marcus
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Posts posted by marcus
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Daniel, here's a link on how to post up pictures:
http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/602568/How_to_post_pictures_in_a_trip
Love to see some of those pics of current conditions at BRC!
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"Starvin' Marvin" at Starvation Creek, photo taken yesterday(Bill A). This is a 45m WI4- flow that forms regularly on the cliffs west of Starvation Creek. Belay off tree above, mostly 13cm & 10cm screws plus a bonus shrub to sling off.
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Screws are sold(pending payment)
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SOLD
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Sold to...
1st dibs: Viverr(reply at 11:29am)
If not...
2nd dibs: Ben87(12:13)
3rd up: mthorman(12:18)
4th: Jtodorovich(13:05)
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sold
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bump it up!
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SOLD
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The desert rat turns and starts unloading his cold weather gear...
Swapping out the chilly boots for Chacos!
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Nice work fellas...way to raise the bar up!
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Email sent
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no tight jeans! guess there won't be a seminar in Portland
Mike, is this why you sold off your tight jeans on eBay?
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Sorry to hear about that, Kurt. Lemme know if you need some loaner gear to keep working til things get sorted out.
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Solid work guys on a proud line...way to commit in spicy conditions!
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Anecdotally, my Darts with Sidelocks have had repeated issues with the plastic pull tab handle breaking off. Petzl has been great in helping me replace the bail each time - but I see it as a flawed design for sure.
A Heel Lock replacement kit would be great!
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Tools are in great shape, delivered as promised...thanks nwrider!
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Pm sent
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Interestingly, Diamox is banned by the World Anti-Doping Agency solely because it can mask the detection of performance-enhancing drugs. From the WADA website:
Pros:
prevent detection of banned substances
produce urine excretion to reduce concentration of banned substances
weight loss
Cons:
blood pressure drop
cramps
death
dehydration
dizziness
electrolyte imbalance
headaches
heart failure
kidney failure
muscle cramps
nausea
potassium depletion
volume depletion
Anecdotally, I once took Diamox as a prophylactic measure at altitude but found the side effects were insurmountable. One week later with sufficient acclimatization time, I felt and performed much better without it.
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Supplemental oxygen is a powerful drug with distinct and undeniable performance-enhancing properties. Offering such substances up to clients on high-altitude expeditions only allows and encourages them to climb even further past the envelope of their limited skills sets. This to me seems less than responsible.
As for climbers claiming first or notable ascents using supplemental oxygen: it certainly is cheating by today's standards and should be viewed as such. The fact that most people beyond our community do not and never will understand this fact doesn't negate it. While early ascensionists in the embryonic days of high-altitude mountaineering used supplemental oxygen as a matter of course, to continue to do so into the 21st century only degrades the accomplishments of those who followed in their footsteps, raising the bar and moving our sport into the modern age.
Recreational climbers using supplemental oxygen? The mountains provide an opportunity for each of us to explore parts of ourselves we might not easily access in everyday circumstances. 'Good Style' means different things to different people. But please clean up after yourselves!
MFT can be a real lightning rod with his polemical manner of speaking. But this controversy didn't start with him - so focusing solely on his own actions or spicy choice of words only delays your facing up to the truth.
Deal with it.
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Benjio-
Deepest condolences to all of Nate's family, friends and his brothers & sisters out at TVFR. This is indeed a sad and heavy reminder for everyone to remain always vigilant with their safety systems - at the crags or on the fireground - and to savour each day as a gift to be lived to the fullest.
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Gotta love the Goose!
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'Gato Negro' on the Whine Spire of Silver Star is in fine condition right now. The rock is dry and currently the descent gully is snow filled for easy travel back to the base.
Note: We linked and combined some pitches with a 70m cord, which also proved a useful length on the 2nd rappel.
Enjoy!
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Excellent work John & Jason! Way to take advantage of the extended spell of clear weather and unusually dry winter conditions. A wild getaway weekend for sure...did your boss even know you left town?
Stoked!
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The Mountain Shop does have a heat moulder as well...
Iceland Beta?
in Climber's Board
Posted
Try this: UP-CLIMBING: ice-climbing in Iceland
Kaldakinn is on the NE coast, pretty much as far from Reykjavik as you can get, but is supposed to have the highest concentration of accessible water ice...good luck!