I have made the needed changes as I said I would in the previous message. If living in the area (a foreign country at that) for 20 years, knowing the language, culture, routes and specific individuals does not qualify me to be a "guide" in the sense of being able to smooth all possible rough spots of which there are likely to be some in a place and culture like India, and make for an ideal partner I don't know what does. And if you need to find someone in Garhwal who can cook well and carry a load anywhere let me know. Check out the area to find out why I'm so anxious to get back.Summitpost Bandarpoonch