adr_901
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Posts posted by adr_901
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WEST Ridge of Stuart. Got off route and did some interesting stuff along the way. Otherwise super weekend with great climbing and great company. Take advantage of the full moon while it last!
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Our party decided to bail on the Kautz this weekend after a large block of ice nearly killed a RMI group which was next to us on the chute. I think the recent warm weather is making conditions deceptively worse then they appear. Please everyone be careful, dont ever be afraid to turn back and live to climb another day.
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We were on the east side of castle crags.
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MntHigh,
We were on Hood Monday with very on and off weather. We took advantage of a prolong break in the weather and summited by an interesting route. We went up the zig zag to the steam vents, then ascended a steep heedwall to the upper Yokum, then traveresed to the summit. We bivied at Illumination Saddle. The weather was very on and off monday but Tuesday we had to descend in white out conditions. Luckily our compass bearing lead us directly to the lift without dificulty.
I am interested if anyone else climbed Hood by this route?
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Would anyone know if The North face routes of Chair Peak will remain in condition over the next several weeks?? Any Beta would be greatly appreciated!!!
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Barrabes is great. Good customer service. They answered my email right away. I bought a pair of terminator 1 boots which retail here for $450 for only $225 and they arrived in 5 days! Shipping cost was the only down side which was about $30. The purchase was still a bargain. I bought stuff from Ebay although not consistant, every once in a while I find a true bargain. Most of the good stuff I found on ebay though gets heavily bid and the price can reach retail prices!
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Right On, sounds like a great trip! Was there any loose stuff or conditions fairly safe as far as avy risks?
I did the trip in the summer and got to ski some great corn with very nice weather.
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I read an interesting article in Couloir magazine last month about enigma couloir. It sounds pretty cool but the directions were vague. Is this the same as crooked couloir? Has anyone been up there lately to report on snow conditions?
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I have a pair of mens 8 I will sell cheap. They are Asolo expeditions. They are in great shape. I use only leathers now
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Just bought the Marmot Eiger at REI for about 60 bucks on sale. Havent tested it yet. Bought for use as a lightweight alpine pack. Its no frills, narrow profile, light weight. two ice tool loops
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Would like to get out this winter, however, the goverment is warning us about any powdery white stuff!!!
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I dont plan to add anything inspiring or thought provoking to this controversial subject. I am a father of three. I work a very demanding and stressful job ( like alot of us here) and I climb to relieve stress, maintain physical fitness, and enjoy the beauty and scenery of this great area. Because I am a father and husband I think about everything I do and keep any risk to a minimum. I think if someone wants to climb, one can pursue their passion with the same risk involved as playing around of golf. I have found myself on committing routes which had potentential to become risky, but when I really thought about what I was doing, I realized how selfish that was. It would break my heart only to imagine what life would be like without my father. I do consider it an obligation to be there for our family under any circumstance. They are all what matters in life, everything else is extra.
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We recovered a rope from liberty bell last week. Appearently got stuck on the repel. We have it if its yours!
Allen
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Any volunteers to issue doggles at the next iditarod?
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Friday we were bivied just at the base of the West Ridge and planned to summitt Sat am.
We ended up aborting the climb because it appeared a front was comming in and it was not clearing by late morning.
Did things clear up later that day or did you end up climbing through the weather anyway. Maybee we were too hasty in leaving
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2nd ID here also 1/501 Huah 92-94
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Hi David, I have a kid who likes to climb, he is five years old. I think it would be fun to get our kids together sometime. Let me know if you are interested. My email is Chugach900@yahoo.com
Thanks
Allen
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My wife hates when I climb. I have three young children and anytime I plan a trip its a harsh reminder. I have toned down the risk I take and confine myself to moderates as a compromise. Life is full of compromises that is the secret to a sucessfull marriage. There have been several times when she asked me to give it up all together. I have considered it for harmony sake, however as with most of us it is something we enjoy tremendously that the benefits far outweigh the risks. If it did mean my marriage I would of course chose to stay married and be a father to my kids. I have managed all these years to keep the peace but at times its been hard. So I try to have my cake and eat it, it means I climb much less then I want to and be willing to walk away from it completely if I have to.
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Thanks TTT. I will post a report when we return
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We are planning a trip to rainier the weekend of the 27th. We are thinking of the Klautz or Fuers Finger routes. Any recent beta? Does anyone know if the routes will remain in shape until then, if not then any other suggestions? THANKS
Allen
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We were on Adams Glacier On the 29th of June. I posted a trip report. Alex and Tom were on the route the same day as well and their trip report is posted. I can give you details of the route if you want, feel free to email me. Chugach900@yahoo.com
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Thanks snow leopard. I think it was high on the ridge below the snow field, to mid way down is when I noticed it missing. It has a red leash.
I didnt look at the NW ridge in much detail. but it seemed like there was not much rockfall at its base. I can see it becoming a bowling alley when the temps go up though.
Good luck
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Climbed the Adams Glacier route this weeked. We encountered only one other party. The conditions of the route were overall good. There was a large amount of avalanche debris on the lower ice field were a large part of that face slid down. Up higher the conditions were a bit icy but not too bad. I used a second ice tool, my partner did not. Crevases were not a problem. The few snow bridges we had to cross were solid. The upper aspect of the route also had recent slab avalanches but seemed stable at the time, but could potentially be a problem in the near future. Overall the route is in good shape but I suspect it wont remain that way for long.
By the way I lost my Black Diamond carbon prophet on the decent on the North Ridge. If anyone comes across it I would greatly appreciate its return!!!! REWARDS!!!!
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I lost a black diamond carbon black prophet ice tool on the north ridge of Adams Sunday during our decent. If anyone finds it and returns it, their reward will be great in heaven ( and on earth ) because you will make me very happy
Thanks
Allen
Chugach900@yahoo.com
Conditions on North Ridge of Mt Stuart?
in Climber's Board
Posted
Was on the West ridge this weekend. The approach to ingalls pas is snow free. crossing over to the lake was no problem. There are still snow fields around the lake, and early in the morning actually made for some pleasant walking over the normal scree. The path toward the west ridge was snow free. The area aroung goat pass appeared reasonable. Stuart itself is virtually free of snow except down in the gulleys. It got a bit warm as the sun came out, just be sure to bring plenty of water on the route. Have fun.
Allen