Epic_Eric

I'm the guy who set a poor anchor on Central Pillar and fell 100 feet with my buddy Kurt in 2000. Three anchor pieces and three or four lead pieces came out by shattering the brittle rock. The yellow dots are very close to where we landed. We had a late-June snowfield to break our falls, and we only received broken legs. A friend of mine also ripped a cam on West Face last year and broke a heel bone. I am deeply saddened that these men have lost their lives and that their families and friends will be left to grieve for them. I had hoped that by writing a piece for Climbing (Sept 2002) and spreading the word that climbers would stop risking their lives on this junk pile.

That web page describes the area above the benches. On the cliff before that one, 10a "The Guillotine" has the block at the top; to the left is a FUN 5.8 that starts easy; to the right is 5.9. All have anchor bolts.

Why, why, why, do my friends still go there? To save 3%? Once, years ago, I went to the counter upstairs that the staff was hanging around with a question. When I got to the counter, they all scatterred. I haven't purchased there since.