[Cheap Coils]

I'll give you some cheap coils! Do you want them in

a burning paper bag on your doorstep, or in the center

of your front yard?!

[Why Join American Alpine Club?]

Don't forget about the AAC library and the wealth of

books,maps,accounts of ascents in the AAJ and the fact

that as a member, you can have someone dig up beta, on

just about most routes/most countries. Also, how much

would you have to pay individually for the two books?

And being insured on any peak 6000m and under,anywhere

is a great deal. You also get a phonebook, with all

of the AAC members #'s, so if you need some beta on

freeing the nose in a day, call Lynn Hill. Hell, if you

want a date, call Lynn Hill!

[Steins Pillar TR]

Hey Colin,

 

I believe that is what the Nick Dodge book, that has

a variety of obscure Oregon climbs, wrote in it. I don't

have a copy of the book(they are hard to come by), but

my partner has one. Perhaps Beckey beat Kor to the punch?

There is a suprising amount of "adventure climbing" in

Oregon, on some amazing formations, with ok rock. You

won't wait in line, or have anyone else around, for that

matter, in some amazing wilderness settings.

 

Cheers!

[Steins Pillar TR]

Ha Billy, the "anti-Gu" is just tearing me! As a matter

of fact, we made a full on anti-Twight,onsight loaded

with anti-Gu(real food, that tastes good ie.salami,cheese,

smoked almonds etc..)and although death & doom may have

surrounded us, we never knew it. We climbed slow,without

much style and grace,in the teeth of great conditions

and are not feeling very pompous about it. And that's the

way it was. Word to ya mutha, Billy!

Texplorer, check your PM's.

[Mark Twight in PDX]

You're tearing me up Texplorer!

[July Jokes]

The definition of "relative humidity"?

 

The sweat that gathers on your balls when your screwing

your sister. Oohh!

[Your avatar?]

Plain and simply, I think MT is a total wanker and the

little pic under the avatar fit the autosig nicely.

[Bad News For Alaskan Glaciers]

You mean the "Black Ice Couloir" on the Grand.

[Mt Adams Mazama Glacier permit info?]

Cold Springs & South Climbers TH aren't within the

reservation boundry; you'll have to traverse over to

the route a little more than if you parked at Bird Creek

Meadows, but you won't have to mess with the permit, or

pay any more money than you need to, to climb the mountain.

They make enough money off their casinos.

[Mark Twight in PDX]

Yeah, you guys rule!

[Steins Pillar TR]

July 21st, SB and I drove 16 miles east of Prineville

to this unique 350' pillar protruding out of the dense

forest. Ah, Steins Pillar, a sight that provoked Layton

Kor to drive all the way from Colorado for the second

ascent. The NE face is the original line which was

rated a lll-5.7 A3, is now more a 5.9 A2, due to the

addition of more fixed gear and a couple newer bolts/hangers.

The first pitch is a 5.5x chimney/offwidth for roughly

50'ft. to a nice belay stance in the mouth of a small cave.

The second pitch traverses left for about 70'ft. and

goes at 5.9 A1 (this used to go at loose A3).

This brings you to the top of what's called the "low

black knob".

The third pitch follws a thin seam on small wires, into

a few moves of nailing sawed-off angles into old bolt

holes; at this point, I first encountered what I refered

to as "Ace Hardware Specials". These little gems were

square-head lag bolts(like you would buy at Ace), that

the heads had been bent over to form an eye on the end;

they then proceeded to sink these into old bolt holes,

with the old bolt sleeves in place. Needless to say,

it was a bit concerning how much they flexed, when you

moved up onto them. The third pitch is around 90'ft. of 5.8 A2, onto what is called the "High Black Knob"

What an incredible setting you have from here!

The fourth pitch SB encountered 60'ft. of 5.8 A2, with

a little more nailing sawed-offs into holes and into a

little "Fred Beckey 5.8" and onto a small black ramp. From here you're just towering over this farmers

house and spred, who owns all the land below the pillar.

The fifth and final pitch climbs slightly overhanging

5.9 with old fixed pins as pro, into some of the most

heady A1 (there is such a thing!). Above the fixed pins,

5 in a row of the "Ace" (you don't want to fall on one of

these!)onto stacked pins that flexed more than the

lags and back onto the "Ace" specials to a good belay/rappel

station 10'ft. below the summit. From the top, you have an

incredible view of the Ochoco Mountains and a few other

smaller formations near by. With 2 60m ropes you can rap

150'ft. to the top of the third pitch and then 1 more rap

of 180'ft. to the ground. This is a far superior climb to

the "Monkeys Face", by any route! It is a larger pillar, in

a much more impressive setting!

[Mark Twight in PDX]

I find it hilarious that the Mazamas (a group that

climbs mountains slowly and by seige) would help

promote a guest speaker (Twight-who climbs fast,

with few partners or solo and climbs well); the two

have NOTHING in common.

[Mark Twight in PDX]

I'd do it to help PMR and Climb Axe, but NEVER for

the Mazamas OR Mark Twight. Why don't you get a better

guest speaker, like Julia Childs.

[Greg W]

AlpineK - could you trim me a bonsai tree that looks

just like Scot'teryx and I'll put a neoprene mask

on it and plant it on Piker's Peak(Mt.Adams false

summit).

[Larry The Tool Fucked Up]

Natural selection doesn't always work; that fool

should have been in the cab of the truck when that

happened.

[Mark Twight in PDX]

Yeah, and you can follow the empty GU packages all

the way to the summit.

[Mark Twight in PDX]

All you're going to hear about is how House,Backes

and himself invented the "new alpine style"(ha!)

and try to sell you some GU. I'm sure the slides

are great, it would just be better if it were silent,

or someone else did the talking.