[TR] Buckner Mountain - North Face 7/21/2012

[Devin27]

Trip: Buckner Mountain - North Face

 

Date: 7/21/2012

 

Trip Report:

Taking advantage of the nice weather, we headed for the North Face of Mount Buckner for our Boealps Intermediate Climbing Class Ice Outing. We did not actually find any ice, but did have a great weekend.

 

Climbers: Devin (Scribe), Sara, Jim and BK

 

We planned to carryover by climbing up to Boston-Sahale Col, across Boston Glacier, up the North Face of Buckner then down the SW side and back down the Sahale Arm. Sleeping in at the Trailhead, we headed up Boston Basin in low clouds around 8am. It is amazing how much longer the trail is now without all the snow that was on it a few months back when we got weathered off a Forbidden attempt.

 

 

We reached the tree line and solid snow as we opened into Boston Basin under sunny skies and an awesome view. So many peaks to climb, so little time.

 

After a short break to watch Marmot mortal combat, we headed up the snow and eventually roped up for the Quien Sabe Glacier. Snow was consolidated and made for fast travel all the way to the col. Since we got a late start, there was a ton of people heading down from the col while we were heading up. The bergschrund at the top of the Quien Sabe is easily passable but might start to be an issue in a few weeks.

Now some shenanigans began as we had to climb around the pile O’ crap (Boston Peak). I had a desire to climb Boston Peak (Why I wanted to do this even I do not know, I blame the Bulger’s). However the climb turned out to be even more ridiculous that I expected. We followed the ledges down to the Boston Glacier, which was actually very straight forward route finding even though it was absolutely terrifying because of the ridiculously loose rock. I almost had a very bad day when a huge boulder slid right above me and almost got my leg before nearly falling on BK.

 

 

Once on the glacier, Sara and Jim headed to make camp while I talked BK into trying Boston with me. We climbed on the rock next to the Boston Glacier towards the summit block of Boston, however we transitioned to the glacier too early I think and ended up separated from the summit block by an impassible Bergschrund. At this point it was getting late in the day and we decided to pass on Boston this time. The Boston glacier is surprising broken up and navigating to our flat spot for camp was interesting but not extremely difficult.

 

 

Up at 3am and walking by 4 towards the North Face of Mount Bucker. It took us an hour to cross the Boston Glacier to the base of the route. Roped up and climbing the route when the sun started to rise. The lower North face is pretty broken up but you can easily traverse to the adjacent snow field to avoid all of the moats. Snow was perfect for kicking steps but hard enough to make for fast travel. Clouds moved in as we neared the summit, but route finding was extremely easy so no issues.

Hit the summit at about 10am. Found only two other entries in the summit register from the year, one from the day before. As we headed into Horseshoe basin the skies started to clear. Now that we have completed the straightforward technical climbing, time now apparently for the shenanigan filled descent down the Sahale Arm.

 

 

Crossing Horseshoe basin was more annoying than anything. Ages of traversing on a hill are less than fun. The “snow finger” that you’re supposed to climb to exit the basin was pretty steep with an unfriendly runout onto the rocks, so we went around to the broad gully to climbers left. At the top we made the mistake of going right around the large moat to get to Sahale camp. We should have gone left up the snow ramp. Instead we ended up on a steep sketchy snow bridge to get to Sahale camp. I do not recommend going this way.

And because we needed more fun, here comes the whiteout. After some wandering and eventually finding the trail (yay GPS) we made it back to the cars and to Olive Garden for dinner.

Great trip, but man do my feet hurt

 

 

Gear Notes:

4 Pickets per team, 2 Screws (did not need) Crampons, Ice axe and ice tool and a prayer to the gods of loose rock to let us pass.

 

Approach Notes:

Trail is clear all the way to Boston Basin. Getting out of Horseshoe basin and back to Sahale was far more of a pain, though the ledges down Boston to Boston Glacier were a close second