Mattp, I am simultaeneously chastened, enlightened, and inspired. How long did it take you to compose that sermon? Dru, thanks for that word; it will quickly become one of my favorites. Dberdinka, thanks for your input. On your trip were you able to scramble / jump / whatever from the glacier to the toe, or did you have to rap / climb into the--er, uh--moat-- and climb up?