indiablo
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Posts posted by indiablo
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I read your complete trip report. I was on the summit monday morning and looking over the cornice I would not have wanted to be on the NF. Great post. Thanks!
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Under current conditions it would be difficult for even an experienced climber to get through using only one axe. The corridor through the 'step' is narrow and does provide a sense of safety because you can stem your way up but without having four points of purchase on the ice it's not the safest way to approach an otherwise safe climb.... Unless you are up there to push yourself to the next level of your ability going around to ascend the old chute is the wise choice.
Just my opinion.
Send me a PM and we can talk more about climbing.
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Strange. I've never encountered that... But I guess it has to happen some time. We drove up early Monday morning...left Portland at just after midnight...
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Trip: Mt Hood - Pearly Gates
Date: 1/14/2013
Trip Report:
Another trip report on the S. Side....but with nice weather coming up I figured someone is going to be looking.
Left the lodge at 0240 under starry skies and no wind! At the top of Palmer by 0500 and the wind was moderate, maybe 10 mph gusts. The snow above was mostly firm with some icy patches. Arrived at the Hogs Back with the upper Mt completely socked in. The bergshrund was open approx. 2ft at the HB but easily skirted 50ft to the left or right. The snow was pretty firm in the chute with occasional soft spots. I chose to stay right and climb through the Gates proper. Glad I had a second tool with me because the 10 ft rime step that has plagued this route was in full force. 3 or 4 easy swings and a few stems made short work of it. With visibility around 40 ft I took my time finding the summit. Not wanted to down climb the step, I followed tracks along the cornice and down the Old Chute. The snow here was pleasantly soft and ripe for heel plunging all the way back to the Hogs Back. Car to summit in 6 hrs with ample breaks.
Gear Notes:
2 ice axes
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I climbed the West Butress first and only time in 2002 with 2 friends, no guide service. 13 days from base camp to the summit and back down. We read a lot and practiced more. Our prep list of climbs included Liberty Ridge, Emmons and DC route on Rainier, The North Face and Sandy Glacier Headwall, Mt. Hood, plus several other day trips to practice crevasse rescue and glacier travel. The best thing you can do for yourself in my opinion is to really nail down your pack.(assuming you already know how to climb safely) By that I mean know what you like and what you need to be safe and comfortable. We packed way too much food even though everyone told us not to. Also carried too much fuel. People are dying to give that stuff away on the Mt so they don't have to carry it back out. With that said though you can't go onto the Mt expecting to survive on someone else so you really need to go out A LOT and get your sh!t dialed. Also, practice pulling a loaded sled...learn how to do it safely while crossing a glacier. Small things like weight distribution are super critical. Get high as much as you can so you know how your body responds to altitude...Are you in Oregon now? Your "location" is listed as MO. I would be happy to talk with you more....I have been thinking it may be time for a repeat myself
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I'm headed up Sunday night and aiming for Leutholds. Anyone been up it lately? I've read recent reports of the Pearly Gates and the Old Chute but nothing about LC....?
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Hey Kati,
I am always looking for climbing partners, seemingly at the last minute and would love to add one more to my call list
Coincidently I am headed up Leutholds Couloir Sunday night with another if you are interested...
Wonderland Trail + Rainer Climb June 2013
in Climbing Partners
Posted · Edited by indiablo
Definitely something I want to try again. I attempted a similar feat in 2009 but sprained my ankle near Indian Flats. Hobbled all the way to Mowich and hitchhiked back to my car. My goal was 72 hrs minus the climb, i covered 33 miles in 10 hrs before rolling my ankle. I've also completed the Timberline Trail several times in under 10hrs, the Lowitt Trail and a 50 mile stretch of the PCT from Mt Hood to the Columbia. I've got my pack weight pretty dialed. How do you feel about running portions of the trail? Will the trail be clear by June?