susan
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Posts posted by susan
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Most of them are Rick LaBelle's, the guidebook author. He is having trouble with the guidebook publisher re how to distribute the information. Since we are not supposed to post other people's info, I can't forward the info he sent me, but you are right. there is a dirty 5.12a, a 5.11b/c on small crimps, then a 5.10b/c up small crimps between Ignorance and Leopoard. there are other new routes further to climbers left also.
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Tucson would be better weather than J tree or Red Rocks, on average. There is also Cochise Stronghold in AZ and if you want an international adventure, Portrillo Chico in Mexico. Hueco Tanks in Texas is still open, but mostly for bouldering.
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I'm so glad you guys are all relying on information that is at least a year old, if not more. I would have been disappointed if you hadn't. Yes, we did arrive too far right, probably at route 9. We did bushwack to the base of 'Tracks'. I was looking right at it. The upper wall does look more or less clean, but the bottom is pretty mossy on most, not all, routes. The heat was the main issue. If it had been cooler, we would have gone ahead and climbed, moss be damned. There is NO evident trail along the base at this time. The cairns marking the junction shown in the topo are intact. I'm sure it was better in 2009 when Tracks went up.
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Trip: Return to Moss (nee Spring) Mountain -
Date: 7/13/2014
Trip Report:
M and I had one opportunity to climb together in July on the 13th so we took it. It's been hot and neither of us likes crowds so we decided to go to Spring Mountain. We'd been there before, a few years ago, and liked the short approach and long multipitch routes. We also figured it wouldn't be very crowded. Turns out it seems to have been abandoned. It was easy to find the trail off Foret Road 49 but the trail soon became a bit fuzzy (hard to read). Using years of trail hiking we managed to get close to the crags, mostly on the trail. Lost the trail near the end and bushwacked through 6 foot tall thimble berry. Could have been worse, at least it wasn't salmon berry or god forbid, devil's club. Thimble berry is more like toilet paper than a bed of nails. We stumbled up to the base of the rock and saw bolts! We were saved. But where were we. Nothing on the topo matched what we saw. Where was the perennial waterfall. We remembered it from before but it was nowhere to be found. We bushwhacked to climber's right and found a fixed line. Heaved ourselves up that and found more bolts. Again, probably at the Dart Area but nothing quite jived. Perhaps the thick moss along the base of the crags was hiding critical information. Oh, and did I say it was hot and humid! So, back down the fixed line and bushwhack climbers left. There is no semblance of trail along the base and the ground is totally hidden from view by the healthy, thriving thimble beer, occasional salmon berry and vine maple. We finally did find the perennial spring and identified where we had climbed before. Between the abundance of moss and the heat, we opted out of actually climbing. The thermometer on M's pack read 87 F in the shade. Too bad the cliff has seen almost no traffic. I remember a fun multipitch crag with quite a few routes. Routes are still there, but substantial scrubbing is needed as well as more traffic to keep it clean. That's the bane of wanting to have low use crags in the NW. Without enough use, the forest (as Kevin McClane said about Squamish) is winning.
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I could do a day trip or head out today for an overnighter. More interested in cragging than skiing.
206 860 88 seven 5
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Partner found!
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Looking for a rock partner this Friday, Aug 23. I was leading easy 5.10 in June at City of Rocks, but have been off the rock for a month. Open to destination, I'm in Seattle. Been climbing for a few decades, have all my stuff.
Susan
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Keith
I'm in Seattle and always happy to add cool climbers to my call list.Been climbing a few decades. If you want to get out this weekend, shoot me and e-mail. I also pm'd you.
hoodin1 at hotmail com
Susan
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Need to make space. Most Rock and Ice and Climbing mags from the 90s, AAC Journals and ANAM from 2000s
email me at hoodin1 at hotmail dot com if interested
If anyone knows of a place to donate, let me know. Hate to just recycle them in the trash
susan
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I read through the report and still have a question. I have no data, but my gut tells me and I've occasionally seen it that having tight sewn draws contribute to this possibility. I prefer unsewn slings and draws so that the draw can move freely around the carabiner.That minimizes the likelihood that the draw will be cross-loaded as the sling easily stays or moves to the top or bottom. Any one have some 'data' on this concept?
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I started so long ago, can't remember why other than I like it. If you are fishing, it certainly wasn't because my boyfriend did it. As a 'smaller' female, clothes, especially outwear are definitely not styled for someone my size, harnesses are a pain to find and for a long time, many women's harness came with fewer gear loops than men's. WTF was that about? I think I have always ended up buying men's harnesses. I have fat feet so shoes are pretty easy to fit but I know many women with narrow feet and heels tha have lots of trouble.
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partner found. thanks.
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All my partners are limited to 1-day this weekend. I'd like to get out and climb and camp for the weekend. I've been out a few times but still warming up. Can lead 9s and some 10s. Weather looks good at Leavenworth, Banks and maybe even Squamish
email me at smbolton at comcast.net
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Mike at White Saddle Aviation can answer all your questions about flights, sharing and costs.
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I lived in Las Cruces for 12 years. Yes, there is lots of climbing. The Organs are wild and have long approaches, few climbers. Hueco Tanks, although largely neutered by the Texas Historical Society still has bouldering and some rope routes. Last time I was there, we had the rope climbing to ourselves. There is some climbing in the Dona Anas, closer than the Organs, also North of town there is climbing in Hillsboro and even farther, Socorro. Also outside Alamagordo. So, yes, there is LOTS of climbing.
Susan
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Dave
Tried to pm you but got a message saying you don't accept private messages. I have a somewhat newer/bigger book (probably in the 00s) but don't know the date on it. I can look tonight if you are still interested.
Susan
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The old timers I met in Montana this summer said they carried 2 kinds of bear spray. One shot pepper, the other shot lead.
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I'm looking for a cragging partner for this Wed, Aug 3. I've got years of experience, all the gear and a car. Open to place, Index, Ext 38, Darrington?
email me directly at hoodin1 at hotmail doc com.
Susan
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Forests from here to Colorado are looking very sick. I just drove through MT, WY and CO. In all three states, miles (and I mean 10s if not hundreds of miles) of hillsides are covered with dead conifers. It was unbelievable how extensive the dead forests are. At night, the tent and car would get covered by caterpillar poop from all the bud worms munching away. Big fires acoming.
susan
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I'm interested in either Index or E 32/38.
Email me at hoodin1 at hotmail com
Or call 206 860 8875
Susan
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I'm definitely in for Thursday if the weather cooperates.
Susan
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Dan and others
Now that school is out, I'm available for midweek climbing too. Have all gear and lead 5.9-10 also.
Susan
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I'm got a work trip to Taiwan in June. I just read about Long Dong which seems like a great climbing and beach destination. I'm looking for more info from anyone who has been there recently. Tips, dos, don'ts, etc. Thanks. Or if anyone is going to be there, a partner would be great.
You can email directly to hoodin1 at hotmail.com
Susan
Beginner snow/snice/couloir climbs
in Newbies
Posted
Best conditions are after cold, clear nights following a low elevation rain. That can create great neve or even styrofoam snow. Also may lower avalance hazard as long as it stays cold