DavidG

Moron. THe sellers friends on capitol hill admitted the stuff was stolen. Jeez, can't you read.

I am interested. I sent you a pm. E-mail me at dgoetz@cgl.ucsf.edu .

Just so you guys don't start scanning the obituaries, be assured that I will be testing 6 and 5mm nylon cord on the ice floss in wet/ icy conditions prior to risking my life to it. That said, even Attitude should be able to see the essential difference between GETTING advice from a mountie instructor (catbirdseat apparently), and GIVING second hand advice without ever actually having direct experience. Although perhaps I'm being too optimistic. I'll revive this thread when the testing is done..... may take a while.

Anyone got any books/ info/ advice for climbing in Thailand? Thanks, Dave

Actually several people did give real world info and overall this thread has been very helpful. Thanks , although your example is not real world info. Here is an example of real world info: "well once my partner and I got off route on my attempt up challenger in late season and realized we had to either descend 2000 feet to get back on or ascend a 75 foot section of ice. My partner started leading up the ice and I stupidly didn't put in an anchor before belaying him. He slipped before getting in any gear and I stopped us from going over the precipice by self arrest (whew!). My 6mm nylon prusiks on our 7.9 mm rope held just fine." Or: " A partner of mine and I had a real epic on a trip because he tried using titan cord for his prusiks. The snow bridge he was on collapsed and the gumby couldn't ascend the rope because his prusiks wouldn't grip very well. I had to rig a Z-pulley to get him up. I nearly threw my back out." Thanks Coopah, Fence-Sitter especially, iceicebaby, and catbirdseat. here is an example of non-real world info: " My mountie instructors always told me that the cord had to be 2mm skinnier than the rope, and that spectra did not work." Get it? Got it? Good!

Ha! Good one dru. So what do you do when a partner of yours proposes to bring a piece of equipment you've never used before (8mm rope)? Of course I am going to try it before the trip, but I'd rather not have to go through the trouble of buying several different diameters of cord for prusiks. Again, the whole 2mm less rule of thumb is just that a rule of thumb. First of all more important than the absolute difference in diameters of the two ropes is the relative diameters (think percentages [thanks coopah]). Finally, while I appreciate the thoughtful and helpful replys (not yours), I was hoping someone might actually be able to give me some real-world info. spray on dru spray on.

Hmm, titan is indeed spectra, but it has a nylon sheath. I figured that would take care of the problems with slipperyness. Well, I guess I'll have to try it and see who is right. So far it seems that the consensus is that it's better to go with 5mm nylon (breaking strength 579 kg) than 7mm nylon (1181 kg) or 5.5mm titan (1818 kg) due to the need to get enough friction on the ultra skinny rope (8 mm). I guess that makes sense from the point of view that the prusiks in a glacier travel situation are not meant to hold a fall per se ; rather, they are meant to hold body weight or at most 2-3 times that (~200kg for me) during the act of hoisting or self rescue. Is that about the gist of it? By the way the numbers are from here ( http://spelean.com.au/BW/TM/BWtechcrd.html ) Thanks

I thought this had been debated at length, but I can't seem to find the relevant thread. I would appreciate thoughts and ideas and links on the following matter: I have a trip coming up with sections of moderate, low angle alpine ice (50 to 60 degrees) and cravasse negotiation. My climbing partner just got some funky new ice floss ( http://www.bluewaterropes.com/dynamicropes/DynamicRopes-8.0mm.htm ). Do I need to go out and get new thinner cord (5.5 mm titan? ) for my prusiks or will my old 7 mm perlon prusiks work fine? Will a fourth wrap with the 7mm cord add enough friction? I've been looking on the web for info, but so far am stymied. Thanks

sent you a message....

Well I just got back from a trip to yosemite. I guess there are advantages to having moved from Seattle to San Francisco. I have to recommend this climb. Sure it is only 5.7 and perhaps beneath some of you pacific northwest hardmen; but for those of us for whom fate has chosen permanent gaper status, it is just the ticket. Don't be frightened by the guidebook's description of the fifteen pitches leading to benighted/frozen climbers found at the top by the next afternoon's first ascentionists. Becky would have given it a car to car time of four hours or so. My climbing partner and I elected to bring a camelback, and four clif bars as provisions. I would suggest an extra liter of water as well. Anything more is going to slow you down too much and make the climb less enjoyable. We also brought a second 60m rope for rappelling. The approach is a killer 100 yards from the parking lot. Be sure to take it easy to conserve your energy for the actual climbing. The first pitch is a fun 5.6 chimney, but it's actually a little sketch because the rock is INCREDIBLY slippery. Tall climbers have the advantage of being able to bear hug and sling a large firmly wedged chockstone soon after leaving the ground. This pitch is probably the second most fun pitch on the climb so enjoy it. The "swinging rope traverse" is actually quite a disappointment. I had visions of running horizontal on a vertical face back and forth to reach some impossibly distant hold across an equally impossibly featureless face. The reality is that you only pendulum about six or seven feet, and if it weren't exposed (last possible grear placement is about 10 feet to the right and ten feet below you at this point) everyone would just climb the 5.9+ face. The rope we pendulumed (is that a word) off of was fixed to the only two non-rap bolts of the entire climb. The most fun pitch is the thirteenth one marked "5.7 steep" in the supertopo. It's a nice right facing vertical handcrack with bomber hands and feet that just eats up gear. Don't wimp out and do the 5.6 variation since it's considerably more of a yawner. Make sure to take a moment and rest at the top because the rappels are actually quite strenuous on this one (12 double rope rappels). You will also likely be in full hot sun on the entire way down. Besides, the views are incredible. Overall, I say this climb is doable by any pair of intermediate climbers who can place gear, set up anchors and is comfortable leading exit38 5.9 :0

I'm looking to get a small set of screws for moderate alpine ice routes. Think routes that may require two to four placements total on 70degree ice. There is a good deal on the BD express screws at rei, but they only come in 10cm and 13cm. Does size matter? BD says that longer isn't neccessarily stronger even when two otherwise identical screws are fully sunk/screwed in. Would 13 cm be a good compromise between versatility and other factors, or should I get a couple of 10's and a couple of 13's? Thanks Dave

I'll stop by

quote: Originally posted by IMAM: Thanks for the info so far. I am leaning towards Frostbite Ridge at this time. How technical is it? I don't own a second tool or ice screws. Are those typically needed on this route? Thanks. I did Frostbite two or three weeks ago. I would recommend a second tool and perhaps ice screws depending on your experience. I am pretty new to ice, and found ~40 degree ice quite interesting without a second tool. Luckily one of our team of three brought one and was able to belay the rest of us up two sections of ice. We found ice right below the rabbit ears (which we could have avoided by trudging up very loose and annoying pumice) and going up from the crater. We did a carry-over and went down sitkum. I agree with everyone else sitkum is boring. It would probably be a good route for a first-timer because of its very non-technical nature. Frostbite however has a little of everything from snow to ice to 3rd class scrambling (fun)! One thing to note is that it is a bit difficult to retreat on the frostbite route. Much better to carry-over. Bring extra slings and a rap ring just in case circumstances require a retreat.