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#1026099 - 07/11/11 10:38 PM [TR] Mount Lyell & Mount Maclure - Lyell Glacier 7/9/2011
off_the_hook Offline

Registered: 05/15/03
Posts: 186
TRs: 90 Photos: 13448
Loc: San Carlos, CA
Trip: Mount Lyell & Mount Maclure - Lyell Glacier

Date: 7/9/2011

Trip Report:

"The Roof of Yosemite"

A climb of Mount Lyell (13,120 ft), the highest point in Yosemite National Park, and nearby Mount Maclure (12,960 ft) via Lyell Canyon and Lyell Glacier. The trip entailed about ~30 miles (22 miles along the JMT and the remainder on snow and rock). The trip took 8:50 RT, which was 65 minutes faster than I climbed these two peaks last time in 2007.

There has been substantial snow melt recently, but still a lot above 10,000 feet. At first I thought I could take the firm snow to nearly the summit of Lyell, but the slope became progressively icier and steeper and despite only being a couple hundred vertical feet from the summit I had to retreat to the East Arete, which turned out to be a fun scramble. On the way down I took the central chute to a snow finger that entailed a section of downclimbing on rock. The standard route via Lyell-Maclure col appears to be more difficult at the moment with the aforementioned steep and icy snow covering what would normally be the class 3/4 rock scramble. Mount Maclure was a straightforward snow climb and then class 3 scramble along the ridgeline. The views from both Lyell and Maclure were spectacular, and included the Lyell Canyon 4,000+ ft below, the rugged Ritter/Banner area, the Clark Range, Nothern Yosemite, and even Half Dome and the Yosemite Valley. There was excellent clarity and bluebird skies.

Lyell Canyon was not as soggy as I had anticipated, but it still had plenty of wet and muddy sections. Once I gave up trying to keep my feet dry it wasn't so bad. I met several Pacific Crest Trail thru hikers on the 11 miles of trail through Lyell Canyon to near Donohue Pass. They all reported copious snow on their journey through the Southern High Sierra and I was not surprised considering the prodigious winter snowpack.

Mount Lyell (left) and Mount Maclure (right) tower 4,000+ feet above the head of Lyell Canyon

From L to R: Banner Peak, Mount Ritter, Rodgers Peak

Ritter and Rodgers

Waugh Lake (foreground) and Gem Lake (background)

Lyell Canyon

Mount Maclure from Mount Lyell

Some technical downclimbing

Florence Peak, Half Dome and Yosemite Valley

Northern Yosemite Peaks

The Clark Range

The Clark Range

Clark Range, Florence Peak, Half Dome, and Yosemite Valley

Mount Lyell, Mount Ritter and Rodgers Peak from Mount Maclure

Mount Lyell, Mount Ritter and Rodgers Peak from Mount Maclure

Lyell Canyon

Lyell Canyon

Last look at Lyell and Maclure from the head of Lyell Canyon

Gear Notes:
Black Diamond Neve strap crampons, ice axe, Ultimate Direction Wasp Pack, First Endurance EFS drink mix and liquid shot

Approach Notes:
Muddy and flooded sections in Lyell Canyon, solid snow above 10k.

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#1026180 - 07/12/11 11:29 AM Re: [TR] Mount Lyell & Mount Maclure - Lyell Glacier 7/9/2011 [Re: off_the_hook]
silence Offline

Registered: 08/23/06
Posts: 43
TRs: 0 Photos: 3
how about some kind of trail report .. like your approach and conditions on it .. anyhow great pix .. congrats on the climb

Edited by silence (07/13/11 06:28 AM)


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