[TR] Adams- North Ridge 8/5/2005

[Couloir]

Climb: Adams-North Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 8/5/2005

 

Trip Report:

So, I took what everyone said about heading up the North Ridge this time of year and with a little positive feedback from gregfuller I decided to go for it.

 

My overall impression? Great climb. Hard work on crumbly Cascade choss, but in general a great climb. Yeah, in places, it's a step up and two back with full packs, but it was interesting terrain with some amazing views. I was also with some really great folks, so it was worth it.

 

After screwing around and wasting time in Portland for a couple of hours, we finally made it to the North side and left Killen Creek TH around 11am. It was already warm and the flies were at full strength. Nice straightforward trail from the rig to PCT, then to the end of the climbers trail. There were a handful of others on the trail, but once we got to the PCT junction and onto the climbers trail and beyond, we had the area to ourselves. We made great time and the mountain was looking incredible.

 

 

At the end of the climber's trail there wasn't too much trail at all so we wandered up in the direction of the North Ridge. Soon we came to a small body of water and though the altimeter read slightly lower that 7505', I assumed that this was lake 7505 on the map. Well, it wasn't. We scrambled up another hill and there it was. Really a beautiful lake.

 

 

We left there and worked our way up to the North Ridge. We came across trail here and there, and of course there were plenty of cairns, so routefinding wasn't an issue at all.

 

We gained the base of the ridge and it became immediately clear why some people don't like this route in the summer. Looking up the route, it was very much loss volcanic Cascade choss. We very briefly tossed around the idea of setting up our bivy there (~8400'), but it was only 4:00pm and we thought at this pace, maybe we'll shoot for the summit and sleep there.

 

So, we donned our helmets and began the process of winding our way around and up the ridge, skirting the various gendarmes and clawing our way up and around class 3 & 4 shtuff with full packs on. It was still a beautiful day and it was beginning to cool down, so the climbing really was quite enjoyable.

 

 

It was however a bit slow going and after a couple of hours of not-so productive climbing we decided that the summit might be too lofty of an objective for that day. So, we decided to bivy at the next site we came across.

 

Incidentally, as I was told by gregfuller, there are some really neat bivy sites that are literally perched on this ridge in various places. Any of which provide ample water (in the form of snow) and an incredible place to lay your head looking off in the distance to Rainier and St. Helens, not to mention the Adams Glacier off to your left (climber's right) and the Lava Glacier to your right (climber's left).

 

We finally made it to our spot at ~10,400' and layed out our bivies and tent. It was an amazing night.

 

 

We had some good grub, melted a lot of snow to fill our bottles and hit the sack around 10 for a 3am wake-up.

 

We got a late start but ended up leaving our bivy at 4:30am. It was a beautiful morning and the remaining part of the route was really nice 3rd and 4th class fun before we got to the final summit snow pitch that looks over the upper Adams Glacier.

 

 

 

 

Two hours from our bivy to the summit and we had the place to ourselves. We never saw anyone on the whole North side.

 

We decided that going DOWN the North Ridge wouldn't be so much sketchy as it would be a huge hassle. With full packs on we just decided to head over the summit and down the South side. Into the hords of people and past the sewer that is the Lunch Counter.

 

One of us volunteered to get a ride (part way) and then hitch hike back to where we were parked on the North side. Unfortunately, that was a 4 hour ordeal, but we made it out in great shape. Awesome trip!

 

Thanks again gregfuller for the great beta! It was very useful.

 

Gear Notes:

Ice axe (didn't really use except as a walking stick up high); crampons (didn't need); hardhat (just to be on the safe side)

 

Approach Notes:

Trail is in great shape. The route up the North Ridge is mostly intuitive. And as Becky points out, when in doubt, stay on the west side of the exposed gendarmes.