jasonracey

The accident was on the E Face route on Chair Peak. The climbing was easy but the rock quality was poor. I was leading through the rock band on the 4th pitch and slipped, fell about 5 feet, my pro pulled out and then I fell about 15 feet more past the belay ledge. I bounced twice and one of those bounces broke my ankle. We would have rapped down but there were no good anchors on the route, other than the one I fell on. The descent was off the NE Buttress but I couldn't get over to it with a broken ankle. 2 of our party went down that way to call in a rescue. SMR arrived 16 hours later and decided against a rappel due to loose rock and poor anchors on the E Face. They called in a helicopter to pick us up.

The accident was on the E Face route on Chair Peak. The climbing was easy but the rock quality was poor. I was leading through the rock band on the 4th pitch and slipped, fell about 5 feet, my pro pulled out and then I fell about 15 feet more past the belay ledge. I bounced twice and one of those bounces broke my ankle. We would have rapped down but there were no good anchors on the route, other than the one I fell on. The decent was off the NE Buttress but I couldn't get over to it with a broken ankle. 2 of our party went down that way to call in a rescue. SMR arrived 16 hours later and decided against a rappel due to loose rock and poor anchors on the E Face. They called in a helicopter to pick us up. I don't know what John (Angulo) said , but the whole event had nothing to do with a guidebook "misleading" us. The fact is, our alpine climbing experience prevented us from dying from the fall or from hypothermia, or from making the mistake of trying to get me down without help.