Kyagpa

People like that should be reported and banned from climbing in the park, for obvious resons. [This message has been edited by Kyagpa (edited 07-03-2001).]

I climbed the N face of buckner last year in early july and would almost recomend that strong climbers do it in a day via Sahale Arm. When we climbed it it was all snow for the most part and not really all that steep. It seemed to be more of a glacial tour than a climb since the climbing is only like a thousand feet or so. Dont get me wrong it is a great trip to do, and I would recomend it to my friends. When we did it we camped on upper sahale arm (there are many sights there and a toilet)we climbed Sahale that evening and watched the sunset it took about 25 min from camp to the top. We then woke at first light and se off over sahale then on to the east side of the ridge crest on boston peak traversing high until you reach the point where the Boston Glacier meats the peak (not far from the summit couple hundred feet or so). then its a long traverse across the glacier toward the N face of Buckner routfinding was interesting generally trending down untill directly below the face (aprox 500 feet below where it steepens). We then headed directly toward the face and once on it we moved left thru a couple of rock bands to avoid crevasses on the main face once past we moved back right on the face and climbed the mostly 40-45 degree snow until the angle eased and we made a rising traverse to the left and then stait up to the summit. the register on the summit has or had a copy of the picture in the Becky guide of the decent route (sw face I think). you can then trverse around horshoe basin gradually losing altitude until you reach a wide gully that narows up higher an will lead you back to camp at the base of the sahale glacier. Note: The gully you come back up to camp is a wee bit nasty be sure to get thru there at least by noon or soon after. near the top It vears of slightly to the left. Good luck and have fun!

I think that safety was what mike had in mind when he replaced the bolts originally! I dont think that he would go up there to make the climb harder or esier just safer, and you have to give him credit for taking on the responsibility himself in saying he put the bolt or bolts in question in after one had failed, and then taking imediat action to reconcile the problem. Thanks Mike

what size are the pants?