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Everything posted by AFIVE

  1. Steins Pillar route info

    There has been recent activity at Steins. Two years ago I bolted a line to climbers left of the 5.10d diheadral. It is called "Shasta's Spirit" it goes at 5.11d. To the left of that route down at the base is a 5.10a called Mass Wasting that I put up last summer. Some other folks from Bend/Redmond are putting up some routes on the other formations near Steins. Money,whiskey,sexy is a three pitch route that goes at 5.9+. It follows a slab on the downhill side of the middle formation. Rap off the other side. Two raps with one 60M rope. Those guys also did a route called "heat stroke" that I have not done that is in the 5.10 range. Heat Stroke is located on the farthest formation away from Steins Pillar. An individule put up a variation to the original route for the first pitch. Instead of climbing the chimney, head downhill around to the right and locate a slab that goes up to a bulge. This is called "Rocket ride" and goes at 5.10a. This deposits you on the large ledge where the second pitch to the original line heads up. The gear on the original line is large wood screws screwed into lead sleeves. Not much holding them in any more. (don't fall if you plan on freeing it). I doubt if any of it would hold a fall. The best pieces are the fixed pins and the new bolts that people have installed to bail off! There are also some pins driven into the lead sleeves where the screws have come out. The original line is not all that inspiring.