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payaso

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    South American climber forum

    in Spray

    Posted

    I had a pretty mediocre experience with a guide back in 97 on Cotopaxi. It was my first big mountain and I didn't know what I was doing or what I was in for. The guide didn't show a lot of enthusiasm, but I guess if you slog up that thing every week I can't blame him. It only cost about $100 for the two days. the prices in Peru and Bolivia sound a bit pricier. In Ecuador, it was worth it because arranging the transportation to and from would have cost like $40, and would have been difficult to get when you were ready to go. I don't feel like I need a guide so much these days, but if the price were right, it could be worth it for more reasons than simply finding the summit. If I go down there I might try and hook up with other climbers down there. [Wink]

    Oldest summit register

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    There was a post on here a while back about the removal of the registers. Anyone know anything about this? I've noticed some are conspicuously missing. On the top of Kangaroo Temple the other day there was a green cable with no register attached anymore. I can't see the logic behind any systematic removal, I kind of like the tradition myself. Is it sponsored removal by the park service or the freddies, or is it some puritan luddite movement to "clean" the summits? [Wazzup]

    I NEED A ROOMMATE!!!!!!!! (In Seattle)

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    What the hell, someone on this board must need a place to sleep [sleep] when they're not climbing or spraying. [Moon]

    The Details....

    Rent=$400 + 1/2 utilities [smile] (Cheap!)

    House= small older 2 bedroom in Seattle's Central District (near Madrona, Madison), you get downstairs bedroom and corner space for computer, etc. House has Washer and Dryer, and a yard. Send me a PM for details... [Cool][big Drink]

    WTF -Alpine Skateboarding

    in Spray

    Posted

    REI now has a whole section devoted to that kind of shit. They even have "trail" roller blades these days. There will be a whole new record book on first descents with these things. How about a first descent of the Tooth on a mountain board?

    While it's tragic about the accident, I personally would never trust something that I couldn't stop (duh)! Give me a mountain bike any day

    Glacier Floss Question?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    So did I buy something I have no business owning? I intend on this being a rope that I carry for general mountaineering (glacier travel, 3-4 people on rope, occasional need to rappel, belay, and possibly occasional need to ascend / traverse a rock pitch. I do not intend on going out and buying another one to have a "set" of twin ropes. The salesman really recommended this for what I wanted. I imagine that if I intended to be doing more vertical pursuits that I would indeed need two of these ropes. For what I want though, perhaps this will work fine, or am I crazy to even think about using a single twin rope for this purpose?

    Glacier Floss Question?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Dru:

    if you fell on a single strand of that you could deck out on the crevasse bottom from the stretch!

    Hmmm, you lost me there Dru. The stretch on my 60m x 10.5mm rock rope would probably be similar if I were to haul it up for a glacier crossing, and I punched through into a crevasse. Do you use a static rope on glaciers?

    Glacier Floss Question?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    So I just went out and bought this sweet little Bluewater 8mm x 37m dry rope that they call Ice Floss. I didn't look too closely at the UIAA specs when I bought it, but last night I noticed that it is marked as a "twin" rope. It states that to be used in a belay that you need two of them. Obviously this is marketed as a Glacier rope for it's size and weight, but there are times that I would need to use a belay on a Glacier climb. What if there is like a half pitch on rock or something like that? Maybe a very short rappel? I am a little confused because they are pretty careful about making it clear that a twin rope is to be used in pairs. [Wazzup]

    The Stupidest Thing You've Ever Heard Climbing

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Not climbing oriented, but when I used to drive tours all over I would get some pretty fucking dumb questions!

     

    In Canada (Rockies): "Who plants all these trees?" Asked by a Brit.

    At Lake Powell: "Is it low tide?"

    At the Grand Canyon: Me; "Showers are $1 for 5 minutes." Them; "How long is a 5 minute shower?" Me; "Oh, somewhere between 4 and 6 minutes." total deadpan, they never got it. [laf]

    Rainier Ice Caves rock!

    in Mount Rainier NP

    Posted

    The book Challenge of Rainier is a little old. What side of the crater is the entrance to the caves? With any luck I'll be up there this weekend coming up the Emmons. I won't have any special equipment with me, can I go down in there a little bit. Or is this unreasonable. In other words, do you have to lower yourself down into them with ropes?

    The hard line at Return Every Item

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    [Wazzup] Take those bozos to the cleaners! That tent is well within your legitimate rights to get some new poles! I think they have some real boy scout types working back there that get tired of seeing all the shit come back. Never mind the fact that the loose return policy is why most people buy that stuff there to begin with. A couple years back I had some fleece pants go split on me and I took them up there. I got the boy scout type and they asked what I had done with them. I said I wore them while snowboarding. She instantly huffed some crap about these not being designed for snowboarding or whatever. Like I'm supposed to have different fleece pants for boarding, skiing, x country skiing, driving back from ski area, sitting at base camp, approaching base camp, climbing from base camp, walking to work on snowy day, etc. They'd love that wouldn't they. I can't wait to see the look on their face when I return my NW Forest pass next year after it stops working. [laf]

    The Stupidest Thing You've Ever Heard Climbing

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Coming down from the summit pyramid on Shuksan last year, there was a group descending the main gully everyone seems to use ahead of us. The weather was getting pretty ugly, and the winds were loud and strong. They had set up a rappel for at least a portion of the gulley. I was waiting for them til they were out of the way when I saw one of them as they were prepared to begin their rappel. He turned and spoke (not yelled) in an inaudible voice to those at the bottom, and said "rapping." First of all no one would have heard him, and secondly what the hell does "rapping" mean? I expected him to start breakdancing or something [rockband]

    rope marking - it's back

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    "The test

    results have shown a decrease of up to 50% of the rope strength"

     

    [Wazzup] "It is not possible for the UIAA Safety Commission to test all markers that are commercially available and can be used for marking

    ropes. "

     

    So why don't they at least tell us what markers or conditions caused the 50% failure? WTF???? How could the amount of ink in a Sharpie on the outside of your rope weaken it? Maybe they used nail polish remover or something. [hell no]

    Bad experiences on the yard sale?

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    I did one deal and it went really smooth as well. It was someone in Colorado. An idea for this BB could be to incorporate a users rating so that if someone takes the money and runs, they will at least be blackballed from the site, similar to ebay but maybe less formal. Probably the best bet is to put something on ebay, then put the link here. That way you let ebay deal with all the legal mumbo jumbo and ratings.

    Flying stoves

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    You could try and distract the airline attendants by filling your pack with razors and ticking clocks and such. They may overlook the fuel bottles then. Seriously though, I've read that they won't allow a fuel bottle if its ever been used before but have never had anyone call me on it. Just don't volunteer any info, and wrap the thing with your underwear.

    Mt Olympus in a day

    in Olympic Peninsula

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Pencil Pusher:

    Anyone interested? Take the blue pill and turn on the Tikka.

    pencil_pusher@hotmail.com

    [Wazzup] Huh? Viagra? Valium? I guess I don't get out much anymore but what "pill" would you be talking about there Pusher? [Wazzup]

    Personally I would rather take as long to climb Olympus as possible. One of my goals is to climb Olympus while doing the entire Bailey Range traverse. Maybe about 8 days or so? I haven't researched it too closely yet, but I think that would be a real epic. [big Drink]

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