Kevin_Runolfson
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Posts posted by Kevin_Runolfson
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Wow. Nice job. I hiked up there around 2003 or so when I could still drive down the road. It was too run out for me to climb, and now, at age 46 with a family, it would still be too run out if in the original shape. I love to see these older routes get some love and ease the congestion of the local crags (looking at you Index), and making them safer will go a long ways to keeping the route clean and popular.
I went to Darrington over the summer and climbed two routes that had been rrebolted in the past few years (Thank you MattP and others.) It opened up more climbing and i felt so much better above 3/8 stainless than 1/4 rusties. Full respect out to you guys who are cleaning up these old routes and making them safer so the average person can climb them. I don't want to have to be a 5.11 climber to safely climb a 5.10 route. Spice is nice, death is not.
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I appreciate all the advice. Questions about food freezing. Olive oil, peanut butter, honey, etc. How did you deal with it freezing and becoming unusable? What about keeping perishables (frozen meatballs) cold enough to use at 14
I tested out using a frying pan and lid, and so far have baked cookies, cornbread and biscuits. Very easy, and doesn't use a whole lot of fuel. It's more weight, but I really want to make sure my team eats well and has the energy for this climb. fresh baked cookies could be a moral saver some evenings.
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I am starting to plan out my meals for Denali and looking for assistance. Does anyone have a meal plan from their Denali trip they are willing to share? There are three of us on the team, with no food allergies or restrictions. I have the NOLS cookbook, etc, etc. I am trying to avoid recreating the wheel to by getting other meal plans then using those to create ours.
thanks.
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Thanks. I will keep it now that I know a little history. Sold a couple of them, keeping the rest now.
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Wow. amazing picture and it looks like amazing snow. I'm convinced now to bring my skis to at least 14k, and depending on my partners, bring them higher up. Time to start shopping for new skis and boots. It's time I replaced mine anyways, and this gives me a good excuse.
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Late May start. Most likely not skiing the upper mountain. Just using the skis in lieu of snowshoes. Having never been there, not sure if I want to try skiing the upper half. I am thinking about bringing the skis to 14 so I can play on a rest or storm day. Not sure though, bootwise, how to go. Carry my Baruntse's up to 14 and switch over, or use ski boots the whole way up?
As for my ability, I have been resort skiing since I was 5 (mid 40's now), so I can ski almost anything, though no longer nearly as aggressive as I used to be. I no longer like to fall..because...well, it hurts! I will continue to use my skis for mountains around here as my resort set-up is bomber for resorts. What type of race binding do you like?
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Hey all,
I am planning to climb Denali next year and use skis to either 11k or 14k camp. My AT setup is pretty darn old. I am pretty sure I bought them around 2005.
Scarpa Matrix 3-buckle boots (old yellow model)
180cm Volke Mountain Skis https://www.freeheellife.com/170cm-Volkl-Mountain-Unmounted-Skis-Brand-New-p/1011.htm Dimensions are 104/70/92
Dynafit TLT Vertical bindings. No brakes and the old-style leash.
What I like about this set-up is that it is super light. However, it is now about 13 years old, the bindings are loosing their spring and hard to get into, and the skis are very skinny and punch through crust easily, leaving me unable to turn. I mainly use my AT skis to skin up peaks and get down. I don't do a lot of back-country touring. They are mainly to make a 4 hour boot descent into a 30 minute descent.
Any advice for a new setup? There are so many different boots/skis/bindings out there that I figure I would ask around for opinions first.
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Looking for a partner for some aid. Give me a shout.
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Need a partner to climb with this thurs. I'm up for aid, trad, sport or a mountain. Just need to get out. Give me a shout, here or at 425-802-3100
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I was at Smith on Thursday and just admiring the view of the Sister's. Friday and Sat the clouds moved in and they looked ugly. Looks like you had a great day!
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Stupid f**ks!! I cancelled a climb up Glacier peak because of the storm that rolled in. Can't imagine anyone with any clue would be attemting a major peak during this weather. I believe they should be charged for their rescue.
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Looking for one or two more people to join my partner and I up Frostbite Ridge on June 19,20,21. PM me if interested.
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Gaber
We followed a great set of boot steps going up the Butte Dome Route (except for one 100 foot section that was glissaded over), and saved a lot of time by using these.
So, using proper "glissading etiquette" we avoided the up boot tracks and slid down around them.
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Skis cost money and weigh more. My ass is free and already attached.
Seriously, I hiked up with several of my family members, and equiping everyone with skis just wasn't feasible.
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I headed up the Butte Dome Camp route yesterday. Snow starts at 4300 feet and is good all the way to the top. It is about a four mile hike to treeline (4800) this route, but we were the only ones on this route, not another soul. The snow was very firm all the way up, but at about noon it started to soften, and on the way down it really became mush.
Was able to glissade from the top all the way down to treeline. (3400 foot drop in 30 minutes by sliding on our asses! Doesn't get more fun that that!)
I would still recommend crampons and an ice axe on this route, as there are some very steep sections that were ice early in the morning.
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I left one 5.10 climbing shoe at the base of Blackstone rock at exit 32 on 05/28/03. It's tough to climb with only one shoe on.
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A helicopter costs a ton of money. Even if all the ground guys were volunteers, a helicoter runs in the hundreds of dollars per flight hour to operate.
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Anyone know more info on this one? Do they have to pay a portion of the cost for apparent stupidity?
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N98er, going up with my family on June 3rd. Thanks for the offer though. We are looking at Butte Camp route. Any beta on that? Looking at hiking in to camp on June 2nd, playing around in the snow there then on the 3rd summit.
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I'm hiking up the mountain next week and am looking for some beta on the snow. Are snowshoes still needed, or can I just boot it on up?
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Anybody up for some climbing tommorrow day, Index or North Bend area? Give me a shout, either PM or 425-802-3100.
Kevin
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I start work at 7:00 PM, meaning that I have most of the day free (after I wake up around 10:00am) so if anybody wants to hit Exit 38 for a handful of climbs during the day give me a shout.
Kevin
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My goal is by next year to have climbed The Nose, but for this I am going to have learn how to aid climb. I am coming back from a two year climbing hiatus and am just getting back to leading 5.9's, and want to learn to aid. As of yet I have no aid gear (why would I? I don't know how.) but do have a reliable truck and time to learn. If anybody needs an aid route partner, and/or wishes to hit a couple of Yosemite climbs in the next year, give me a shout.
Kevin
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I was up today, however I don't know the names to any of the areas. (First winter here.) Where are the different climbs? I passed one climb about a quarter mile in on the Snow Lake trail up off to the left. The route was covered in about a foot of snow so it was tough to see the ice. Found that a lot of it was still very wet and slushy.
Denali 2022
in Climbing Partners
Posted · Edited by Kevin_Runolfson
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