Dulton
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Posts posted by Dulton
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Last weekend I ate a half pound of cheese in under 24 hours!!! It felt soo great
you didn't have to smell the gas man....
Horse Cock
Milky Way (don't get hard when cold)
Lipton Dinners
Idahoan Mashed Potatoes (just add water mmmmm)
Pizza
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i've done 5 routes on rainer including fuhrer finger. i have a partner now for gibraltar ledge this w/e, but that's more technical and probably will require the use of pickets, ice tool and ice axe. how much experience do you have? and are you comfortable with something like that?
I did Gib Ledges last weekend 2-3rd and snow conditions were perfect. We didn't need to protect the exit chute and did't need to use a third tool... in fact our steps might still be there when you get there. Good luck!!
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Four atempts in four weeks?!? Dang, you must be pretty acclimated to 10k, you'd prolly leave us in the dust. I wish I could try for that route again next week, but I work at my church, and Easter weekend is pretty important. That was one of my favorite routes this season, especially the exit chute.
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Climb: Mt. Rainier-Gib Ledges
Date of Climb: 4/2/2004
Trip Report:
Me, my roommate, and Nick (Skyclimb) met at the Summit Haus parking lot in Ashford at 3:45 pm. We said a brief hello and threw all of Nick’s gear in the back of my Jeep and he piled in and we were off. We left the car at 5:00 pm from Paradise under bluebird skies and a clear summit above us. There was a strong Chinook wind blowing from the east when we got onto the snowfield. It was slow going on the snowfield as we slogged under an almost full moon and brilliant stars, we arrived at Muir at 10:45 pm to find Girlclimber already in the hut nice and warm in her sleeping bag (next to her freaky little snowman). Girlcilmber’s team of three left before us and we followed at 4:30am trudging up the long Cowlitz cleaver. As the sun rose we saw the weather moving in from the South and a large lenticular cloud building on the summit, so logically we continued. We unroped and entered the first part of the ledges. We found the ledges to be a spicy mix of rock and snow and a ton of fun exposure. No rockfall to speak of while we were on the ledges, but we heard a huge icefall break loose from the Nisqually Icefall and tumble down the valley. The exit chute was fairly soft snow, and didn't need to be protected, with pre-kicked steps up the 50-degree slope (thanks Hannah). We arrived at the top of Gib Rock only to find we couldn’t see six feet in front of us and the wind began to pick up. Thinking we really didn’t want to descend the ledges and knowing the team in front of us planned to descend Ingraham Direct we followed their pon-tracks squinting in the white-out and spindrift. We finally punctured through the bottom of the clouds to see the Ingraham Glacier flowing down below us. Descending the ID was pretty straight forward and without hazard. We did see a large Serac cut loose next to the cleaver and scream down the mountain submarining in the snow and blasting back out until it came to a halt at the base of Disappointment Cleaver. Came down Cadaver gap (won’t be in shape for much longer) and jumped the shrund at the bottom. Descent back to Muir was uneventful and the descent back to the car was painstakingly slow. We ate at Scale Burger in Elbe (mmmm, gut bombs). All in all it was a great climb on a great route. We were all stoked to have completed the route (we have all been to the summit and weren’t too upset about turning around). One of my favorite routes on Rainier for sure. Pictures to come...
Gear Notes:
Small half-rope
Crampons
Pickets (didn't use)
Screws (didn't bring, didn't need, would if it's icy)
Approach Notes:
Snow was soft on the snowfield, would have been nice to have skis.
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He's not kidding. It IS safer. At least rock climbing is safer than driving a car.
Oh I don't doubt it... its kind of a funny thought (if your morbid like me). To think we have a higher chance of getting in an accident in the car on the way to go climbing rather than getting in an accident while climbing. Would someone please explain this to my girlfriend
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I'll be sticking to climbing; it's safer!
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Sorry dood, hope you get better fast.
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Dang man
... story?? 
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So the weather this weekend is going to be SWEET(especially friday and saturday)
WOOHOO
So what is everyone doing this weekend, I know some people are heading down to Rainier, what else?
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Depending on your comfort level some people like to place running protection on the exit chute (if your comfortable witht he steepness then you might opt not to), but definetaly for the crevasses on the upper mountain. I'm only brining a lighter half-rope.
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Hey there, I'm going to be up on Rainier Fri/Sat possibly attempting Gib Ledges or Ingraham Direct (which ever conditoins permit). It'll be coo to see you up there!
Edit: Bring rope for Gib Leges for the exit chute and the crevasses above.
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hmm, I think you should look again... or at least the site I look at isn't so optomistic
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Way to go Nick
Doncha just love pretending to be bowling pins
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Late May would be awsome. I've never done Furhuer Finger before, but it doesn't sound too bad. Climbing up Gib Ledges wouldn't be too fun with a board strapped to your back. Its a little exposed and your pretty close to the rock... don't wanna get caught or blown off...
I'm over in Ballard (I go to SPU), so it would be really easy to get together and go over all the good stuff. Next week are finals so that might not work, but I'm free after that.
Pen
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I have the BD Positron Keylock and I like it.
As it is made of antimatter, one must constantly take care to avoid contact with ordinary matter.
Great one!! For all the rest out there--positrons are positvely charged friends of electrons--same size, etc., hence the antimatter reference.
ahhh i see
I have a Petzel attache, me like
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Emmons is ok, lots of crevasses except in the corridor
Furher Finger is skiable, I think someone posted a TR earlier this year.
Gib Chute is also skiable..
any others??
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I've been thinking about an ascent via Gib Ledges or Ingraham Direct and then boarding down the Gib Chute route. If conditions are right that would be a sweet ride down. I have 6 summits of Rainier, but have never snowboarded that high on Rainier before. Been snowboarding for 10 years tho. I heard that Mike Gauthier has snowboarded down the Gib Chute, so I know its doable
Skyclimb might be interested too.... -
mmmm meatballs.....
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I know there is a road that supposedly is the start of the hike, I've never been there, but I have traversed accross from Mt. Si to Tenneriffe. The traverse makes for a long day, but its doable.
edit: http://www.wta.org/~wta/cgi-bin/wtaweb.pl?7+tr
Its a great board for hiking conditions too... Go get it!
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yeah it looks to be good come sunday.
This storm is gonna dump a ton of snow up high. Avalanche danger is going to be high until it can consolidate.
NORTH OREGON CASCADES-CASCADES OF LANE COUNTY-
INCLUDING THE CITIES OF...GOVERNMENT CAMP...PARKDALE...DETROIT...
SANTIAM PASS...MCKENZIE PASS...MCKENZIE BRIDGE...WILLAMETTE PASS...
OAKRIDGE
830 PM PST THU MAR 04 2004
.WINTER STORM WARNING NORTH OREGON CASCADES FROM 06 AM FRIDAY
TO 6 AM PST SATURDAY...
.SNOW ADVISORY CASCADES OF LANE COUNTY THROUGH 6 AM SATURDAY -
TONIGHT - BREEZY MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH ISOLATED SHOWERS EARL...RAIN OR
SNOW LIKELY LATE. SNOW LEVEL 3000 FEET RISING TO 3500 FEET
AFTER MIDNIGHT. SNOW ACCUMULATION UP TO 3 INCHES. PASS WINDS WEST 10
TO 20 MPH BECOMING SOUTHWEST 10 MPH.
FRIDAY - RAIN AND SNOW WINDY. SNOW LEVEL NEAR 3500 FEET. SNOW
ACCUMULATION 7 TO 13 INCHES...HEAVIEST NORTH OF MOUNT JEFFERSON. PASS
WINDS BECOMING WEST 15 TO 25 MPH...GUSTS TO 45 MPH HIGHER ELEVATIONS.
FRIDAY NIGHT - SNOW TURNING TO SNOW SHOWERS BREEZY. SNOW LEVEL 2500
FEET. ADDITIONAL SNOW ACCUMULATION 3 TO 5 INCHES WITH STORM TOTALS 8
TO 14 INCHES. PASS WINDS WEST 15 TO 25 MPH DECREASING.
SATURDAY - MOSTLY CLOUDY A CHANCE OF SHOWERS EARLY...THEN A CHANCE
OF RAIN NORTH LATE. SNOW LEVEL 2500 FEET RISING TO 4000 FEET IN THE
AFTERNOON. PASS WINDS SOUTHWEST 10 TO 15 MPH.
SATURDAY NIGHT - RAIN LIKELY WINDY. SNOW LEVEL 5000 FEET RISING TO
6500 FEET AFTER MIDNIGHT. PASS WINDS SOUTHWEST 15 TO 25 MPH WITH
GUSTS TO 45 MPH.
SUNDAY - RAIN LIKELY SNOW LEVEL 5500 FEET RISING TO 6000 FEET IN
THE AFTERNOON.
SUNDAY NIGHT - MOSTLY CLOUDY WITH A CHANCE OF RAIN SNOW LEVEL 8000
FEET.
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Naw, not crap, just winter storm warning.... GO FOR IT!
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check your pm's
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[TR] Nooksack Tower- Nelson/Gerson 4/11/2004
in North Cascades
Posted
SWEET!!
