock or the looks of the pro and opted for a short fist-sized crack to the far right instead. This deposited me on some flat benches on the ridge proper which I followed to a vertical hand crack capped by some loose blocks. Mantle carefully (don’t pull!) past the blocks and head for the prow jutting above. Enjoy some awesome exposure on the right side of the tower! Belay at the base of the prow.
JP ENJOYING SOME EXPOSURE ON P6
BELAYING AT THE PROW ATOP P6
P7 (5.9)
Handrail the über-exposed ridge crest to the summit – so money! JP got this one, lucky guy. As he led, we were treated to a cool view of the ridgeline and our shadows silhouetted on the wall to our right. There was a bit of hooting and hollering on both our parts as we climbed this stellar pitch.
SHADOWS!
WICKED HANDRAIL!
KICK-ASS SUMMIT!
We summited at 6:53 pm. Neither of us had brought water, but we found some catch basins on the summit of Enchantment Peak that had been filled during the recent rain squalls. Sweet!
NECTAR OF THE GODS
A direct and rather pleasant scramble (by Leavenworth standards) down the wide, sandy gully skier’s left of the summit plateau got us back to the base in an hour. We never saw any rap stations as mentioned by some others, nor did we need them.
ACID BABY ON THE LEFT, DESCENT GULLY ON THE RIGHT
More photos: Acid Baby III 5.10+ photo set on Flickr
Gear Notes:
BD nuts 4-11 & Peenuts
C3’s red & yellow; Master Cams blue to orange; double Camalots .5 – #3, single #4. (Doubles on #4 would have sewn things up quite nice on pitches 2 & 4.)
60m 9.4 rope.
Approach Notes:
You only have to hike 3/4's up Asskick Pass to do this one - nice!
Wanted: Black Diamond 3.5 Camalot
in The Yard Sale
Posted
If you have one you'd like to part with, contact me at denalidevo@gmail.com.