Trip: Mt Rexford - FA - North Couloir
Date: 5/27/2012
Trip Report:
Shaun Neufeld, Maxim de Jong, and I climbed this route on Sunday. We crossed Centre Creek below the route at 7 AM, summitted at 2 PM and were back at Shaun's truck in Centre Creek by 5:45 PM.
Conditions were great except for some icefall due to the warm day and occasional small wet slush avalanches off the sunny aspects of Nesakwatch Spire.
The route forks left about 100m up the Priest-Coupe Couloir leading
It's worthy of repeats, albeit conditions dependant. Getting across the schrund can be near-impossible later in the year, and the approach in winter (I can attest from previous attempts) is a real drag except with perfect conditions.
Aside from that, just about any route from Centre Creek is good. The east and NE ridges have reputations as pure rock climbs but they hold snow quite late in the year and are in mountaineering climb shape much more than in rock climb shape. I don't think the ea