SignoreSnello

Climb: Goode Mountain-East Buttress Date of Climb: 8/3/2006 Trip Report: A buddy and I tried to climb the East Buttress of Mt Goode last weekend. Our climb did not go due to an injury during the approach, but I thought I would post some information on the approach for current conditions and directions to the bivvy site: From 4.5 miles up the North Fork Bridge Creek trail, find a place to ford the creek. This can be extremely dangerous depending on the year and amount of runoff. The best places seem to be just past the last stand of timber in the Bridge Creek valley. However, by continuing upstream about 1/4 mile, a wide spot may also be located where a ford may be more feasible. In early season it may be possible to cross on snow about 1/4 mile past the last timber. After crossing the creek, look to where the talus from Goode extends to its lowest point in the Bridge Creek Valley. At the toe of this talus is a hidden streambed that extends through the brush to the banks of Bridge Creek. By following this streambed, you will encounter the least amount of bushwacking. Ascend the scree, staying left, but right of the stream (i.e. follow the stream on the left toward the deep canyon). Your approach objective is the dirty gully to the right of the deep ravine on the far left below Goode. Ascend the dirty gully to a rock bulge. Ascend about 6 feet on blocks and then turn left, ascending below the bulge. 15 feet of class 4 brings you to the top of the first bulge. Ascend another 75 feet of rock slabs (easy class 2-3). Enter brush for about 100 yards to the base of the next slab. Travel left at the base of the slab until you reach the creek. Ascend alongside the slab, cut right to the top of the slab. At the top of the slab, enter the brush again and ascend through brush on a faint trail. About 500 feet below camp, you emerge from the brush. From the top of the brush, continue up on easy heather. At about 5,200 feet, turn right and traverse to a knob with small pine trees on it. This will be to the right of the ice cliff above, but left of the prominent rock buttress that is about 75 feet tall. At 5,200 feet there are nice bivvy sites to accomodate four people. Directly above the first bivvy sites about 200 feet are another set big enough for three people. Water is readily available at both sites. Approach time is about 10 hours via Rainy Pass. 4 hours from Rainy Pass to PCT N. Fork junction; 2.5 hours from junction to Bridge Creek ford; 3.5 hours to ford river and ascend to bivvy site. When crossing Grizzly Creek, ascend upstream from the trail about 100 yards to find a nice log crossing. From Rainy Pass, water is available at 1 mile, 7 miles, 11 miles, and 12 miles. Other small streams are sometimes available. To access the glacier from the bivvy site, ascend directly up rock slabs from the bivvy. Traverse left to snow ramps accessing the glacier. For pictures taken 8/3/2006 visit : http://www.pinnaclepost.com/Peak.asp?PeakID=51&RouteID=

Climb: Mt Adams-Adams Glacier Date of Climb: 6/19/2006 Trip Report: The route was very direct. We crossed a couple of crevasses at about 9,900' and then angled right to below the cliff band and the steepest part of the climb. From the cliffs, we headed left and up to 10,900' where the grade lessened significantly. From there it was up to the top, crossing the upper bergschrund on excellent bridges. The snow was hard and consolidated; excellent for crampons. From a distance, it looked icy, but we realized that it had probably rained on the route recently and only glazed it with a veneer of ice. The ice posed no difficulty. We had two rope teams in a running belay through the 1000 feet of steep climbing. Climbing it this way ate up a lot of time as we had to occaisionally gather up the pickets. Descent was via the North Ridge. It was as lousy as people describe it. Loose rock, some snow, and a bit exposed. I would not recommend this as an ascent route - it's not worth the trouble. Times were: 5 hours from TH to camp at 7,600' 8 hours from camp to summit (see my note about the belay above) 3 hours from summit to camp 3 hours from camp to car Gear Notes: We used a second tool and pickets through the steep section which was probably 45 - 50 degrees. A strong party comfortable on steep snow would likely not need them. I'm not that comfortable on steep snow, so the second tool felt very secure. Approach Notes: Directions to Trailhead: Babyshoe Pass was not open, so getting to Killen Creek is a little complicated. We used the following roads: 23 to 21 21 to 56 56 to 5603 5603 to 2329 2329 past Keene's Horse Camp Approach: Snow covered. Approximately 5 miles to camp at 7,600 feet. Just at the toe of the glacier. Water was available from a small stream emerging from the rocks.

I will go ahead and answer my own question for the record. The road was passable to the Killen Creek trailhead as of 6/17/2006. The approach was mostly over snow. The route was in fine shape. There were few crevasses and good bridges; very easy navigation. Other than that, just steep climbing on hard snow that was very good for crampons. Our climb was on 6/18-6/19.

Heading up to do the Adams Glacier this weekend and wondered if anyone had been in there recently. Any information would be greatly appreciated.