The_Anti-Twight
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Posts posted by The_Anti-Twight
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Don't forget about the AAC library and the wealth of
books,maps,accounts of ascents in the AAJ and the fact
that as a member, you can have someone dig up beta, on
just about most routes/most countries. Also, how much
would you have to pay individually for the two books?
And being insured on any peak 6000m and under,anywhere
is a great deal. You also get a phonebook, with all
of the AAC members #'s, so if you need some beta on
freeing the nose in a day, call Lynn Hill. Hell, if you
want a date, call Lynn Hill!
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Hey Colin,
I believe that is what the Nick Dodge book, that has
a variety of obscure Oregon climbs, wrote in it. I don't
have a copy of the book(they are hard to come by), but
my partner has one. Perhaps Beckey beat Kor to the punch?
There is a suprising amount of "adventure climbing" in
Oregon, on some amazing formations, with ok rock. You
won't wait in line, or have anyone else around, for that
matter, in some amazing wilderness settings.
Cheers!
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Ha Billy, the "anti-Gu" is just tearing me! As a matter
of fact, we made a full on anti-Twight,onsight loaded
with anti-Gu(real food, that tastes good ie.salami,cheese,
smoked almonds etc..)and although death & doom may have
surrounded us, we never knew it. We climbed slow,without
much style and grace,in the teeth of great conditions
and are not feeling very pompous about it. And that's the
way it was. Word to ya mutha, Billy!
Texplorer, check your PM's.
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You're tearing me up Texplorer!
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July Jokes
in Spray
The definition of "relative humidity"?
The sweat that gathers on your balls when your screwing
your sister. Oohh!
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Plain and simply, I think MT is a total wanker and the
little pic under the avatar fit the autosig nicely.
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You mean the "Black Ice Couloir" on the Grand.
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Cold Springs & South Climbers TH aren't within the
reservation boundry; you'll have to traverse over to
the route a little more than if you parked at Bird Creek
Meadows, but you won't have to mess with the permit, or
pay any more money than you need to, to climb the mountain.
They make enough money off their casinos.
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Yeah, you guys rule!
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July 21st, SB and I drove 16 miles east of Prineville
to this unique 350' pillar protruding out of the dense
forest. Ah, Steins Pillar, a sight that provoked Layton
Kor to drive all the way from Colorado for the second
ascent. The NE face is the original line which was
rated a lll-5.7 A3, is now more a 5.9 A2, due to the
addition of more fixed gear and a couple newer bolts/hangers.
The first pitch is a 5.5x chimney/offwidth for roughly
50'ft. to a nice belay stance in the mouth of a small cave.
The second pitch traverses left for about 70'ft. and
goes at 5.9 A1 (this used to go at loose A3).
This brings you to the top of what's called the "low
black knob".
The third pitch follws a thin seam on small wires, into
a few moves of nailing sawed-off angles into old bolt
holes; at this point, I first encountered what I refered
to as "Ace Hardware Specials". These little gems were
square-head lag bolts(like you would buy at Ace), that
the heads had been bent over to form an eye on the end;
they then proceeded to sink these into old bolt holes,
with the old bolt sleeves in place. Needless to say,
it was a bit concerning how much they flexed, when you
moved up onto them. The third pitch is around 90'ft. of 5.8 A2, onto what is called the "High Black Knob"
What an incredible setting you have from here!
The fourth pitch SB encountered 60'ft. of 5.8 A2, with
a little more nailing sawed-offs into holes and into a
little "Fred Beckey 5.8" and onto a small black ramp. From here you're just towering over this farmers
house and spred, who owns all the land below the pillar.
The fifth and final pitch climbs slightly overhanging
5.9 with old fixed pins as pro, into some of the most
heady A1 (there is such a thing!). Above the fixed pins,
5 in a row of the "Ace" (you don't want to fall on one of
these!)onto stacked pins that flexed more than the
lags and back onto the "Ace" specials to a good belay/rappel
station 10'ft. below the summit. From the top, you have an
incredible view of the Ochoco Mountains and a few other
smaller formations near by. With 2 60m ropes you can rap
150'ft. to the top of the third pitch and then 1 more rap
of 180'ft. to the ground. This is a far superior climb to
the "Monkeys Face", by any route! It is a larger pillar, in
a much more impressive setting!
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I find it hilarious that the Mazamas (a group that
climbs mountains slowly and by seige) would help
promote a guest speaker (Twight-who climbs fast,
with few partners or solo and climbs well); the two
have NOTHING in common.
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I'd do it to help PMR and Climb Axe, but NEVER for
the Mazamas OR Mark Twight. Why don't you get a better
guest speaker, like Julia Childs.
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AlpineK - could you trim me a bonsai tree that looks
just like Scot'teryx and I'll put a neoprene mask
on it and plant it on Piker's Peak(Mt.Adams false
summit).
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Natural selection doesn't always work; that fool
should have been in the cab of the truck when that
happened.
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Yeah, and you can follow the empty GU packages all
the way to the summit.
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All you're going to hear about is how House,Backes
and himself invented the "new alpine style"(ha!)
and try to sell you some GU. I'm sure the slides
are great, it would just be better if it were silent,
or someone else did the talking.
Cheap Coils
in The Gear Critic
Posted
I'll give you some cheap coils! Do you want them in
a burning paper bag on your doorstep, or in the center
of your front yard?!