David_Zeps

Anyone been to the Goat Rocks area in the last few days? How much snow is there? We're planning on going up to try Gilbert Peak next weekend from Cispus Basin and I'm wondering about ice ax, crampons, rope and pickets. Or will it be the usual annoying loose rubble? Thanks

Trip: Cotopaxi, Ecuador - Jose Ribas Hut Date: 5/13/2010 Trip Report: The route up Cotopaxi (19,350') from Jose Ribas hut (15,750') has become more complicated in the last few weeks, and according to folks at the hut the route is changing almost weekly. We climbed 5/13/10. 2 days earlier several major snow bridges on the direct route from Jose Ribas Hut had collapsed and several ladders that spanned crevasses had been destroyed by shifts in the glacier. The day before we climbed our 2 guides explored the route themselves and flagged a very convoluted route up the glacier, crossing a dozen or more snow bridges, some of which were quite airy. Parts of the route were under threatening seracs. Starting at midnight, with the guides, we(4 of us) hiked up scree and pumice for about 1000 feet directly from the hut, then climbed, roped and belayed at points through a complex series of swithchbacks, snow bridges and along a scary 30 foot 6 inch wide ice ledge (mostly in the dark by headlamp) to the summit. 6.5 hours up and about 3 hours down. There was no path in the snow and the flags placed by our guides the day before were essential to finding the route. We would have never found our way through the cravasses without the guides' homework. Snow got very soft by 8am. Gear Notes: Rope, harness, crampons, ice ax; guides used 2 ice screws and 1 long picket for protecting some dicey ice ledges and snow bridges. Warm clothes, rain pants but temps were moderate, maybe 25 degrees at the summit so thick down clothing and heavy gloves weren't needed. Temps climbed rapidly after about 7 am and we were shedding clothing on the way down. My rain pants got stolen at Jose Ribas hut, luckily I didn't need them. Watch your gear carefully. Approach Notes: We acclimated by spending a few days in Quito and Cuenca (about 9,000'), a day at Quilotoa Lake (12,900') and then 2 days at Hosteria Tambopaxi (12,500') in Cotopaxi Park. Tambo is a very comfortable place, with hiking right out the door. We did one hike to about 16,500' while at Tambopaxi and spent one day and night at Jose Ribas Hut (15,750') before climbing. We took diamox, ? if it helped but we generally felt OK.

On the way in we spent about 30 minutes getting past a really bad section of blowdown, then it was OK. Coming down, we stayed about 100 yards south of the Thielsen Trail and joined it at about 6100'. That route avoided almost all the blowdown.

Trip: Mt. Thielsen - West Side (Regular Route) Date: 6/14/2008 Trip Report: We had a great day on Mt. Thielsen 6/14/2008. The summit block is free of snow. We carried too much gear. We didn't encounter conditions requiring avy beacons, shovels and probes. We didn't need our snowshoes. In the morning the snow was hard and supported us without snowshoes, by afternoon the snow was too soft to hold the snowshoes on any appreciable slope. We never needed crampons. We could avoid snow entirely above about 8200, although at times it was easier to ascend on the edges of the remaining snowfields. If you want to see some pictures (sorry about all the portraits) check http://picasaweb.google.com/jasonthelee/MtThielsen14June2008 Gear Notes: We used a hand-line on the summit block. Approach Notes: From the trailhead off hwy 138 we followed the Thielsen trail about 1 mile until it became obscured by snow and lots of blowdown at about 6200'. We then headed East about 1.3 miles to gain the ridge at 7200' The route up the ridge is snowcovered and easy going to about 8200' when the snow gives out and scree begins. From 8200 up, it is the usual scree and loose rock on gravel.

Climb: Mt Hood-South side Date of Climb: 5/9/2006 Trip Report: The route up the south side is in great shape. We crossed the bergschrund directly up the middle of the hogsback, snow at 6 am was hard and stable but there was a separation of the upper and lower sides of the 'schrund that required a generous step-over. We protected the route above the bergschrund with a running belay using 5 pickets. The Pearly Gates were incredibly beautiful, covered with thick wind sculpted ice. Gear Notes: 5 pickets

Great report. You both must be incredibly strong. We just took 5 days to climb Challenger alone and felt THAT was quite an effort. Nice pictures.

The Challenger quad I have was edited in 1989. The horizontal datum is 1927 NAD. Sounds like you stressed less about the navigating than we did. In any case, it was essentially directly uphill. DZ

Climb: Mt. Challenger-Challenger Glacier (Wiley Lake High Route) Date of Climb: 7/22/2005 Trip Report: Aside from rain while we were climbing the summit block, the actual Challenger Glacier and rock sections of the climb were straightforward. The Challenger Glacier is in great shape, we had no problem avoiding crevasses and there was no high angle snow climbing involved in getting around the bergschrund. There was no moat between the snow and the rock. Our approach: day 1-boat shuttle to Big Beaver trailhead. Catch the boat from the dock 600' and 1/2 mile below the Happy Flat parking area on Hwy 20 east of Newhalem milepost 134. Call the resort 206 386-4437 to arrange the shuttle-$30.00 one way for up to 6 people and arrange the return shuttle. Hike 14 miles to near Beaver Pass. Day 2-from about 100 yards NW on the Big Beaver trail from the post marking the entrance to the Big Beaver stock camp, we took a compass course of 269 degrees, deviating no more than 50-75 feet from the course (need readings every 20-30 feet, it gets disorienting) bushwhacking through serious brush, first on the level, crossing 4 small streams, then on increasingly steep terrain through brush and undergrowth for about 1 mile to a bench at 5250 feet. The UTM coordinates for this bench (NAD 27 datum) are (easting) 0627199 (northing) 5414519. Once on this bench, a path leading upward to gloriously open meadows is immediately evident. This path becomes faint, crosses a rock saddle after which the path gives out and the 2 mile traverse to the south of Wiley Ridge begins. I can't give much detail of the traverse except that we followed what seemed to be the logical route, not gaining or losing much elevation. The heather and rock can be steep at times with some exposure. One party member requested a belay at one point and if wet, the route could be treacherous. We camped at Eiley lake, just at the outlet. There are 3 nice spots with great views of Luna Peak. Day 3-(rain) left camp at 630 am. We continued the traverse, past Wiley Lake to Wiley Ridge (1.5 hours) then 2 of us continued traversing west on steep snow to a notch just east of point 7374, went through the notch and descended easy rock and scree to the base of the glacier. Once on the glacier the climb was straightforward. We were off the summit, heading down the glacier in improving weather at 1130 am. Pack out was the reverse of the way in. We used 2 nuts (size 5-6) in addition to the 3 fixed pitons on the summit block and one medium sling around a flake at the very top. Gear Notes: see text Approach Notes: Need permits for camping on the Big Beaver Trail. Call the park ranger 360-873-4500 option 1 then ext 39 for info. We were told the Luna camp was full for our return trip out but there was no one there. We were all stung at least once by yellowjackets on the bushwhack section of the trail. If you are below about 5'5 in height, the brush will be over your head at times.

Not enough snow in the SE couloir to ski.

As far as I could tell, the snow level and amount on the NE side looked about the same as on our route on the PCT.

7 of 8 of us made the summit of TFJ on Saturday. PCT is snow free for the first 2-3 miles, then about 6000 feet it is snow covered. Off trail travel was easy, woods are fairly open, snow was firm and we could avoid postholing. The lower south ridge has some snow and cornices but the summit ridge and summit block were snow free. Great views from the top, lots of weather around us including a few nice sun breaks. Weather got nasty later in the day after we were well down from the summit. The hike in was surprisingly interesting, walking through the burned areas. Some flowers are reappearing, 3 kinds of violets, some beargrass and trillium. We noticed a surprising number of little frogs hopping around on the ash and charcoal of the forest floor.

Thanks, DZ

I'm looking for an expert on NW mountain weather to give a lecture to about 240 individuals interested in learning about climbing and the outdoors. Lecture would be in April 2001, about 1 hour in Portland. I would hope to cover some weather basics, interesing nuances of NW mountain weather and sources of reliable moutain weather information. Also motivate people in the lecture to learn more and give them some resurces. Tall order...... Any volunteers???