Posts posted by sverdina
Seeking recent beta re. roads used to access the NW Ridge of Vayu. The peak is accessed via Jamie Creek FSR. Jamie is accessed via the Hurley and Bridge FSRs. Any additional info as to the approach and conditions assuming anyone knows is also appreciated. Cheers!
I drive but need partner for climb of Upper Exum route. Pls send PM if interested.
LMAO!!! I love it! Finally!!
Sorry, I must be a bit slow. I assume that's the Canadian Alpine Journal?
Where in that exactly would I find the info I'm after?
Does anyone have any beta concerning the shorter approach alternative via Radium? How long/far from car to hut? Where's the trailhead exactly. Fees if any? Any other details appreciated.
I found reasonable cell coverage from the summits for Challenger and Triumph, although in both cases I had to force the phone to analog mode (Verizon). ;-)
Now that I've changed to ATT, I find coverage in general to be far inferior to Verizon and in areas other than the I5/I90 corridors it's pretty much worthless. I second Josh's advice - the b/c is no place for an iPhone or similar phones. If you must get an ATT iPhone, also get a cheapo off of Craigslist and pop the SIM card in it before you head out.
Not sure if you've got anything lined up yet, but I have roughly the same time window open. Ideally Dec. 26 - 31...and was considering a trip to Rogers Pass. Let me know if interested.
Any update on potential openings for Mystery Creek Road? Dberdinka, where do you look to find info on road status?
Looking for info concerning the approach to Wedge. Is the road to TH snow free at this point? I'm assuming the road is still passable...no washouts and such??
Trail to PCT is in reasonable shape. Some blowdown and one annoying boulder-hopping creek crossing and that's about it. Mostly clear after Mackinaw Shelter. A crew had successfuly cleared the blowdown along the Pilot Ridge trail and was making good progress removing the logs lying across the NF Sauk Trail while we were up on Glacier the first week in Aug...not sure how much farther they got since then as one of the guys apparently blew his knee out trying to lift a log (they gave me a ride back to the car on my way out).
Based on the photo (#2) of the approach to Horseshoe Basin, I'm guessing that the first photo is taken somewhere on Buckner?? Perhaps that obvious ridge/buttress right of the Davenport? Ripsaw Ridge?
My climbing boots have been soaking for well over a month now without a prayer of drying till next summer. Is there any chance I can do this in my Crocs?
Attempted JPG May 9 - 10. Conditions were fantastic then, at least up to the saddle before the ridge portion of the route. Called it off due to unsufficient time (bad weather early on).
Anyway, we were stopped by snow about a half mile shy of the trailhead then - I'm sure it's all gone now. Found the 'schrund to be in so-so condition considering time of year. We easily passed it at far left beneath Mohler Tooth over a partially collapsed, but frozen bridge. Steep snow at far right also seemed like it'd go if it came to that. I'd expect to be forced onto rock by now. From what we could see, the ridge was well plastered with rime - same goes for the summit pinnacle (no rock showing).
Correct...HLP is dead center. I wasn't clear, but I was only referring to the background peaks - the same as seen in Carolyn's photo. However, I think you're right in stating that Sibley Pass lies to the right (not left) of the snowy peak I initially identified as HLP. The trail must come up from the other side. In that case, Hidden Lake itself must lie directly beneath the smaller looking point just left of HLP (probably the one with lookout on top).
Ahh...good eye Phil! Yep, that's HLP at right with Sibley Pass below to the left. Photo taken from Boston Basin Trail...and I even have the exact same shot. DOH!
1. Mt. Baker's Heliotrope Ridge w/ Black Buttes visible just left of center.
2. Mt. Baker w/ Coleman Glacier icefall & Headwall beyond.
3. St. Helens from Johnston Ridge Observatory.
4. Mt. Adams from south?? (compare with: http://noether.uoregon.edu/~ptallen/Trips/GP/GP-Thumbnails/3.jpg)
5. Snoqualmie Mountain (far left), Red Mountain and Kendal Peak (center) and Guye Peak lower right. Photo probably taken from near The Tooth or Chair Peak.
6. Beats the shit outta me...good luck! Hidden Lake Peaks at right with Sibley Pass below to the left. Photo taken from Boston Basin Trail
Posting pics per Bala's request...
also, curious what the feasibility of rapping in to S Basin, traversing over beneath Pineapple Pass and back over into Great Scott Bowl is. Briefly enterained the notion as an alternative to rapping the N-side, but decided against it on account of the unknown.
Just noticed this thread. The photo is mine, shot from West Peak, and after looking at the map, I believe you're right Fairweather. That is not Mt. Queets. The park map as a couple unlabled white patches (glaciers) slightly off to the SSW of the West Peak...I belive that's the direction the pic is looking towards.
Ok, ok...I s'pose I'll chime in too.
Pretty much second what Phil and Slappy said, though "skiing" the split halfs can be a terrifying experience on your first attempt - it does get easier with practice. It is also a necessary skill to expedite those many miles of snowy logging roads...and knowing how to snowplow is KEY to surviving the short steep bits.
AT boots and plate bindings are preferred on longer tours and/or those involving difficult or variable terrain...better edge control, step kicking, skinning, less fatigue etc. Yeh, if you prefer softies and staps like me, they're kinda funky for the ride down, but you can dial em in a bit to simulate a soft-like feel (I keep the back foot loose (fwd lean) and crank-down the front). Any cheap-o AT boot will do really; no need to splurge on high-end ski boots only to ride sideways.
Given the choice, and when conditions warrant, however, I prefer to just use the softies and straps...typically mid-winter day-trips, when there's nothing but deep fluff everywhere. No AT boot/plate binding will ever come close to that forgiving yet controlled soft/strap feel IMO.
Oh, and the '73 is too long and handles like a damn Caddy...especially on low-angled terrain and in the trees. Unless you're like 6'5" and weigh 250lbs, the '66 will do you fine...just set the stance waay back.
...and what's the deal with Burton's '06 splits? Looks like they've deferred the mounting system to Voile (split kit), but do they honestly expect you to start drilling holes in an $800 blank?
Corrections ( i think):
(2). Whatcom & Challenger Glacier from somewhere north of Easy Ridge.
(3). Eldo from Austera Ridge
(4). Chimney Rock from Tank Lakes
(5). Challenger from Wiley Ridge
(6). S. Pickets from above Access Ck.
(7). Same shot as 2
(9). Eldo (far left), Dorado Needle and McAllister Glacier from Austera Ridge/summit
(10). North Butt/NE Face Fury from Wiley Ridge
(11). Klawatti Pk (right), Klawatti Glacier and Forbidden Pk from Austera Ridge
(15). Snowfield Pk. and Neve Glacier Colonial-Neve Col
(16). Willis Wall, Liberty Ridge, Ptarmigan Ridge
(18). Forbidden from Kamp Klawatti
(19). Same as 4
(21). False summit Luna Pk.
(23). McAllister Glacier and Backbone Ridge from Austera summit
(24). same as 2 & 7
(25). Northern half of N Pickets
(28). NE Face Eldo
(29). S. Pickets from NE Ridge Triumph or Thornton Pk?
(30). right to left - eldo, klawatti, Austera, primus, tricouni from Triumph or Thornton Pk?
N. Hozomeen 07/06-07/07
in Climbing Partners
Looking for a partner for N. Hozomeen this weekend (Sunday). Trailhead bivy on Sat and day trip on Sunday. If interested please contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org