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dmcnair

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  1. Anyone have any Wild Country forged friends they'd like to sell? All of mine were stolen recently. I'm particularly interested in the larger sizes 3, 3.5 and 4.
  2. I found a pack with climbing gear on Sunday in the Leavenworth area. If it's yours please contact me at the following email address as I am not a regular member on this board. doug@mcnairhome.com
  3. Mattp, I am simultaeneously chastened, enlightened, and inspired. How long did it take you to compose that sermon? Dru, thanks for that word; it will quickly become one of my favorites. Dberdinka, thanks for your input. On your trip were you able to scramble / jump / whatever from the glacier to the toe, or did you have to rap / climb into the--er, uh--moat-- and climb up?
  4. A friend who climbed this route on the weekend of 7/27/03 told me that getting from the glacier to the buttress toe was very dicey because the lip of the schrund had melted way back and was very thin. He thought it would be impossible to get onto the toe in another week. Anyone been up there since then? Any secret passages?
  5. I would be very interested to hear from anyone who's attempted the NE Buttress of Goode subsequent to July 20 or so. A friend climbed this route on the weekend of the 26th & 27th and reported that getting from the glacier to the buttress toe required traversing an extremely tenuous bit of neve. He thought this part would be melted out in about a week, making the passage from glacier to buttress nearly impossible. Anyone been up there since? Any secret passages? Thanks for your input.
  6. Than you very much for the beta. I'll be curious to see quality of route.
  7. Are any of the pitches on Heart of Gold protected only with bolts, or do all require placing gear? I'll be taking a "sport only" buddy and I was wondering if they could lead some of the pitches.
  8. Bill, Thanks for your reply. Which route did you climb?
  9. We're planning a climb on SW Buttress of S. Early Winter Spire for the weekend of May 30. Anyone climb on SEW or Liberty Bell over the Memorial Day Weekend? Any information on conditions would be appreciated. Any snow on rock? Thanks
  10. I'm going to be in Hamilton, MT over Memorial Day weekend and would like to climb the S. Face of Shoshone Spire on May 25. (5 pitches, to 5.8). I'm 54, have climbed off and on for a long time, and lead to 5.9 trad. Will supply rope and rack if that's an issue. Anyone? douglasmcnair@qwest.net
  11. Yes, south facing. Thanks for info!
  12. Has anyone had a good look at the east facing slopes of Icicle Canyon in the past week? How much snow? How about formations? Any snow / ice free/ How about in canyon bottom. Can't wait.
  13. Has anyone climbed N. Face of Argonaut (the Class 4 route, not the 5.8 Buttress)? I'm interested in how long your approach took and how long it took on the actual climb.
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