TexWood

Meant to post Rack beta too. Took six screws(med and long), six pins, (2 blades, 2boogs, 2angles), and four med/lg nuts.GEAR PLACED: We ran belays all the way, about three screws/ropelength, and belayed one pitch on rock around the upper icefall. We used all the screws, and place one #3boog and one #5 Metolious nut. Enjoy.

Hopping to clear up yr questions. Ide never been on the mountain before and used the words "Hanging Glacier/North Face" because I thought it would be clear. We followed the route as described by Nelson in Selected. We entered the N. Face at the snout of the Hanging glacier, weaving up through the glacier and some fourth class rock to gain the upper basin/plateau. was referring to the qualities of the ice, and the condition of the glacier/route and approach/descent for this time of year, or its overall difficulty. The angle of slope is mostly 40-50 ice, with short moves on steeper ice to negotiate the cracks, or "alpine" ice 2-3

Completed the Hanging Glacier and N. face on 10.24.02. Decided to skip the summit scramble in favor of begining descent in daylight. Route is in solid grade IV condition. Routefinding through hanging glacier is time consiming but not difficult. Ice is hard, often dinner plating with scattered patches of lovely styrofaom. Descended via. White Salmon glacier is unnerving with more hard dinnerplating, freeze-thaw water ice, and wide crevasses, but is easily passable. No rappel was neccesary to gain the Upper Curtis Glacier Below Hell's Highway. Brush is thick, wet, and at times frozen and slippery. A thrill both ways. Overall, An ecxellent late October climb.