Cobra

I want my gorilla chestbeater sticker too.

That's horrible. I saw Kai last summer: cheery guide having fun likely trying to fund his trips. I'm glad to see there is one positive outcome to it hearing that he is safe. I guess even the late Alex Lowe almost was buried in a large avalanche there himself once. First hand word is that this time of year is optimum for colder snow\ice conditions but also makes the necessary factor for more avalanches on monumental proportions. I'm sure these two were calculating the shit weather, climbing fast, probable during the "safest" window of time they thought they could do it in and just may have just been unlucky with the roll of the dice. Maybe we will never know but god rest their souls and I admire their courage and efforts to attempt such a daring climb. I hope if someone attempts it in the future they don't meet the same fate. Off the subject but Kai has some nice shots of Astroman in the latest edition of Gripped.

Determine exactly what you want to learn by looking through books. Then go and hire a rock guide OR carry lots of ragweed and olympia 12 packs and seek out climbing mentors. Ask your guide or ragweed climbing mentor to show you a few things.

Depends on the lightweight. Ragweed is for welfare recipients

Best and cheapest way to learn for most people. Only "best" if your goal is to become a belay slave. Only "cheapest" if you find "instructors" who are lightweights. If and if and if. Pot is cheaper than beer anyway. You're too cool for the rest of us.

I guess every situation can be different. I was glad to have my crampons on when my partner fell with great speed a few years back pulling me a distance as well. The rope burns were not that bad but it was only him and I on the rope and took a lot of force to arrest the both of us. Maybe it's like boxing. Some people can take a punch better than others.

Best and cheapest way to learn for most people.

One of the first things you may do after yelling off belay when leading a pitch might be to identify where the rope's gonna go. You'll be limited sometimes by the terrain where you set the belay obviously. As you gain more experience you may already have this idea in mind once in a while. Using cracks, ledges, over your legs, shoulders, over the rope you may be tied into the belay with are all good ideas and some of them are too detailed for me to sit and explain pros and cons. On some stance belays where there's not a good ledge I might coil it over my feet. The key to me seems to be that you need to coil it with the intention your partner is going to lead the next pitch many times. The more attention you pay to the rope management at the belay the quicker you'll be able to dispose of routes and the less epics you'll have. I think it's one of the best skills to work at. Just think of it like folding clothes for your mother and you don't want her pissed if you do it wrong. It doesn't have to appear pretty but just be organized. Think of everything as a cycle for each pitch and make sure you include the step where you want your rope to go before you start telling your partner to follow. If all else fails and everything sucks and there's nowhere to put your rope just have an epic and think about what you could have done later on. My guess is that you'd be able to figure out some ideas that would have worked once on flat ground I own a rope bag but only use it for aid climbing and sometimes not even then. I don't think they are a necessity for 95% of free climbing including hook gadgets etc. However if you really like to organize like that and find it works well for you then go for it. Just remember there are no rules in climbing as long as you get back home safe and don't hurt anyone else.

Mounties' attitude needs a re-arrangment. They think they own the mountains and everyone has to abide by their silly rules even if they are not with their groups. What I usually do is things they might consider dangerous or improper each time I encounter them. I like telling them to fuck off if they start nagging me. It's good to let them know they don't rule the mountains like they think they often do. One good thing is they are easy to spot and avoid. Often the mountaineers are more dangerous than other groups out there. They appear to have the head up the ass syndrome. There are some cool mounties but not many. For those that want to defend their status of incorporating safety to new climbers and teaching them properly I say that's a double edged sword. Yes they can teach things but that only encourages people that are complete morons to be out in dangerous situations dropping helmets and water bottles down the mountainside at their partners.

Being a troll is fun. I'll be hanging out under the log this summer charging a fee to cross the river.

Group hug

I believe some of the replies seemed somewhat condescending. Especially the "this winter" and log deal. I wasn't too concerned about what it was like last spring either. I beleive I was more concerned if the snowmelt had been so much that the log crossing might be scary and dangerous if you fell into the water or even if the water was so high it might cover the log partially.. Also some comments seemed genuine. It's pretty obvious to me.

It's not advice worth noting if they have not been up there "lately" now is it?

Do you feel better now? Would it be preferred if I wrote a 20 page essay about it instead?