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chrisr

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Posts posted by chrisr

    Looking for route conditions for Banks Lake Area

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted · Edited by chrisr

    Went with Paul and climbed part of a large flow just north of Salt and Pepper. Paul can probably identify the actual climb but it was good ice for the most part. Not too much to climb right now. Lower Trotskys was rotten with exposed rock at the top. Devils and upper trotskys looked great but had HUGE death hazard above. Salt and Pepper had less ice on it than I've seen in the last 5 years. The bottom half of The Cable is just blobs of ice that aren't connected.

    On a positive note, we were able to make several laps on some good ice that made the trip worthwhile.

    Children of the Sun was bare at the top. Clockwork Orange had a really thin first pitch but a fat top pitch. Champagne could probably be done if you can climb WI5+/6. Guinness looked pretty good from the road. The other beer climbs were really thin with lots of rock showing.

    Hope this helps. Paul should be able to give more specifics about the route we were on.

    stuart lake trailhead to snow lakes run

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    we ran all but aasgard of course and some of the descent where it's too steep. Otherwise we took a short 15 min break at the top of the pass, a few photos along the way and then a 5 min break down at snow lakes. I think by the end of the summer I could do it in about 5.5 hours. Something to shoot for anyway.

    Mt Stuart Cascadian Couloir

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    we did this in a day a couple years ago. It was a looong day though. If I remember right, it took about 12 hours. You definitely want an ice axe if there's still snow because the boulders to the left of the snow field look like they'd be quicker but they're loose and scary. Stick to the snow. If you just want a grueling day of great cardio, this is it.

    Banks?

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted

    went to banks today and it's pretty much the same report as what paul said. Punchbowl was in great but the deathsickles were raining down. Trotskys revenge is still in but it was pouring water. The cable has a decent amount of ice, zenith and salt & pepper look thin but climbable. there's tons of ice all the way up but most have deteriorated at the top outs.

    my mistake

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted · Edited by chrisr

    If I could climb "a relatively fat freestanding dead-nuts 5+/6- vertical pillar," I'd skip school and run up there tomorrow. But I can't so I'll have to read about someone else doing it. That's why I put the post on here so one of you guys will do it and post some pics before one of those damn canadians does it.

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