Norsky
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Posts posted by Norsky
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That Alan Watts has even considered beginning to write a new guide book.
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Anyone climbed Shelf in the dead of winter? I know, I know, it's climbable on nice days. I don't want no 45 degree bull spit. Cranking at Smith is possible in February as well, but it's goddamn cold!
Give it up wise ones!
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bignhams books suck. he doesn't specify trad, mixed, bolts, length of climbs, whether or not you need two ropes to get down. you know the sort of stuff that good guidebooks have in them. but that is what there is. for castle rocks i prefer the rock and ice that came out last year with the topos compared to the castle guidebook. but at least it is cheap.
i don't really see castle as a seperate crag. it is just more of the city. It was really crowded there a few weeks ago but by now the summer heat should have driven most people away. i think the biggest difference is that there are tons of easy and safe bolted routes.
red rib is a nice 10a arete climb. if you do big tyme do the direct 11a finish. it is fun.
This is the info I was looking for. I did not know that Castle was primarily moderates. Hopefully there are nice, harder routes lurking for future FA's. I had high hopes due to the hype. I'll have to dig out that old Rock and Ice.
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I pulled this thread back up since I'm thinking of heading out there in August. Who has been to Castle Rock, Idaho? What are some recommended routes that are 5.10 and up? Gear or trad is fine. What's the general scene like out there? Mellow or hectic? I read that new routes needed to pass a committee so there are no runouts. Is this true? Some of the rounouts at the City made my balls go into my stomach. I'm too old for that now.
Bitte!
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Check This out seattle area crags
Corrections for your link: Squamish = B.C. not Washington
Smith = Oregon not Washington.
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How's the bolt spacing up there? Any chopping happening?
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I've climbed at a couple of crags right around Oslo, and they were awesome. One (Hellerud) was like a miniature Pet Wall IMHO and was right on the outskirts of the city.
I'll be going back this July and I've been looking for info about bouldering around Oslo. I've found a few leads like Skjoman's Skole, but very limited. Anyone know more? Of course, I'll be asking the local shop when I get there.
Cheers
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It's been a couple years since I was up there. Are the waterslides just south of town?
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There has got to be a better camping situation at Skaha than that free one way up the mountain. That one has the worst commute and outhouse ever. What are some other good spots you know of?
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I have actually only met both of you one day. Here goes:
My party was topping out on West Crack in 2002. You two were topping out on Crescent Arch. One of you set up an anchor and began taking up the slack until you reached the end of the rope. To this, your reply was "I see how it is" as your partner decided to solo.
We met back at the cars where you gave us some hot Coors. We drove off to the store, only to see the two of you blaze by in a wagon with the hatch wide open! Shit was flying out of the car as you waved to us. You later hooked up with my parterns at camp, but I had already taken off.
Good times!
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Are you the Sol of "Jimbo and Sol" fame?
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I have a "High Mountain Sports" with some topos.
I believe you can buy a guidebook in the local climbing stores with an english language section
Dru,
Do you know the issue # of that one?
What did they say in the article? Choss or worthwhile?
I may email someone at that big climbing shop in Oslo the name of which escapes me now. I just wanna daydream about what routes we'll do there.
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It's worth a check to see if anyone by chance has experience or info about this valley in Norway. I'm interested in the rock rather than ice climbing. I'll be there for at least one week in July.
This is all I've found so far:
Hemsedal
A traditional rock climbing area, with numerous routes located on goodquality gneisses. Routes are 3-10 pithes, grades IV-VII, some aid routes.Hemsedal is known for its ice-climbs (waterfall-ice). Routesfrom grade III to VI (Scottish grading). Potential for mixed climbing,wintertime, is terrific, though few seem to realize that.
Guidebooks: Skandinavisk høyfjellsutstyr in Hemsedal.
Cheers
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That's him!
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Not that I've done it, but doesn't Lurking Fear involve 80 feet of 4" which requires cam jumaring? That's what some guy who looked like the Sea Hag said at the base of it a couple years back.
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As a close friend of mine said, "If you want to climb hard, eliminate food from your diet."
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I pulled up for the first time after taking a month or so off. I was pleasantly surprised to see they did exactly what I thought the place needed: some decent leading.
It has more large features than Seattle (fins, aretes, scoops). Should be cool
see ya'lls there -
here's what my friend came back with (seems to jive):
"The gravity experiment at the index town walls is a torsion pendulum like the one I used to work on when I was an undergrad. The pendulum is half aluminum, and half beryllium, and they are using the cliff as a source mass. Some theories have a fifth force called a yukawa force. It contradicts Einstein's equivalence principle, and has not been measured. The pendulum is designed to place an upper limit on the possible strength of a yukawa force by doing a very precise measurement, and not finding anything. Or if they find something, then they get a nobel prize."
Back when Cunning Stunt still had bolts on it from a retro job done by the FA, I saw a UW guy walking in and out of the tunnel. He let me go in and I saw the research area and he told me about the pendulum. He said we couldn't stay long due to the radon.
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kinda rock is it?
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Nice TR
Makes me long for the homeland.
So how much did that meal with drinks cost up there? Half a mortgage?
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Skal du klatre Presten?
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It seems like the bouldering ethics should be simple. Never clean a hold after the first ascent. Holds break off well established problems all the time, though. Especially flakes. Maybe some fatty did a bouldering circuit in Leavy last weekend.
One thing that kills me is when I see a climber using a wire brush on a problem that has already been established. Yes it is easier to climb it after you use the wire brush... but only because you made the hold bigger.
Who you calling a fatty?
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I've taken numerous rock climbing trips to Norway, but I've just done some easy alpine stuff.
My wife and I went up to Lofoten in 97 and climbed for a couple of weeks. It was really awesome! If you don't mind a 10 hour train ride and a ferry trip to the islands, they are so beautiful. Jagged granite spires coming out of the ocean. We were very jet-lagged but it didn't matter cause of the midnight sun. We climbed "Svolvaer Gjeita" at 2AM. This is a famous route where you jump from one "goat horn" to another to get to the rap anchor. I have Ed Webster's English guide to the islands. It's a pretty good book.
There's some really fun granite cragging right around Oslo. A couple places you can take the subway to do some crack and sport climbing the likes of Pet Wall at Squamish.
Have fun!
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You're assuming I was ever cool.
Your avatar is very cool. Do you have a mullet today?
Shelf Road in February
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
I never thought about Penitente. Wondering how many hours away it is. It's mostly short sport routes there right?