Marty_Johnson

Anyone have any good beta (spray free) on the north face of the north peak of Index?

On May 18th four of us were dropped off on the Quinta Sella Glacier at 8100', just on the US side of the border. The next two days were spent skiing the 12.5 miles with heavy packs and sleds to the normal basecamp of the King Trench. On the 24th of May we establised our camp at King Col, 13,500'. After a rest day, our first one, we made a carry to the next camp located at 15,600'. Up to this point the weather was stellar, with clear skies every day! On May 30th we establised camp 4 at 17,000'. The weather is now very unprdictable as it is at times, clear, cloudy, then a white out. Temperatures reached a low of -20 to -40 F. Our thermometer only weint to -20 F. On June 2nd we discouvered that we had a little over one gallon of fuel left. fuel consumption increased dramatically due to altitude, temperature, and wind. So on June 3rd, we leaft with light day packs for the summit. Our original plan was to establish a camp 5 out on the summit platue, as the summit was stil 7.5 miles away. After reaching Prospectors Col 18,00'it was clear as why we needed that camp. It was a long way to the summit. With the weather being unstable and getting worse by the hour, and our fuel situation, we decided that we should retreat and move back to the King Col, and more fuel before being cought in a strom at 17,000. So after 21 hours of movement we arrived at the col at 12:30am on June 4th. On the 5th of June we arrived back at basecamp. June 6th we arrived back at our landing zone and were picked up on the 7th. All in all we were out 21 days, did a total of 22,300 feet of elevation gain, and covered close to 100 miles. Three of us did it in telemark gear, the other in randonee gear. One of us skiied the entire mountaint from our high point of 18,000', minus 500' of ice fall

One option to look at for the descent is the White Salmon Glacier. Once in the creek bottom Side hill through large timber on the east side of the creek until the clearcut, cross the creek , and climb up to the road. I did this after climbing the route Nov 19th of last year and it looked a lot more pleasing than downclimbing Fishers Chimneys, making a long hike out and returning to the car.

The stove is grat but the self ignition device will brake sonner or later. I got 3trips out of mine before it quit working. At that point I took it back to REI to get it fixed and they replied they could fix it but it would brake again quote: Originally posted by dane: Purchased this stove as part of my weight reduction for a multi-day trip I took this August. My stove of choice before this was an MSR Whisperlite 600. I wanted something faster, lighter, and more compact. I also considered the MSR Pocket Rocket, which is a bit lighter, but seemed flimsy, especially the leg stands which were connected to the stove with cheap hollow rivets. The quality of the materials and design on the Snow Peak stove are outstanding. Here's what I found: Positive: Light (under 4 oz!), sturdy, and compact. Piezo ignitor worked perfectly. Boiled water quickly and did not consume tons of fuel (one 110 g canister lasted me three days). Negative: None found so far. I will post any negative results. I may test this for winter use, but I bought it primarily for 3 season use. Dan E.

quote: Originally posted by dane: Purchased this stove as part of my weight reduction for a multi-day trip I took this August. My stove of choice before this was an MSR Whisperlite 600. I wanted something faster, lighter, and more compact. I also considered the MSR Pocket Rocket, which is a bit lighter, but seemed flimsy, especially the leg stands which were connected to the stove with cheap hollow rivets. The quality of the materials and design on the Snow Peak stove are outstanding. Here's what I found: Positive: Light (under 4 oz!), sturdy, and compact. Piezo ignitor worked perfectly. Boiled water quickly and did not consume tons of fuel (one 110 g canister lasted me three days). Negative: None found so far. I will post any negative results. I may test this for winter use, but I bought it primarily for 3 season use. Dan E.

Anybody been to the Bugaboos recently? I would like some info on conditions there. Thanks

size 42. Unsure of the modle. Used one time. 70$ or make offer.