telemarker
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Steph Abegg will be at Backcountry Essentials in Bellingham on Tuesday Dec. 13th. 7:30 pm for a photo show. http://www.backcountryessentials.net/events/detail/winter_speaker_series_two_highlights_of_summer_2016_bugaboos_nesakwatch_spi
Geeze. I hope this is a three day symposium. Imagine it's impossible for her to pare down which of her photos/region/genre to focus on.
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Great chronology of a personal journey! Thank for sharing and man, those are some fantastic photos! Well done Sol!
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Uhh, what was with that last glacier shot scene? Is it just me, my eyes playing tricks?
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That's the first thing that came to my mind too: Incredible happy homo shuffling.
Jaw dropping photos as usual! Thanks for going on these trips so I don't have to!
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One of the most gentle and understated yet driven climbers I've ever met. She was always so nice. Patient. Happy. Peaceful. She truly was a joy to watch climb. She always climbed with perfect poise and precision. You'd never know she was at her limit until she was flying off the rock.
I always enjoyed running into and talking with her at the crags or in the mountains a few times a year. I am lucky I got to rope in with her a couple times.
I will miss those moments. She will most definitely be missed.
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You should PM Sobo to see how he became an elite e-mountaineer.
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Oh no! Sucks! I've often wondered if such a huge cam could get irretrievably stuck.
Hope you get it back!
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Nicely done Stephan and Jonathan! A midnight start is so hard core. I could never do that.
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Describe it and I'll get it back to you.
John
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Way to pull through. Even mid summer with no snow, why anyone would rapp into that loose gully to avoid the Gendarme and some of the best alpine crack climbing you will ever do juat astounds me. Especially when you can stand there and assess both options in plain sight.
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As is the case with the photos in 99% of TR's I would never recommend the author/photographer quit his/her day job. But Jesus, with your photos, I would highly recommend you quit your day job and shoot more photos to share with the rest of us more often!
Thanks for posting this.
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Response from Mark Shipman. He wanted me to post this for him:
There is clearly an easement, and nobody has the right to keep anybody from climbing there!
Climbers continue to be welcome to climb at Rat Cr. Boulder (often called Hook Cr. Boulder because it is closer to Hook Cr. than Rat Cr.) and I want to know about it if anybody gets hassled.
Thanks!
Mark Shipman.
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Saw the tape as we drove past and wondered what was up.
For a modern climber that chimney is probably the crux of the route. I think I did the route around a year after I started climbing and that was the only part that felt desperate.
Desperate but very well protected. Wonder what went wrong?
Speedy recovery!
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Don't forget about the option of descending via the Sherpa/Argonaut Col back to Mountaineer's Creek. Though longer, there is no gaping schrund and the snowfield is pretty mellow.
Chris Martin and Pete Hirst put out a pretty detailed report about this descent. Kyle Flick and I have done it a couple times too and found it a nice option if you want to approach from the North late Spring/early summer.
Basically, generally just stay on the ridge crest unyil you reach S/A col, after summiting Sherpa. although I think Chris and Pete found a shorter way down into mountaineer's Creek.
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Trip: Snow Creek Wall - Iconoclast-Mary Jane Dihedral-Outer Space
Date: 4/9/2016
Trip Report:
Yet another Spring has sprung in Leavenworth. Funny how that keeps happening. The outdoor scene is alive and thriving. Paddles, pads, skis, tools and crampons, or Rock shoes and rack. Take your pick, or choose multiples for the weekend, it's all available.
Steph Abegg and I chose the rock shoes and rack for a few routes on Snow Creek Wall. We started out intending a warm-up lap on Outer Space, but were a little too late as there was already a small back up on it. So we bee-lined it to Iconoclast.
The crisp air but warm sun made for perfect rubber to granite harmony as we dispatched with the route.
The fun begins on Psychopath:
Steph following Psychopath:
Steph making the long toe reach back into the crack.
Past the difficulties:
The "Soft 5.11" Yellow Wall pitch:
We were pleased as we clambered onto Library Ledge that we were now first in line for the last pitch of Outer Space.
The last hand crack bit to Library Ledge. Very fun climbing and position:
Our second objective was going to be Orbit, but alas, when we hiked down and back to the base, we were behind another party just finishing the first pitch. No worries! That left us with no one on Mary Jane Dihedral. No surprise there.
This brings me to my secret motivation for writing this TR (apart from being an unapologetic narcissist). I wish more people would climb the MJD, to clean it up just a bit more as It's still a bit dirty. It has some very engaging and fun climbing and is a worthy objective on its own! We climbed through the cruxes efficiently and were again on top of SCW in good time.
Here's a photo Steph took of me last year when we climbed it. This is the second of the slab traverse cruxes on the 3rd MJD pitch:
My toes were feeling the Bern by now. We scampered down yet again. Had lunch. Rested. Assessed the crowd situation on Outer Space, and decided to go for it.
We moved steadily up the RPM roof of Outer Space, and then the next pitch. We got to the chicken head pitch which Steph led, only to get behind the last four people on the route.
I was tired and hangry by this point, 6pm having missed the geezer early bird special at the local buffet. To move things along, Steph and I simul climbed the last two pitches of OS, a fun bookend to a stellar spring day in Der!
Steph photo of me on RPM roof:
Top and done:
I was pretty much incapacitated by the time we got back to our cars. The indefatigable Steph, I'm sure, got in a 10 mile run to put a glaze on the day.
The ticks weren't that bad...
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For trade...a pair of T-2 Tele Boots, mondo 29, in good shape. Trade for two six packs of Elysian Spacedust or Sierra Nevada Torpedo's.
I will not ship, but you can meet me in Leavenworth, Wenatchee or Vantage.
John
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You may have a first descent on your hands. I recommend you name the couloir Valhalla.
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Yeah. I'm siding with Water on this one. Definitely more people in that first pic.
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I wonder if in spring run off it can be kayaked?
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If you go there, expect to do lots and lots of repelling. Repel after repel after repel.
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Yo! Weather looks great for some sunny cragging. I'm game for Vantage or Tieton tomorrow Saturday and/or Sunday. I live east of the crest so cannot help you carpool from Seattle.
Let's get out!
John
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Obviously NPR didn't get the memo on the name change.
http://www.npr.org/2016/02/04/465530156/oregons-new-site-to-explore-valhalla
And surprisingly, no mention of CC.Com's planned alcohol fueled expedition to HYPERBOLE CANYON!
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While you're at it Explorer, please solve this mystery: Why the F can't I pump my own gas in Oregon? It's mind boggling how inefficient and highly annoying this system is (as I sit here idling waiting to fill my car up).
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Can we send Ivan?
New Frenchman Coulee (Vantage) guidebook? When?
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
Marc Dilley
If they're in the Feathers, the new unpublished routes are probably between 5.8 and 5.9+.