russ
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Posts posted by russ
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imo the last pitch has a 5.9 move, so I'm okay with the overall rating. Pitch 8 isn't 5.9, imo, but a fun pitch and climb nonetheless.
In theory 5.9 is 5.9, but in the real world there's much variation... Grade III is half a day climbing - seems about right for III+ to get back down.
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We were at Pearl Gates two summer ago when a family of 5 or 6 spied us from the top, then worked their way down to us. The large male made a somewhat aggressive move at my buddy, he yelled and waved aggressively back - the goat backed off. It was clear they are very use to people....
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Looks like it blew off the ridge line above, caught up in tree. Broken pole and small tear in the fly, but mostly in good shape.
Email to get it back ( I don't visit this site often).
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Correction: Tacoma Mtneers 13 students,
*not 20th and 21st*
but 27th and 28th.
Come share our ropes!
For anyone concerned... passed a large group that was probably the Tacoma mounties on Sunday. They were near the far end of Riverview, where no one else was...bothering no one. Excellent choice by their leaders.
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Here's another way to go for an approach ski - solves the "which boots" issues.
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-56160431387474_2003_2349038
I bought a pair for my non-skiing girlfriend. They worked fine for tramping around in the snow, then she decided she wanted to ski. I'll sell them for $200.
- Russ
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Knee problems are real & the drive is still going - hire a punk!
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cascadian... go in/out via Teanaway
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original photo of discussion:
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I've still got the photo with colored lines, etc., but lost the site I use to post them from. If I can figure out how to upload photos tonight I'll repost it. If not I can email it to you.
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Does this route go up the chimney to the right, or the flake/crack that angles out left?
Sounds like you're describing the close up rock in the center of the photo. Minute Man (if my memory is correct) is on the buttress on the left in the background.
Route starts on the slab to the left of the larger snow field. I barely made out what I think is the 10b crack, but the roof isn't visible from the photo's angle. With really good imagination (and more than one sip of my beer), I think you barely see the "money hands crack" above the roof that bwrts refers to (lighter grey shield near to top).
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Good link, Mr. Fox. And I see that you and Matt are joined by others in calling the EDK an "overhand knot."
I was glancing through John Long's book on anchors and I'm pretty sure he also refers to this knot as "overhand". There are several anchor/knot books on the market - it would be interesting to see if they are consistant.
As a side comment - a couple of weeks ago on Condorphamine I was planning to try to get my partner comfortable with the EDK/overhand by tying it and having her watch the knot as I rappel down. When the accident happened and I reached the stranded climber, the first comment she made when I started to set up the rappel was "what knot are you going to use?". I quickly abandoned any thought of the EDK and responded with "triple fisherman" - that reassured her enough to continue.
It made me think it through a little more - unless there is obvious, eminent danger of a knot getting stuck, I'm going to go with knot that reassures everyone involved in the rappel. Why add any more strain to the danger of rappeling?
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I few years ago in August my partner I were trying to do the complete car-to-car in 24 hrs. It was a little bigger bite than we could handle
. It became apparent we would have to bivy somewhere, so even though it was only mid-afternoon we choose the ledges where the north ridge joins because there was snow we could melt. Bivy was a driclime shirt and light foil sack. The foil sack lasted a hour or two - still wasn't that bad. I'd induce shivering every hour or so to warm up 
.If your going in August with stable, warm weather I'd bring the lightest bag possible - your liner bag sounds perfect. If any chance of weather add the bivy sack.
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I've got 2 extra rocks collected off the face if you need to touch it as well
. Dang, now you can just pick them up in the valley. -
I guess this is just cc.com or the internet in general, but I'm amazed at the lack of sensitivity to Emily's family and friends in some of these posts.... why not take it to this thread specifically created for open discussion?
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I think the climber only put one rope through the belay device and rappel carabiner.
I don't think this is likely. You would "discover" this mistake as soon as you put weight on the rope. Emily completed the first 10-15 feet of the rappel in full sight of her partner and nothing was noted out of the ordinary. I glanced up and saw her twice as she was coming down - didn't note anything unusual. Let's wait for the final report...........
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I did Rainier via Tahoma Glacier in July 10-12, 2004. At around 10,500 the remaining snow bridges were very weak - didn't think they'd last much longer. Mid-August will probably be fairly complicated...
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No. 4 Chouinard stopper and a piece of cord has been my key ring for many years. Bought several between '75-'79.
No. 5 & 6 were my favorite pieces. I've still got the original perlon cord on some - anyone want to test them?
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My girl friend and I were climbing the route when the accident happened. We went up and got Emily's partner. We were at the large ledge at the top of the 5.4 pitch (p3) and her partner was at the top of the 2nd 5.10b (p6). We're still pretty shook up, so can't comment much right now.
Montypiton - we have a couple more observations to relay for evaluation on the accident report. Send me a private message or email and I'll relay them.
- Russ
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As for all of you that want to quibble over the exact placement of the wilderness boundary - that there was one anywhere in the vicinity tells you how inappropriate it was. Up there you might be able to use that justification for having added a couple of bolts to some otherwise stellar line, but to put up long meandering bolt ladder? Get real, it is an embarassment and a monument to bad judgment no different than Delicate Arch
This thread is somewhat interesting reading, but I have to ask - you can't seriously be comparing climbing issues on Garfield to climbing issues on Delicate Arch? That such an absurd comparison that it minimizes any responsible argument you make.
Btw, for the vast majority climbing is a recreational activity - your "billable rate" isn't a measure of anything real. If you're concerned about the money you could be making instead of maintaining anchors, then go work and quit whining about implied lost income.
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I've used the Castor pants for 2 season, they've quickly become my favorites. The mess covered, zippered knee vents make them really versatile in a wide range of temperatures. Temperatures don't get that low here in the pnw, but I've only used long underwear once with them; yet have used them for spring/summer volcano slogging as well.
Don't see why Mammut decontinued that model.
edit: to answer the question on waterproofness, the Castors are made of DryTech/WB400. Thin stretchy Schoeller combined with WB400 membrane which they call waterproof and wind resistant.
I don't know about waterproof, but they're pretty resistant...
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Mt Baker - via Coleman Glacier is a good starting point
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but take your snowshoe and poles as well...
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How are crevasse rescue skills relevant on a solo climb?
Because you'll know what techniques they're using when they recover your body
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from what we saw on Sunday on the way to Chair, I wouldn't take skis at all until we give considerably more snow
New Routes at Exit 38?
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted · Edited by russ
Anyone know anything about the route to the right of Endless Bliss on the right margin of the main slab? Below and right of EB are 3 routes (10d,12a,11c). Then to the right of these is a line that goes up a right leading ramp to a jug haul above - 5.7/8? After looking back at the rock from the trail, I think the route I'm talking about may go off the top of this one. But we didn't know that at the time, so didn't look up to explore. (the 10c is just to the right of the 7/8.) TIA.
why isn't the photo displayed??