JUSTO
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Posts posted by JUSTO
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Tons of toilet material...most issues spanning 18 years from 1990 to 2008---$25
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Size 10 Scarpa Alpha mountaineering boots---$60
Wall Hauler-seen 3 walls---$25
BD 5 step aiders(1 pair)-used maybe twice---$20
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Climbed cya yesterday. It definitely has filled in more since Alpine Dave's photo. The #4 Camalot is key (& the fixed pin helpful) on the lower part. Nice fat ice above. The upper curtain on Amazonia (far left) was a little lean still but filling in. Then free hanging pillars to the right of mentioned climb are about 5 ft from touching down. They would be pretty impressive leads. The winds yesterday made for some COLD climbing! Keep the reports coming!
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FS---A5 double ledge with fly-$300. Ledge is in good shape.
Will trade for tele or AT skis/bindings (appr. 180 cm)
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I have a A5 double with fly that I'd part with. Send a pm if interested.
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Still looking? Check PM
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Tecnica Altitude boots for sale. Size 43.5 (10). $100.00 obo. Great ice climbing boot and in very good condition. Unfortunately, they are 1/2 size to small for me.
(I wasn't able to add a pic, but you can PM with an email & I'll send an image that way)
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I've got one I'm willing to sell. Located in Seattle
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A5 Double with fly for sale-$500. Has seen 6 walls and in good condition.
Located in Seattle, PM if interested
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Climb: Dragontail-North Face
Date of Climb: 4/6/2004
Trip Report:
Just wanted to give this route a thumbs up and tell folks they should put this on their to do list. Partner and I both agreed it was the best alpine route we've done in the Cascades. Cruxes were grade 3 ice, thin (mostly) and narrow in places with mixed moves thrown in as well. Lower half of the route consisted of this type of climbing interspersed with snowfields. Thanks to the folks last weekend for kicking steps for us. Enjoy!
Some photos are in the gallery.
Gear Notes:
Small rock rack with with screws.
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Scarpa's response regarding Inverno liners:
Justin,
Thanks for writing. I would suggest handwashing the liners with Woolite,
and drying thoroughly. Stuff newspaper into the liners, to help soak up the
moisture, and continue to do this until all the moisture has been soaked up.
If you have any shoe trees, use them to keep the liners from shrinking. I
hope that helps.
Cheers, Rob
Robert Kilkenny
Black Diamond Retail
2084 E 3900 S
Salt Lake City, UT 84124
801-278-5533
801-278-5544 (fax)
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Another follow up as of 3-2-04
Moonline-There but very thin @ bottom
Snowline-Had the most ice of the three/in about 3+ conditions
2 Low 4 Zero- No ice on the bottom
Nothing but the Breast- 1st approach pitch was thin with better ice above. Upper pitch was in good condition still
Murchison-Great shape. Upper pitch a little wetter than lower stuff.
Virtual Reality-Lower half is there, but upper is melted out
Panther Falls-Super fun route. Technical climbing for the grade. Make sure to just walk off the top. We chose to try to rap back down to our packs from above..much easier to walk back down.
Weepping Wall-Looked to be all there still, but could tell sun had been hitting it pretty hard.
Polar Circus-Looked beautiful, make sure to take a number the moment you arrive in Banff.
Bourgeau Right-Climbed by another Seattle crew and reported to be in fatter than normal conditions
Enjoy!
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The route was Midnight Rambler.
http://www.mytelus.com/news/article.do?pageID=news_home&articleID=1527996
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Arcteryx Theta LT Zip Pant for sale. Size medium, cinder gray. Crotch zip to make life easy. Used 3 times and in perfect shape. Retails for $350, yours for only $175.
PM or email @ buschson@flash.net
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What's up with Three Ring Circus? Does that rarely form or is it just that no one climbs that thing?
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Any idea if a new edition of West Coast Ice is in the works? Seems like a lot of new activity has been occuring the last few years.
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Thanks for the conditions report as I am heading up on the 27th. Reports like this are one of the best things about this site. Psyched to get on some BIG BLUE ICE!
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That is "The Tube" Jens...short WI5...some may argure 4. What else did you guys do? Anyone drive into the Bridge River?
WI5???? are you on drugs? that was originally rated WI3 and then crept up to 3+ before settling in at easy 4.
"The Tube" is just too short to be rated any higher than WI4- (if that). Fun route with easy access!
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Thanks for the clarification.
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Alex-
This is the climb that is referred to as "Not Quite a Plum" in your guidebook. Despite its name it is actually a fun outing, especially earlier in the season before it gets covered in snow. Is this the same climb that is referred to as Bryant Buttress Left/Right?
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TimL said:
Not a circus...it was a good time with awesome folks! That place is really cool. Cheers to the folks who put the routes up, they are really good and well protected. The area provides a good opportunity to learn this type of climbing. Also, it seems like the NW would be a great place to open up more mixed climbing both trad and bolted. Really, ice is so scarce, why not open fun mixed lines to maximize what we have?
http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=2744&password=&sort=1&cat=503&page=1
I definitely agree w/TimL regarding local mixed climbing. Since most of us can't spend half the winter in Banff, why not spend weekends doing some mixed stuff locally. It will make you stronger for your next trip and make water ice seem a little easier. Hats off to the folks putting up the lines.
BTW, nice leading TIM!
FS: 5.10 Piton, Mens Size 10
in The Yard Sale
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pm sent