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#1142587 - 08/30/15 04:22 PM [TR] Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete 8/27/2015
denalidevo Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 11/22/04
Posts: 225
TRs: 57 Photos: 484
Loc: Lynnwood
Trip: Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete

Date: 8/27/2015

Trip Report:
My friend Michael was practicing for his AMGA alpine exam and needed some "clients" so Nick & I signed up. Initially we were going to climb Mount Triumph in a two day push, but the widespread fires nixed that option. Instead we switched to a single day assault on Dragontail Peak.

I worked until 9:30pm Wednesday evening, packed at the last minute, getting to bed at 11pm and was up at 2:30am - ouch! I left Lynnwod at 3am, arriving at the trailhead at 5:30am. Nick pulled up at 5:45am. We discovered fellow guides Danny and Patrick were there too and planning on climbing the same route - small world.

Timeline:
Hiking at 6:05am
Climbing at 9:45am
Black Pillar 11:40am
At 2:11pm we'd reached a comfy ledge at 8,000 feet and took a short break
We mitigated much of the loose groveling by staying on the ridge proper at all times, we even avoided the 3rd class walk up to the summit by taking a direct 5.7(?) variation up the summit block - super fun!
Summited at 3:40pm in just under six hours, 10 minute break on top
Two rappels to ground - it wasn't necessary and might have been quicker (and safer?) to walk down the snowfield
6:55pm we were at the north end of Colchuck Lake where Nick & Horst took a dip
8:43pm we reached the trailhead in the dark, 14 hrs, 38 min car-to-car; Danny & Patrick arrived minutes later

View from Colchuck Lake


Approaching the base of Serpentine Arete


Danny & Patrick


Michael gets us started


Nick: I like being guided!


Colchuck from Serpentine Arete


Michael on the first 5.8 pitch


Lookout - guides everywhere!


Summit in sight


Michael leading our direct 5.7 variation to the summit


Summit goodness


Obligatory goat shot on Aasgard Pass


Dragontail: Serpentine Arete photo albom on Flickr

Gear Notes:
Single rack to 3", AMGA guide leading everything.

Approach Notes:
No snow at base, didn't bring axe or 'pons.
_________________________
climb.denalidevo.net

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#1142748 - 09/04/15 12:46 PM Re: [TR] Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete 8/27/2015 [Re: denalidevo]
CapitalNathan Offline
n00b

Registered: 12/07/09
Posts: 28
TRs: 0 Photos: 0
Loc: Olympia
Great pictures! I'm curious about the rappels you made to complete your descent. Several weeks ago I climbed up the Backbone and ended up making the descent in the dark. We were expecting a heinous, snowy slide fest but we stumbled upon some rap anchors complete with a 70 meter rope. We pulled up the rope, it looks fine and we ended up rapping off it. Was it still there for your descent?

Does anyone know who might have left it or why?

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#1142757 - 09/04/15 09:19 PM Re: [TR] Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete 8/27/2015 [Re: denalidevo]
stevetimetravlr Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 07/29/08
Posts: 1729
TRs: 2 Photos: 270
Loc: Washington
Great TR!

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#1142784 - 09/07/15 11:55 AM Re: [TR] Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete 8/27/2015 [Re: CapitalNathan]
denalidevo Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 11/22/04
Posts: 225
TRs: 57 Photos: 484
Loc: Lynnwood
There was a rope there when we descended. We rapp'ed on our own line, pulled the other and hiked it out. Don't have a clue why it was there, but it looked like it had seen some weather. Wouldn't climb on it.
_________________________
climb.denalidevo.net

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