deskjockie

My son and I are heading down to Shasta to try the Hotlum-Bolam ridge route Sunday and Monday July 24-25. I understand that there is water running at the high camp (~10,000). Does anyone have information on the condition of the Hotum Glacier bergschrund and the glacier above it? Thanks.

I've checked the Forest Service climbing advisory regarding the Northgate road access as well as the avalanch conditions. Does anyone have any first hand information on the road to the Northgate TH and whether there's a boot track in up the Hotlum-Bolum ridge? Or Clear Creek - can you really get within 2 miles of the TH? Thanks for any info on either route

Anyone have any info on road access to the trailhead (Northgate)? Thinking mid-May trip. I assume Shasta's snow load is heavier than what we've had in Oregon and Washington this winter but not sure what's happened down there in March/April. Thanks.

I know it's been sloppy between 5-7000'. Anyone have any info on south side conditions? Thinking of a slog up Friday the 15th if the clouds part. Thanks.

Anyone able to predict when the road into the Northgate trail head to access Hotlum/Bolum will be accessible? I assume that Shasta's snow pack is better than ours here in Oregon. Thanks for any info.

Yes we did. Got to the high camp to find one guided party and one ranger. Half the guided party turned around at the bershrund. The other half (1 guide, 2 clients) summitted taking 15 hours round-trip from the high camp. The ranger and guide both strongly discouraged my son and me from climbing above the shrund (~12,000') due to the icy conditions. They were right. The entire Hotlum was ice, much of which was bullet proof. We were able to crampon, unroped, to 12,000' with a modest amount of fear and then turned around there. Out of our league to press on from there. Beautiful route though and one we will try again next June or early July.

Thank you very much. I'm most interested in the hike to high camp (distance, elevation, water, etc.). Any info about that would be great. Also, I've heard the road system to the trailhead is confusing - any suggestions? Thanks again.

My 13 year old son and I plan to try the Hotlum Bolum ridge route this weekend. Anyone have info on: directions to trailhead (Northgate - 6900'?) campsite elevations (with water)? conditions of route above 10,000'? We plan to only have axes/crampons. Don't intend to rope up - too much weight differential. Thanks for any current info you have on this route

Thanks for the info - we'll try to leave Timberline by 2am or so.

Newbie heading up hogsback route early Sat with my 12 year old son. Planning no rope up around above hogsback. Anyone have any very recent info on condition of route and bergschrund? Thanks.

Thanks yet again for your info although I didn't receive it until our return. Hope your trip up HB was successful and fun. We camped just above the springs. Got up at 3am, hiking by 4 and made the first 3000' or so effortlessly to the pancake-like boulders just under the steep rise to the summit plateau. Then the work began as we ascended a bit too far to the south up a real loose section. Real exhauseted by the time we reached 13,000'. I was becoming doubtful but my boy was insistent upon continuing. Up we trudged to the summit arriving at 11am. The summit approach from Clear Creek leaves you wondering until you wind around to the west and see that it's damn near wheelchair accessible up the well worn path! Calm and warm but very smoky all around from the fires up north. Only a very few people up our route, dozens up AG. Stayed on summit a half hour then headed down making our camp by 2:30. Broke camp, hiked out and drove back to Eugene arriving at 9:30pm, exhuasted. No altitude issues other than shortness of breath. My kid is very pumped at getting over 14,000'. Would like to try Rainier next spring. The fumeroles below the summit were cool. Hard to imagine that night that Muir spent there over a 100 years ago. Shasta is quite a place - so glad we made it. See ya.

Thanks very much for the good info. Can you estimate the distance and elevation gain to both the place you and your daughter camped and the higher spots at Watkins Glacier? Also, is water available at Watkins? Yeah, I've heard a lot about the wind. My kid weighs 80lbs, I'd like to not have to tether him to me! So no parking pass required huh? I'll pick up the 3 day pass on the way tomorrow, doubt we'll get another chance this year. Again, many thanks.

My 12 year old and I are heading up the Clear Creek route this weekend. Plan on heading into the springs (~9,000'??) Sat and spending the night before heading up early Sunday. We've been up Adams together but that's as high as we've been. Any route or altitude considerations anyone would like to share? Specifically, how's the hike into the springs, how are bivy/tent sites there, water, route finding before daylight from camp, etc. I understand wind may be our greatest demon. Any info is much appreciated.

Heading in Green Lakes trail to Golden Lake on Thursday. Plan to play on the northwest ridge of Broken Top. Any recent info on skeeters, camping at Golden Lake or climbing the crumbling Broken Top? many thanks

I happened upon this forum and have truly enjoyed some of the dialogue and route descriptions I've read. Now I submit my own very meager post with hopes of not being laughed off our modest summit. Bear with me intrepid climbers, this coming from a middle aged accountant who is beginning to enjoy the Cascade summits with his 12 year old son. We're sticking to pedestrian routes on much traveled peaks (Diamond, S. Sister, Adams, Hood). Sunday, July 20, we left Eugene at 4am for Obsidian TH. Started hiking at 6am. First snow above Sunshine, just east of PCT. Although warm, snow at about 7500' firm enough to make crampons worthwhile. Hiked up what I thought was well traveled Collier Glacier route although few signs of recent visitors. Ascended from saddle between North Sister and Middle to what we considered a fairly challenging steep snow ladder. About 60-80 vertical feet of kicking steps. Continued on to summit arriving just after noon. A little over 6 hours from the car. I'm sure y'all do it in half that time. The surprise for me was that we had the summit to ourselves for our entire 45 minute stay. Shirtsleeves were more than enough. Clear and spectacular. I know most folks diss the Middle Sister but the solitude of our walk and beautiful views all along made it worth our while. A little over 3 hours back to the car with about 2500' feet of pleasant glisade. Another great day in the mountains.