ivan Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Trip: Beacon Rawk - Jensen's Rimjob (5.8 C2 (5.12?) III - 5 pitches) Date: 11/23/2008 Trip Report: do you have a shit-ton of big-gear lying 'round the house and no clue where to put it to use? then here's the route for you! inside the vortex today - dry-heaved and almost blew-chunks all over myself after getting a lung-full of lichen denalidave = patient belayer, here pimped out w/ all our colorful shit we skipped the optional hard pitch to get to the notch - climbing the original first pitch in hurricane force winds was challenge enough cool weather - is that st. peters across the way? the wind made for trippy waves the .11a finger crack at the start of pitch 3 - did it w/ aiders this time - note the hurricane carrying off my etriers - spent most of the day cursing and trying to reclaim them can't say that i'm the first to have climbed the route i'm dubbing "jensen's rimjob," but there's no history or route name in the olson guide - it's a fun, aid-tacular optional end to jensen's ridge that ultimately returns to the nothc a half pitch below the trail - we used all the big gear we brought - was hoping ot stick to the left, wide chimney the whole way, but was forced right - eventually had to zig-zag back left to avoid giant stacked block death land - veeeery overhanging! dusk fell as we topped out the last technical pitch and scrambled up to the trail - venus and jupiter approach - brilliant, blustery day Gear Notes: your menu of big gear 1 #6 2 #5 2 #4 1 #3.5 2 #3 3 #2 smaller shit 2 #1 2 .75 3 .5 3 yellow alien 2 green alien 1 blue alien couple big nuts camels Approach Notes: the old reliable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbob Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 couple big nuts - Looks like they are definitely required for this route Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miker Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Looks like your standard by normal Ivan fuck fest of lichen and scary rocks. So the pretty line to the right was not so pretty once you headed up it, huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 24, 2008 Author Share Posted November 24, 2008 Looks like your standard by normal Ivan fuck fest of lichen and scary rocks. So the pretty line to the right was not so pretty once you headed up it, huh? it was a pleasant diversion from the big cam-defying funky crack/chimney, and when it ended in nastiness, i was able to lean way out and get a #4 back into the left system and follow it up - was dismayed at first to think i wouldn't be able to get back to the jensen's notch (the rimjob spits you out in this very funky and cool cave, painted in this thick wild orange, small-grained lichen) and have to make a sketchy anchor, but luckily a small face crack and some decent chimney climbing got me back to the happy place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Why is this not in spray? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Why is this not in spray? Because it's a trip report. There's actually a special section for them, which is why he posted it there. Did you know there is a climbing forum, too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Why is this not in spray? Because it's a trip report. There's actually a special section for them, which is why he posted it there. Did you know there is a climbing forum, too? LOL! Nice Ivan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Because it's a trip report. I love trip reports. I love looking at the pictures....but can we call a spade a spade please. A trip report is nothing but spray. "Hey....look at what I climbed this weekend"! Is it not spray to talk about yourself? Even if it’s cool and people like it? I think so……. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Because it's a trip report. I love trip reports. I love looking at the pictures....but can we call a spade a spade please. A trip report is nothing but spray. "Hey....look at what I climbed this weekend"! Is it not spray to talk about yourself? Even if it’s cool and people like it? I think so……. Do you not notice a difference when you go to spray and peruse those posts? Everyone else does. Calling it spray implys that somehow this post is a bad thing despite you saying that you like it. Consider this: the rest of us want it just the way it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Calling it spray implys that somehow this post is a bad thing despite you saying that you like it. I disagree. Why are you saying spray is bad? I dont think so. Spray is the reason alot of folks keep coming back to cc.com. Spray is good. Trip reports are even better. But, I believe trip reports to be spray. In its purest form. Lets get it straight. I LOVE TRIP REPORTS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 24, 2008 Author Share Posted November 24, 2008 Lets get it straight. I LOVE TRIP REPORTS. and, straightly, other folks love it when trip reports are spray-free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 Because it's a trip report. I love trip reports. I love looking at the pictures....but can we call a spade a spade please. A trip report is nothing but spray. "Hey....look at what I climbed this weekend"! Is it not spray to talk about yourself? Even if it’s cool and people like it? I think so……. With that line of thinking, most of the forums should just be called spray, spray and more spray... Granted, Ivan does a TR from every trip to the bathroom and back but I think this one is still in the right category. Maybe they can give Ivan his own forum so as not to upset the boner? We can call it Epic Ivan's Trippin-Spray-Fest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 24, 2008 Author Share Posted November 24, 2008 to desist from spray for a member, can someone confirm if that is st peters all angelic in the fall sun? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 and, straightly, other folks love it when trip reports are spray-free How can you have a spray free trip report when reporting your climbing with-in itself is spraying in its purist form? Once again….dont get me wrong….I have almost come to rely on Ivans trip reports for what beacon still looks like….but its just spray. I don’t see how you don’t see that…… If I showed up at Jims house for movie night and talked about all the climbs I did that day with pictures….you guys would tell me to quit SPRAYING and STFU…..what is the difference? So if you post on CC.com its not spray? On a side note. Ivan…I have enjoyed all your trip reports and pictures. Its super good spray…..I love spray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fgw Posted November 24, 2008 Share Posted November 24, 2008 to desist from spray for a member, can someone confirm if that is st peters all angelic in the fall sun? i think the obvious one above shadow line is Katanai (sp?) Rock. if so, dome would be beyond & probably obscured by haze. Katanai from west: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 It wasn't that windy out there! OK, it was... I spent my day running aid laps up the first half of Free for Some, then huddling behind a big rock, snickers at Ivan's suffering. One of those days where you hands and legs are numb, but your shirt is soaked in sweat. Good times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 ivan, the second pitch of psychic wound is a kinda fun aid pitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 25, 2008 Author Share Posted November 25, 2008 ivan, the second pitch of psychic wound is a kinda fun aid pitch i thought psychic wound ended at the dutchman anchor? i did the upper pitch of the dutchman this summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 26, 2008 Author Share Posted November 26, 2008 TR ADDENUM: unmentioned in the paltry text above was da epic losing of da extra set of etriers at the top of pitch 4 - awkward reach down to unclip the last big cam when going free into the chamber below the last bolt anchor - somehow i unclipped the biner from my daisy chain and the whole works was lost to the tempest - did the rim-job w/ just a single pair, which detracted from da sickness returned in the gloaming 2night w/ miker (figured, since i'd borrowed 'em from him, he might as well go find where i lost 'em!) - totally mismangled head moment - lost and schwacking through the dripping bush - wandered out onto the talus and down virginal thick carpets of lush moss, interspersed w/ pristine beer and water bottles cast off from the west side trail - how foolish to hope to find the etriers in this wasteland, but holy-fuck, is that them hanging of the lower branches of the giant tree w/ the bizarre park sign direclty bolted into the living bark, declaring "no climbing!?!" (well, okay, i'll be certain not to climb on THAT tree) great views of jensen's from down there - The Brethern must reclaim those routes - jeff thomas put in a start this summer, but much more is needed - then climb them while someone's taking pix thought about posting a seperate TR for the circumnav w/ made by bashing down through the thorns and oak back up to the traintrack, but figured i shouldn't make a move on tvash just yet made a day of it by pushing on to denalidaves to swip miker's jug back from the snarling dog of death! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted November 26, 2008 Share Posted November 26, 2008 So does your last post imply you did indeed found them? I'm sure you spent an hour or three hunting down my nut tool too, right? Be careful, that dog might lick you to death! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted November 26, 2008 Author Share Posted November 26, 2008 found'em'indeed dave - and still connected to the same biner, so i don't for the life of me understand how you only saw a biner flyign through the air, and not the 2 kites attached to them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted November 26, 2008 Share Posted November 26, 2008 Holy miracle Batman, I'm not sure what I saw flying by but it was moving fast... I can't believe you stumbled upon them in the dark. Maybe your Karma is not nearly as bad as I'd predicted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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