randyjgoat

I think one dif. between hiking and climbing is the physical effort that has to be made to go"up", and not fall down.In the Northeast[ yeah ,yeah, say what you want. Here of alot of dead westerners in our "hills" that underestemated them] , Mt.Washington in the "green " seasons is definetly a hike ,unless you are on a tech climb, or the HuntingtonsRavine Headwall trail. Come october/November, it is a full on climb, technical terain or not. All right ,now let's here the ragging on the easterner.

call me an old fashioned trogledyte who wants to stiffle the evolution of our sport, but that is all the more reason I will stay with my leashes. If my tool[ ice axe , comaaaann , not that tool] is placed solid in ice my shoulder would have to dislocate and rip off before I took a fall. Was he even in ice, or was it a hooked rock placement? was it possible for him to get a line from someone else from above? I think the other dude helping could have replaced the draw with another. Easy to say though from behind this computer. Closest thing I've had to that was I was soloing a 3 probably about 80 feet up and the leash on my right hand somehow slipped over my hand , over the top of the tool, and was pinned between the ice and my knuckles. The placement with the right tool was pretty good, the left tool was a real shabby placement into some slush. I forgot how I got my hand back in to the leash, but I'm sure it was pretty ugly from below.

rbw1966,I got a really nice look at Illiniza Sur from our hotel balconey in Latcunga.The clouds opened up for a few minute,and it was like " Where the hell did that come from?" Definetly looks like a beautiful peak.We passed El Altar also,pretty impressive is an understatement.

Eric,I don't remember going to your girlfriends party but it must have been pretty wild hanging out with gnomes. Those little buggers can really party

Hey Gidget,Honestly I mostly succeeded in getting pretty wicked altitude sickness,puking and some wild halucinations/delusions.Witnessed some pretty cool riots down lower.Actually I did make it as far as 19,800 on Chimbo.Probably could have finishe d ,but we got too late of a start.

Hey IIB,another Eastsider.I'll check those out.Any Idea on about how much they go for?

I don't know if I will be able to get new boots for the trip,but if I do I'm open to suggestions.La sportiva Makalus are pretty easy to come by in my area.Is there anything else that could be recommended more?This is with the hope of having only one pair of footware.

Here in the East we are VERY limited to above tree line.Only have it in a few areas.I've ussually tried to get up early and get up high before the get active usually around 9 or 10 when things warm up.Almost better to come back down by headlamp than to deal with them.

Hey Gidget,you're here. Right on.How are the Black flys in your neighbor hood? I just got chased away from some after work bouldering last night.Black flys don't bite,theySUCK!! Alex,yeah I'm trying to go as light as I can.Just kind of limited by budget for new gear.Also want to find out what I really need and what I don't.Some stuff I'm replacing ,some I have to make do.I think the Megamyd is in our plans.

That's cool.I work outside,often in the woods[had 4 ticks today],and am pretty tolerant of moderate bug rage.There is no tolerance when it comes to the feasting black hoarde.What is Maines state bird?....The Black Fly.

Sounds like a good idea to resling those.If for no other reason ,you have a doubt about a piece of gear.Just one more evil thing to have kicking around in the back of your skull when your trying to wrestle with self doubt about a move or a run out.Confidence is key to staying relaxed and focussed,and safe.Then again I have a Chouinard tube chock still slung with perlon from the 80s. Probably should replace that.

Is this the same Elvis thats on the NEICE.com?

Hey another question for you.In the North East our black fly season is still going on ,but slowing down in august.These little[compared to bats I guess]buggers have ruined many a trip for many people.Do you have the same or similar problems in the North West?

Thanks for the quick responses.Most answers are confirming what I figured would be right[or most likely best choice] but every area offers different conditions.I do appreciate all the intellegence[to make up for my own lack of]that I can get. Son of Cave man,the Fleshlite never came to mind ,but if pack weight permits that could be lighter and more entertaining than the deluxe monopoly board I was going to bring.The sharing thing could get a little sticky though.

I'm not at all new to climbing,but I have never climbed in the west before.I've done some mountaineering in Ecuador but that's it for glacier experience.I will be going to Mt.Olympus in eary August.Heading in on the Hoh river trail.My questions are these.What weight[temp.rating ]bag should I bring?Is 20 too much or to little?Will light plastic boots[Koflach Paras],or my leather ice boots[salomon super guides] be too heavy on the glacier?How about using a mid weight hiking boot with strap on crampons,maybe with a super gator?Should I have full on gortex bibs/jacket or lighter weight rain/wind gear?What is the coldest temps I could expect to get on the Blue Glacier?Any thoughts on a Megamid /bivy sack combo[will be 3 people]for Glacier Meadows?Any info will be greatly appreciated.