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JUSTO

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Posts posted by JUSTO

  1. Climbed cya yesterday. It definitely has filled in more since Alpine Dave's photo. The #4 Camalot is key (& the fixed pin helpful) on the lower part. Nice fat ice above. The upper curtain on Amazonia (far left) was a little lean still but filling in. Then free hanging pillars to the right of mentioned climb are about 5 ft from touching down. They would be pretty impressive leads. The winds yesterday made for some COLD climbing! Keep the reports coming!

  2. Tecnica Altitude boots for sale. Size 43.5 (10). $100.00 obo. Great ice climbing boot and in very good condition. Unfortunately, they are 1/2 size to small for me.

     

    (I wasn't able to add a pic, but you can PM with an email & I'll send an image that way)

  3. Climb: Dragontail-North Face

     

    Date of Climb: 4/6/2004

     

    Trip Report:

    Just wanted to give this route a thumbs up and tell folks they should put this on their to do list. Partner and I both agreed it was the best alpine route we've done in the Cascades. Cruxes were grade 3 ice, thin (mostly) and narrow in places with mixed moves thrown in as well. Lower half of the route consisted of this type of climbing interspersed with snowfields. Thanks to the folks last weekend for kicking steps for us. Enjoy!

     

    Some photos are in the gallery.

     

    Gear Notes:

    Small rock rack with with screws.

  4. Scarpa's response regarding Inverno liners:

     

    Justin,

    Thanks for writing. I would suggest handwashing the liners with Woolite,

    and drying thoroughly. Stuff newspaper into the liners, to help soak up the

    moisture, and continue to do this until all the moisture has been soaked up.

    If you have any shoe trees, use them to keep the liners from shrinking. I

    hope that helps.

     

    Cheers, Rob

     

    Robert Kilkenny

    Black Diamond Retail

    2084 E 3900 S

    Salt Lake City, UT 84124

     

    801-278-5533

    801-278-5544 (fax)

     

    robertk@bdel.com

    www.blackdiamondequipment.com

    www.scarpa-us.com

    www.biblertents.com

    www.franklinclimbing.com

  5. Along the same lines...My inners for my Inverno boots are in desperate need of a cleansing. I'm assuming a soap and water treatment would be fine--- but bleach? I've emailed Scarpa and am waiting for a reply, any other suggestions?

  6. Another follow up as of 3-2-04

     

    Moonline-There but very thin @ bottom

    Snowline-Had the most ice of the three/in about 3+ conditions

    2 Low 4 Zero- No ice on the bottom

     

    Nothing but the Breast- 1st approach pitch was thin with better ice above. Upper pitch was in good condition still

     

    Murchison-Great shape. Upper pitch a little wetter than lower stuff.

    Virtual Reality-Lower half is there, but upper is melted out

     

    Panther Falls-Super fun route. Technical climbing for the grade. Make sure to just walk off the top. We chose to try to rap back down to our packs from above..much easier to walk back down.

     

    Weepping Wall-Looked to be all there still, but could tell sun had been hitting it pretty hard.

     

    Polar Circus-Looked beautiful, make sure to take a number the moment you arrive in Banff.

     

    Bourgeau Right-Climbed by another Seattle crew and reported to be in fatter than normal conditions

     

    Enjoy!

  7. That is "The Tube" Jens...short WI5...some may argure 4. What else did you guys do? Anyone drive into the Bridge River?

     

    WI5???? are you on drugs? that was originally rated WI3 and then crept up to 3+ before settling in at easy 4. wave.gif

     

    "The Tube" is just too short to be rated any higher than WI4- (if that). Fun route with easy access!

  8. Alex-

     

    This is the climb that is referred to as "Not Quite a Plum" in your guidebook. Despite its name it is actually a fun outing, especially earlier in the season before it gets covered in snow. Is this the same climb that is referred to as Bryant Buttress Left/Right?

  9. TimL said:

    Not a circus...it was a good time with awesome folks! That place is really cool. Cheers to the folks who put the routes up, they are really good and well protected. The area provides a good opportunity to learn this type of climbing. Also, it seems like the NW would be a great place to open up more mixed climbing both trad and bolted. Really, ice is so scarce, why not open fun mixed lines to maximize what we have? thumbs_up.gif

     

    http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=2744&password=&sort=1&cat=503&page=1

     

    I definitely agree w/TimL regarding local mixed climbing. Since most of us can't spend half the winter in Banff, why not spend weekends doing some mixed stuff locally. It will make you stronger for your next trip and make water ice seem a little easier. Hats off to the folks putting up the lines. thumbs_up.gif

     

    BTW, nice leading TIM!

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