As of over two years ago climbing development has been on a voluntary freeze while the park service surveys the land for Native American artifacts, with additional studies to determine if moss and other plants species will be adversely impacted…
This winters land slides on Hwy 20 have created new problems and ironies. DOT wants to remove hundreds of 1000's cubic yards of material in the area to create a catch basin for the next land slide surely to happen in the coming winters. Below is the text from an email received not long ago.
FYI
-----Original Message-----
From: Roy_Zipp@nps.gov [mailto:Roy_Zipp@nps.gov]
Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 3:29 PM
To: jason@accessfund.org
Cc: Dan_Allen@nps.gov; Dennis_Stanchfield@nps.gov
Subject: Re: Omega Pacific funding possibility
Hi Jason,
We've been tossed a bit of a curve ball with climbing in the gorge this season.
As you know, last October's flooding triggered a major landslide that pummeled portions of State Route 20. The highway has since been reopened for administrative use, but a huge amount of unstable rock and debris remains perched above the road. DOT has been kicking around various ways of dealing with the situation, and has finally decided to excavate several hundred thousand cubic yards of material along a 900 foot section of the highway. The intent is to create a catch basin to prevent the perched debris from smashing cars.
Work is scheduled to begin very soon. DOT and Superintendent Paleck are very concerned about safety and access through the gorge, because trucks loaded with rock will be making endless trips to and from the area, there will be periodic blasting, lanes will be closed, etc. The entire bouldering area, which is immediately adjacent to slide, will be closed and access to the gorge may be limited to just vehicles. I think the sport climbing wall adjacent to Newhalem may be usable, but the details of the project and its implications for visitor use, including climbing, continue to unfold.
As a result of the DOT project, Superintendent Paleck has suggested that we put the CMP on hold until next fall, or at least until DOT's work is well underway and we have a good sense of how it will affect visitor use, including climbing. With the unfolding situation in the Skagit gorge, it would be unreasonable for me to submit a proposal for climbing related stewardship activities there.
However, we have other climbing-related stewardship needs. In particular, the parking area for Boston Basin (access to classic climbs on Forbidden and Boston Peaks) is in bad shape. In the summer, cars are packed in like sardines and there are major drainage problems (see attached photos). We are receiving some funding this year to address a variety of needs along Cascade River road, but it will not fix all the needs we have, particularly for the Boston Basin parking area. We have already done all the planning and compliance, so this would seem to be a perfect alternative project for Omega Pacific funding.
May we submit a proposal to improve the Boston Basin parking area, such as increasing parking space and installing a bulletin board and other trailhead amenities for climbers?
Regards,
Roy
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Roy Zipp
Natural Resource Specialist
North Cascades National Park Service Complex
7280 Ranger Station Road
Marblemount, WA 98267
360-873-4590 ext. 31
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