AlpineClimber

Thanks all. Thanks Gary.

I heard rumor that someone took it upon themselves to remove all of the rap/belay slings off of the route not long ago. If true, Thanks alot to whoever thought that was necessary. Good news is that new ones have been added. What's the best selection of pro on the red slab on this route? Are larger cams and hexes (3"+) best for this section?

Ok, that makes sense. My question was more revolved around the details of the type of anchor if finding a natural horn or something ended up being a problem. etc. Sorry to have implied something else to Dru.

I am seeking some "expert" advice on what people think the best approach to setting up a fixed line with a glacier rope. (To use as a prusik/hand line) For instance, if I have a picket, would burying and deadmaning a picket tied off with a bowline or some knot, and then dragging the rest with me be the right way to go? If the other end of the fixed line happens to be exposed icy rock, what type of anchor on that end is advisable? Thought about using a cam or nut, but it seems a bit dicey. I understand it's completely dependent on conditions of the snow, possible anchor locations, but I was just curious. Doesn't seem to be much written on this subject. Thanks.

This is great feedback everyone. I appreciate it. What I will most likely end up doing is trying a couple tools out (maybe borrow one or two) and then make a decision. I don't see myself doing any water ice in the near future. Just moderate 2 or 3 pitch ice climbs. I like the idea of starting something lower end that allows me to figure out my likes and dislikes, and then throw down the big money next season after a couple of pay raises. ; - ) Chris

Thanks Jaee

So you reccomend the straight shaft over bent shaft such as the BD Viper or Fusion? Also, I am 6'7", and have fairly sizeable hands. ; - )

True Enough.

I would think a single picket driven down into the snow, and a prusik attatched to the runner on the picket would suffice.

So I've been seeing quite a few people on various glaciers this year, heading up in 2 person teams. While I am not completely opposed to this idea, it does raise some moderate concern on a rescue situation. I consider myself fairly schooled in Crevasse Rescue and Z-Pulley 3:1 for 3 person teams for these types of situations, but it becomes much more difficult to conduct a self rescue if there are only two of you. (Consider last week's incident on the InterGlacier). What do most consider to be the best course of action, if there are not people around to conduct a "Brute Force" Pull? What if you don't have a cell phone? Does anyone have pointers to the best methods to use to escape the rope if this becomes the case? My initial response would be try and secure an anchor. Any feedback is appreciated.

So I am moving into low-moderate angled ice. (Grade II) such as observation rock, Buckner etc and am looking for reccomendations on good Ice Tools. I have heard that the BD bent shaft tools are very suited for these types of climbs. Also, what about Adze vs. Hammer? If anyone cares to share their comments, it would be appreciated.

Hey all, I've seen a number of people spend countless amounts of time with rope management trying to evenly divide out middle point tie-ins on a 4 person 60m. rope. (The second middle person tie in). Does anyone have a very quick and easy way to do this when your in a hurry? Thanks, Chris