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Posts posted by klotzy

  1. They have been saying that about the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge and yet a bill has passed Senate mad.gif that would allow drilling and even though the House has removed ANWR drilling from it's budget bill it could still be included in the final version once negotiations begin.


    ANWR Drilling

  2. I hadn't thought of Shuksan, that could be a perfect choice. I also considered Queen Sabe Glacier especially with the little scramble at the end but where are you considering this practice area. Is it on the route? You mentioned an hour away are you thinking over on the Boston Glacier? Thanks for your suggestions.

  3. My only reason for ruling out Baker is that it just might be a bit to big for a first time trip. He is my step son and while we have climbed many times together he has never carried a pack for more than a day and I don't want to overload him with such a physical climb right out of the gate.

  4. I am looking for suggestions on a place to take my 14 year old son who has experience climbing but has never been on a mountain. I am looking for someplace where I can teach him ice axe arrest, crevasse rescue, snow anchors, etc... The problem is that I would like to spend a few days working on that and then summit which is why I have ruled out Baker or Rainer. I have thought about Mt. Daniel, Sahale, or perhaps the Stuart Range but would very much like to here what you have to say. A small technical rock climb is great but would like to have the option to bail at any point. Suggestions of great base camps with various options would be much appreciated.

    Thanks again


  5. I will be travelling in Croatia for about a month this June has anyone been there? Can anyone give me any advice about guide books they have used? Any info regarding Croatia regardless of climbing would be appreciated but am very interested any info regarding climbing in Eastern Europe. Thanks for any help.


  6. I have off Tues, Weds & Thursdays and work nights Fri-Mon (in Seattle by 3pm). All my old partners are 9-5ers it would be great if a weekly thing could be set up. Have vehicle, rack, rope and deep need to climb willing to be a belay slave if I can't follow. Lead 5.8 trad, 5.10 sport. Also drive back and forth between Seattle and Spokane so Vantage or Leavenworth could work as well.

  7. Joseph,

    Out of curiousity I checked this sting to see what people thought regarding my long winded opinion. I agree with you regarding the "access at all cost" statement and I can only say that is not my intention. I would not expect to allow such practices in order to keep the crag open. What I was most trying to get across is when pressed for a stance the AF simply listed a bunch of standards that they adhere to without making specific references to Dishman. What has been going on there is wrong and has never been acceptable practice for the majority of the climbing community. I was hoping that AF would make a clear statement saying as much in an effort to bring some leadership to hear. I do agree that selling your soul by allowing such practices, in exchange for access would be wrong.

    Thank you for your well thought out post.

    cheers, bigdrink.gif


  8. As someone who has quietly read most of the posts regarding Dishman both here as well as www.InlandNWRock.com I offer a modest comment. In all honesty I have never climbed at Dishman though I am relocating to the area so I hope to one day, so my concern is simply as a climber.

    In regards to the clean-up on Sept 26th I offer this:

    -Energy, effort and results are commendable.

    -The discussion and negotiations leading up to the clean-up were poor (based on posts no first hand knowledge)

    -How the clean-up was announced and the tally listed was very aggressive bordering on taunting. Perhaps leading to the quick and hostile response.

    -The initial bolting practices (holds and bolts by cracks), chipping, graffiti, etc... as well as the subsequent rebolting were wrong but the latter was challenged.


    Andy & MattP

    I have always respected the work the AF has done and thank you for your vigilance. As to the WCC I have little knowledge but would be interested in learning more. Regardless anyone who offers up one's time is to be commended. I agree that people need to step aside; it seems that even the both of you have some personal involvement. That is why I encourage you to advise the AF to step in to help address the concerns of the landowners as well as mediate with the climbers involved on all sides. Perhaps with the leadership of the AF and the cooperation of the WCC, Area Climbers and perhaps the Spokane Mountaineers a Spokane Climber Advisory Board (SCAB) could be created? The cost of such a board could be funded by holding a fund raiser with excess proceeds going to make Land Owner approved improvements i.e. Gate or Barrier.

    Of course the creation of such a Board would require the cooperation of all parties involved as well as a temporary ban on all route development/improvement. This would include the obvious bolting, chipping impacts as well as the cleaning of trad lines (established or FA) or removal of any more bolts/holds etc... As for evaluating routes this would be a job for the Board.


    To the AF

    Enough could be said about AF to fill pages of posts so I can only thank you all for your work and shamefully confess that even though I am aware of the importance of your work I have never taken the time to become a member. I hope to rectify that someday.

    I understand the importance of trying to work with all involved and maintain some measure of impartiality but I suggest that a formal statement regarding Dishman specifically is important for all parties concerned. The benefits of a statement from AF directed at Dishman rather than simply listing a set of standards put forth by AF is that everyone involved would know exactly what your organization wanted the end result to be. I assume that you want the people who are involved with the bolting, chipping, etc... to repair or at the very least accept that such practices are inappropriate if for no other reason then the land owner says no. You also want to encourage future climbers involved with a similar conflict to seek dialogue before action. I understand this takes time and I do not presume to tell your organization that closing crags is easy- reopening takes time. Supporting a closing would be the last resort only if necessary to maintain a relationship with the land owner. I feel that regardless of where anyone stands we are all climbers and would prefer to climb rather than not climb. It is clear that the land owner does not want this to continue. I am not suggesting a closure just some oversight and arbitration. The results at Dishman could affect all climbers, especially those dealing with access issues. Again I do not need to be reminding AF that people do talk and other land owners must look unfavorably at what is going on at Dishman.

    To finish I hope the AF takes this into consideration to help resolve the conflicts. Most climbers, my self included do not have the practice or information to resolve this without the experience of an organization like the Access Fund. If you do decided to get more actively involved post a call for help from area climbers I hope that I can apply the commitment to assist.



    Mike Klotz

  9. With the inordinant amount of Spray that goes on through out this site I felt that I should first read the original [TR] before I comment. I think that a certain amount of criticism and advice is extremely important especially in this situation. Regardless of what we may think of their style the fact is they made a huge amount of poor decisions that could of resulted in injury for themselves or another group of climbers/rescuers. One of the number one responsibilities for all climbers, especially in the backcountry is to be self-sufficient. This could have easily escalated into an unneccesary rescue situation. Decisions to climb when "Oh, and we had no damn idea how to get down, other than "its a walk off".

    Could have easily been determined beforehand or resolved with a simple map and compass. Yes we have all been in situations where something happened that resulted in an unexpected epic but in most cases they would be handled because the time was taken to be prepared. In addition, when situations like the mentioned [TR] result in rescue it perpetuates an image of irresponsibility and foolishness that makes all climbers look bad. Yes climbing is risky but the idea is to rely on your teams skills and preparedness to minimize those risks to a level that is acceptable to each climber. While this level of risk may have been acceptable to them it was foolhardy and inexcusable to most.

    As for censoring, I would hope that the moderators would contact Spliffy first in an effort to have in remove some of his harsh language. But I must also agree that in an effort to encourage [TR] you need to control the amount of Spray. But again this [TR] was more of a hey look what I did rather then an informational one. I have read many [TR]s on this site where something went wrong and the climber (to their credit) outlined what they did wrong as well as encouraged comment from the group. It seems that in most cases such introspection only happens when there is an injury.

    This is only my humble opinion feel free to spray away. boxing_smiley.gif

  10. After posting the above I called my friend and got some more info. It has to do with the First Amendement and you using the Wilderness for something other than Recreation. The fee program is set up under the premise that recreational use encures costs that are collected and paid for with the pass. By stating that you are not on the land for recreation you do not have to pay the fee. You are allowed to do this non-recreational (including worship) activity for as long as you like and are allowed to bring equipment including food, tent, sleeping bag,etc to make you more comfortable and can use any mode of transportation (ie climbing) you choose to get through the mountains. Anyway here is a link if you want to check it out www.freeourforests.org/COE.html


    Though I do agree with the post above that talks about earning my pass. When I do use a pass I always volunteer for it. Unfortunately that also perpetuates the bullshit

  11. Another thing a friend of mine did is send in the ticket with a letter stating that I was using the Wilderness as a spritual retreat. According to him the Federal Government can not require a parking pass (or perhaps it can't give a ticket?) if you are using the wilderness for spiritual enlightenment. It is supposed to have something to do with the original designation of "wilderness". I don't want to cause anyone problems but he has done that on a few tickets that we have received and no further action has been taken.

  12. I have a pretty hectic schedule these next few months but I usually find myself with two days off during the week, most times in a row. Would also be able to meet early (I work nights) during the week for some cragging(Index, Leavenworth). Just looking for as many opportunities to climb this spring/summer as possible. With some advanced planning I should be able to arrange some days off to hit some alpline climbs.



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