Michael_V

Looking to possibly Climb this route this weekend. Anyone have information on recent conditions (or even typical conditions at this time of year). I suspect that the bergshrund is wide open. Being that i have not been on this route before, any advice on how to get around it? Can you scramble past on rock. Also... how is the couloir this time of year? Any need for pickets, snow anchors anywhere on the route? Lastly.. climb it in boots or is it hairy enough to necessitate rock shoes and carrying the boots over the ridge. Any information would be very helpful. Thanks. quote: Originally posted by MountainMan: Climbed the W. Ridge of Forbidden yesterday. The W. Ridge Couloir was in PERFECT shape. The bergschrund is opened up quite a bit, but is passable on the left via a 6 foot wide snow bridge. I would give the bergschrund another 2-3 weeks before it's impassable. The ridge proper was mainly simul-climbed .. we protected portions of 2 or 3 pitches. There were dozens of people in Boston Basin on Saturday. The snafflehounds must have been quite busy. One of the parties we encountered had their tent eaten through by one of the infamous little critters. Our tent was untouched. They did eat portions of my blue closed foam pad though. Understandable though, because those are quite tasty.