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Posts posted by Cobra

  1. That's horrible. I saw Kai last summer: cheery guide having fun likely trying to fund his trips. I'm glad to see there is one positive outcome to it hearing that he is safe.


    I guess even the late Alex Lowe almost was buried in a large avalanche there himself once.


    First hand word is that this time of year is optimum for colder snow\ice conditions but also makes the necessary factor for more avalanches on monumental proportions.


    I'm sure these two were calculating the shit weather, climbing fast, probable during the "safest" window of time they thought they could do it in and just may have just been unlucky with the roll of the dice. Maybe we will never know but god rest their souls and I admire their courage and efforts to attempt such a daring climb. I hope if someone attempts it in the future they don't meet the same fate.


    Off the subject but Kai has some nice shots of Astroman in the latest edition of Gripped.

  2. toptimmy said:

    I have only been taught the very basics belay,foot placements,hand placements all done indoors.I went with private lessons at stone gardens A year ago.I have spent alot of time in the mountains around here and lived in Mt. Shasta area for about 5 years, mostly solo trips up(not to the top) and around the mountain and climbing by myself around castle crags.I am interested in instruction geared more towards Alpine rock if that makes any sense.


    Determine exactly what you want to learn by looking through books.


    Then go and hire a rock guide OR carry lots of ragweed and olympia 12 packs and seek out climbing mentors. Ask your guide or ragweed climbing mentor to show you a few things.

  3. chucK said:

    Cobra said:

    toptimmy said:

    this is the best yet.I could be A belay slave that provides beer.


    Best and cheapest way to learn for most people.


    Only "best" if your goal is to become a belay slave. Only "cheapest" if you find "instructors" who are lightweights. wave.gif


    If and if and if. Pot is cheaper than beer anyway.


    You're too cool for the rest of us. yellowsleep.gif

  4. salbrecher said:

    Speaking of which...

    Self arrsest with crampons on sucks madgo_ron.gif. I once fell in the shucksan gully on the south side with crampons on, I kept my feet off the ground for a few seconds but then the shit really hit the fan when they hit and it was cartwheels the rest of the way for me! I don't reccomend trying this hellno3d.gif .


    I guess every situation can be different. I was glad to have my crampons on when my partner fell with great speed a few years back pulling me a distance as well. The rope burns were not that bad but it was only him and I on the rope and took a lot of force to arrest the both of us.


    Maybe it's like boxing. Some people can take a punch better than others.

  5. One of the first things you may do after yelling off belay when leading a pitch might be to identify where the rope's gonna go. You'll be limited sometimes by the terrain where you set the belay obviously. As you gain more experience you may already have this idea in mind once in a while.


    Using cracks, ledges, over your legs, shoulders, over the rope you may be tied into the belay with are all good ideas and some of them are too detailed for me to sit and explain pros and cons.


    On some stance belays where there's not a good ledge I might coil it over my feet.


    The key to me seems to be that you need to coil it with the intention your partner is going to lead the next pitch many times. The more attention you pay to the rope management at the belay the quicker you'll be able to dispose of routes and the less epics you'll have. I think it's one of the best skills to work at.


    Just think of it like folding clothes for your mother and you don't want her pissed if you do it wrong. It doesn't have to appear pretty but just be organized.


    Think of everything as a cycle for each pitch and make sure you include the step where you want your rope to go before you start telling your partner to follow.


    If all else fails and everything sucks and there's nowhere to put your rope just have an epic and think about what you could have done later on. My guess is that you'd be able to figure out some ideas that would have worked once on flat ground bigdrink.gif


    I own a rope bag but only use it for aid climbing and sometimes not even then. I don't think they are a necessity for 95% of free climbing including hook gadgets etc. However if you really like to organize like that and find it works well for you then go for it.


    Just remember there are no rules in climbing as long as you get back home safe and don't hurt anyone else. wave.gif

  6. Mounties' attitude needs a re-arrangment. They think they own the mountains and everyone has to abide by their silly rules even if they are not with their groups.


    What I usually do is things they might consider dangerous or improper each time I encounter them. I like telling them to fuck off if they start nagging me. It's good to let them know they don't rule the mountains like they think they often do.


    One good thing is they are easy to spot and avoid.


    Often the mountaineers are more dangerous than other groups out there. They appear to have the head up the ass syndrome.


    There are some cool mounties but not many.


    For those that want to defend their status of incorporating safety to new climbers and teaching them properly I say that's a double edged sword. Yes they can teach things but that only encourages people that are complete morons to be out in dangerous situations dropping helmets and water bottles down the mountainside at their partners. hahaha.gif

  7. JoshK said:

    Still no reason to be a dick. Take care, man. wave.gif


    I believe some of the replies seemed somewhat condescending. Especially the "this winter" and log deal. I wasn't too concerned about what it was like last spring either. I beleive I was more concerned if the snowmelt had been so much that the log crossing might be scary and dangerous if you fell into the water or even if the water was so high it might cover the log partially.. Also some comments seemed genuine. It's pretty obvious to me.

  8. Some climbers are the biggest losers.


    It's funny how some of them glamorize living like a bum without a life and never having money. Or even leaching off someone else or parents. It's pathetic.


    Being a climbing bum rarely will pay your bills when you are 50 or 60.


    Pipe dreamers are REAL intelligent.

  9. I climbed the couloirs yesterday after skiing in the previous day and walked out today.


    I left a pin after entrance to the 3rd couloir. Someone might like it for belay on the left rocks.


    Still ok shape.


    I have climbed it before. It still is a nice route. It took me 3 days with driving.

  10. Most of you anti war folks DENY truths and facts.


    Good thing the government doesn't.


    Let's kick some more ass tonight. I pray they kill Saddam and all of his supporters and related terrorists every night before I go to bed.


    The war is here. Let's win.


    If some of these people had Hitler's clone running Iraq they'd try to make peace. What a bunch of bullshit.


    Thanks to our troops and kick some ass!

  11. allison said:

    Cobra said:


    Go to Iraq and see how much power being a woman gets you. End of discussion.



    Um, I don't have to leave my desk to have my opinion quashed based on my gender. Now why don't you try answering my question.


    Sisu, interesting response.


    allison I dont know who you are but I dont feel and urge to respond to an uneducated woman that brings off the subject thoughts in here.


    Now get on subject or get lost.

  12. Alan said:

    No kidding. I'm afraid Bush just made this world a much scarier place for everyone. If there really is a threat to world peace and security, his name is Bush. At least he sacrificed the world to make his daddy proud. One should always honour your parents.


    A pitiful argument to rebutt the truth.


    Hezbollah and likes of them already declared holy war....