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robert

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Posts posted by robert

  1. You should look into their credit card. $350 in free gear this year is pretty sweet considering I only spent about $75 on non-sale items this year. Althought the places where you could use in on Waldron are probably somewhat limited. I am sure that you get to Orcas every once in a while though.

  2. Their site doesn't mention mountaineering boots. You could probably email, but it looks like the duties they list are pretty minimal, 2.8%, so it might not be a big deal. I would guess that the savings would be more than that or you wouldn't consider the hassle in the first place.

  3. This January was just slightly rainier (1mm more total precip.) than January 1992. And here comes the sun on Sunday.

    That may be true in Canadia, but it was the third wettest month on record in Seattle.

    The early 1980's had a very strong el nino which lead to colder winters on Orcas where I grew up. We skated regularly on our pond which I don't know has frozen at all in the last fifteen years.

  4. We love Paul Allen?? Speak for yourself! It was a great business deal. He bilked us (the taxpayers) into buying him a stadium that he could make boatloads of money off. Do I have a problem with him making money? Absolutely not, but I shouldn't have to pay to help him out.

    I should have been more precise. Seahawks fans love him. Plenty of people were pissed about the stadium. I was not one, but there were plenty. I actually support tax payer assistance in sports facility construction. I believe that they are good for the area both financially and emotionally. Sports teams bring people together in a positive way. I do think that the Seahawks made one almost altruistic financial gesture this week. They chose not to show the game on the stadium big screen. They said it would not be fair to the neighboring establishments who have helped fund the stadium with increased taxes.

  5. In my ideal world, Seattle wins but Paul Allen loses. confused.gif

     

    Wow, things are different in Seattle than they are in Portland. Up here we love Paul Allen. If it weren't for him they would be the Anaheim Seaducks. Our vitriol is reserved for former owner Ken Behring. Owners aside I am just excited to watch a major team from my city play for a championship for the first time since I was four.

  6. Anyone care to guess what the elongation would be on said 70 meters of 8 mm rope? hellno3d.gif

    Given that Beal's 8.1mm rope is 37% elongation I would say about 25 meters for a 70 meter and almost 30 for an 80 meter. That assumes ideal conditions and all of the rope out, but still, 100 feet is a lot of stretch.

  7. In Search, a check box that specifies that you would like only the original post displayed and none of the replies.

    This would be nice. I would also like search to return as many results as exist in the DB. A couple of times I have been searching for a post by a specific user and the show all user's posts only returns the last 200. If the post was older than 200 I have to find less commonly used words which may not work.

  8. This is what I don't get. Mammut says to use either twin or double rope technique but they don't mention anything about the ropes being rated for both. The only rope that I've heard of passing more than one category test is the Beal Joker. If Mammut has been testing their half ropes as twins and they are passing, why don't we hear the results?

    I just went to the Mammut website and you are right they don't mention passing both tests. It seems very odd and no smart legally speaking to suggest a use for which they do not have UIAA approval. I am not sure what to say about that. I also checked the PMI website and they have some ropes that passed both the Twin and Half tests. The Verglas 8.1 and the Fusion . There may be others.

  9. You are right that clipping both strands will generate bigger forces than clipping one strand to each piece and alternating strands. What Mammut is saying is that their rope has passed the tests for both half and twin ropes. This is more and more common as rope manufacturers get better at controling elongation. The Beal Joker passed the test for twin, half and single useage. I think that you will have to be the judge of when to use half and when to you twin configuration. It will depend on the quality of the pro and the straightness of the route. If the route is ice Alex suggest in this thread that using a screamer on every screw is a good idea.

  10. climbed all day and still caught the game. 1st half on the radio drving home, and 2nd half on tv.

     

    did I mention I climbed ALL DAY????

     

    I skied all day, got out just as it was getting dark and caught the whole thing on TV. Haven't any of you heard of DVR? Of course the skiing at the Pass was lame, but atleast we were out.

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