Brian_Moran

Looking to do the North Face of Buckner this weekend. Has anyone been on the route in the last 7 days? If so, how was crossing the Boston Glacier? Was the route melted out? Did you do the face or coulior?

Thanks for all the good info. I am planning 4-5 days. Fast and light are ideal, but for a 32-year-young Midwesterner, who gets to the real mountains once a year, the fast part becomes difficult. Robert's itinerary would be ideal, but maybe a little too ambitious. Although, Sharkfin Tower has always been an option, time permitting. Finishing via a traverse of Forbiddens' East and West ridges to Torment would be a hell of a capstone... Forbidden, then Buckner is a great suggestion as well. Downclimbing the North Face of Buckner was never an option... Thanks again!!! B.

I'm planning a (guided) trip to climb the North Face of Buckner followed-up by an ascent of the Direct E. Ridge of Forbidden (not until end of August). I've never been this area and would appreciate a little info. My idea is to climb Sahale Peak then camp near Boston-Sahale Col. The next morning, we'd climb Buckner from there. What's the best way to get back to camp on the descent? I want to be set up for Forbidden's E. Ridge the following morning. Could we start down the SW route, then veer northwest to a spot on Ripsaw and rap down to the Boston Glacier? I'm climbing with a guide but wouldn't mind some independent beta. Also let me know if this is a hairbrained way to do this, but only if you have a better suggestion.