BillBurning

quote: Originally posted by Jason Martin: I don't mean to be obnoxious but: Potentially Difficult Late Season Conditions + Little real glacier experience + Solo Climbing + A route that has seen both accidents and deaths this year + Twenty-one years old + The inability to look through a guidebook = No Climbing Permit I can't say that I blame the people down at Mt. Rainier for denying a permit. Good for them. Too much bad stuff going on around here this year. Yes, the inability to look through a guidebook? Whatever. The elitist attitude of the "climbing super guide" rears its ugly head. As far as age, I have no idea what that has to do with anything. As far as experience goes, you know nothing about my resume. Before you pass judgement, you should have all the facts. -Bill

quote: Originally posted by Dan Larson: Dude you are scaring me. There is a book called mt. Rainier a Climbing guide by Big Mike Gauthier. It will let you know what is up that coupled with the NPS route conditions would be a good start in picking a route or you could just ask Daniel Patrick and he will let you know the conditions when he climbed it 2 years ago That would be nice except the NPS website only has route conditions for seven routes, none of which we're particularly interested in climbing (except for Liberty Ridge). I was merely seeing what other routes people thought were worthwhile and might be in good condition. And I have Beckey's 1970 something guide... It's up to date right?

Personally, I think it's silly to not allow people to climb what they like, isn't this the backbone of climbing? Didn't Twight say something like climbing is so different than other sports because anyone can walk up to the hardest climbs in the world and attempt them? Anyway, I felt that I had the necessary experience to solo Rainier, and therefore they should have approved my request, but they, obviously decided what was best for ME, which is ultimately wrong. Anyway, I don't know, I believe in personal responsibility, and if you want to go solo some crazy shit, then you should be allowed to regardless of experience. I also believe that they shouldn't have to rescue you if you screw up and get hurt. Also, I only mentioned my experience on Orizaba to point out the fact that I have been at altitudes greater than 14,000 feet, on the NPS application it says, "Please list previous experience on glaciated peaks. Climbs involving glacier travel, altitude, and inclement weather will be viewed with favor." I encountered all of these on Orizaba... Another factor they considered might have been my age, maybe they feel at 21 one doesn't have enough experience. I don't know, I worked as a climbing instructor and am an EMT, but apparently niether of these things matters much. At anyrate, I found a partner for the trip and we'll be up there in a week. I'm psyched, still no one's recommended a route in better condition than Liberty Ridge that has ice climbing... maybe Nisqually(?) ice fall? -Bill

Alright, basically the gist of it was they didn't think I had enough glacier experience to solo, granted, most of my alpine climbing has been here in the San Juans in Colorado, but I have climbed in the cascades and got to around 17,000 feet on the Jamapa glacier on Orizaba solo, apparently this isn't enough. Really, I don't blame them with all the deaths and accidents and whatnot. Anyway, can anyone recommend another route with a significant amount of fun ice climbing that would be in good condition late season? -Bill Owenbrown1@aol.com

I was recently denied my request for a solo permit on Liberty Ridge. I'm kinda relieved actually... Anyway, if anyone's interested in doing a very fast and light ascent of the ridge reply or e-mail me at owenbrown1@aol.com. I'll be in the area from about July 24th through August 10th or so, I'm flexible, but would prefer earlier than later if that works. I hope you're in good shape...