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Posts posted by AFIVE

  1. I wasn't sure where this was Bill. No one ever answered my question about Roosevelt High in P-Town or not. There is a bridge that sort of looks like that in N. Portland (where Roosevelt is located.) This is Bridge town is it not? How many bridges have an old tatty line of crusted out mashies? Sounds like a fun way to spend a rainy Sunday Portland morning. I am not familiar with the park (Ravenna), it sounds like it's in Seattle. A bit of a drive for that kind of fun.

  2. Just stopped there on the way back from the creek. There was three feet of snow at the bathrooms at the Breadloaves!! One was being used for storage and the other was about 10 inches from the toilet seat....that suckah was FULL! The Crack of Doom is a solid 10 with an 11 move or two into it. Bloody Fingers and Beef Jello are good as well. I highly recommend the OW right accross from the water pump! It'll take four #6 Friends. Take a #4 camalot and a #5 Friend for the belay. You can walk off. It's 5.10 OW. There was no snow lower down below the Bread Loaves. Have fun and bring a belay jacket!

  3. Here is an e-mail from the Friends of Indian Creek. If you are headed there...it will be helpful for you to bring your own wag bags, so that there are plenty for folks to use who were unaware of the current issues at the creek. I'm headed there tomorrow for three weeks suckas!!


    peace, G




    Hi All


    Here is a quick update, to let you know the latest.


    On April 7th, Greg Child presented a slide show on a traverse of Comb


    and the findings of many Ancient Anasazi ruins, at Mondo Café in Moab.


    had a great turn out, and through the sale of raffle tickets for some

    fantastic prizes from The North Face and Gearheads, we raised $560.00.

    So a

    big thanks to Greg for a great show, and thanks to all of you who came


    support the Friends of Indian Creek.


    People have also been making donations in the donation box at Gearheads

    thanks to you too.


    And, we have raised over $200 from the sale of Friends of Indian Creek

    t-shirts at Pagan Mountaineering, so thanks to the t-shirt buyers and


    course to Pagan, for doing such a great job of selling them.


    We have 4 kiosks situated at Indian Creek now, complete with wag bag

    dispensers and donation boxes. The American Alpine Club provided the


    for these kiosks and 1000 wag bags. We are pleased to say that we are


    out of wag bags. They seem to be a big hit and people are discovering


    using them really isn’t that bad, and obviously realize the alternative


    trying to dig a hole where someone else hasn’t already been before and

    having to pay fees for the privilege of going to Indian Creek is not


    a very desirable one. So again, thanks to all of you who have taken the


    by the horns and are helping to save Indian Creek as we know by using


    wag bags. Also, thanks to those who have been making donations. As I


    we are almost out of wag bags, and we will need to buy more, so


    will be gratefully received.


    Keep your eyes and ears open for the next FOIC slide show. We are in


    process of lining up some more entertainment for you, and this will be

    posted on the web site and an email will be sent out.


    Well, keep up the good work. Things seem to be going great. As long as


    are all out there doing our bit, we can make this work, and we can


    to enjoy Indian Creek as we know it.


    Bye for now,


    Emma Medara

  4. Indian Creek, Long Canyon, Mexican Mountain Road all have single pitch splitters in 70 degree temps right now. I'm heading there in 3 days! There are guidebooks out there for these areas.

    As far as the hike...Comb Ridge is cool for hiking around killing time. Cliff Dwellings and great rock art pannels. Buckhorn Wash is a good spot to get onto Comb Ridge...being that it is like 80 miles long or something. The town of Bluff UT is nearby and could steer you in the right direction.

  5. I have the beta from the book that's out of print. The 10 routes or so that were in there. Anyone have any current beta on routes out there? I am headed to IC on 4/20. We were thinking of stopping on the way down and checking it out. Any beta or contact info for who has the beta would be greatly appreciated.

  6. Those bomber anchor bolts were just put in about three years ago by CM. Most of the belay anchors were a cluster of mystery metal and bad bolts. You didn't find humor in clipping those large wood screws bent into a circle and stuck into some lead sleaves on pitch five? Did you climb any of the other routes out there?

  7. MYTHOS!!! Why do you think they have been making it for 15 years. I have a wider fore foot. The Mythos is a bit narrow, but it is so soft that it molds to any shape of foot. My foot is also quite curved or bannana shaped. The Mythos is a straight last similar to 5.10's last...It still stretches beautifully. Everyone should have a pair of Mythos in their quiver of shoes. Great crack shoes that are really sensitive on the face as well. The only downside to the Mythos design is the exposed laces which can wear out quick if you do a lot of splitter crack climbing. A good trick to remedy this is to glue a piece of inner tube over the toebox area of the laces to cover them. the Tradmaster mentioned is a bit stiffer, but does have "rails" that stick up to protect the laces from wearing out.

  8. Fred, Dave, and Jeff are still needing quite a bit of funding for their FA attempt in China. Documenting his story in a film is something that future generations deserve to hear. I think this is a fantastic project. Any donations are tax deductable. Let's give something to Fred for all the enjoyable routes he has given us! I urge you all to donate what you can.

  9. The B5's are the next level from the old Boulders. They don't hang up in cracks. They edge well for an approach shoe, have great smearing ability. They are supportive and comfortable hiking. You do feel a bit pushing through at the ball of the foot, but that is always the trade off for smearing and sensetivity. I have been loving mine so far! The U.S. Outdoor has them.

  10. Club Sport hand crack on right as you come in...5.9

    thin hands on pillar with hand traverse...5.10

    short thin one in back...5.10+


    PRG over hanging thin hands on far wall....5.10+

    fingers by old school metolius tiles....5.10

    wide thing to the right of the finger crack...5.8


    Seattle: From the train station, head towards the water. Underneath the Freeway right near the ferry's are columns that support the Freeway above,which have perfect "IHC" size splitters which are fairly long....5.10-/5.9+

  11. Another trick for the Mythos: For saving the laces from their quick demise in the cracks....cut a piece of bicycle inner tube in somewhat of a triangular shape which matches the front of the shoe around the area where the laces are. Use Barge cement or seam grip and glue a bead around the outside of the laces. Glue the inner tube over the laces! It is only attatched to the shoe on the outside of the laces. Looks a bit weird but adds months and months of life to the laces which are a pain in the ass to relace!