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[TR] Nooksack Tower- North Face 8/28/2006


marcus

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Climb: Nooksack Tower-North Face(Bertulis Route)

 

Date of Climb: 8/28/2006

 

Trip Report:

Darin(dberdinka)and myself hiked in to an awesome bivy with running water ca. 5800' on ridge. Recommend this over bivy sites at toe of route. Next morning 90 minutes across Price Glacier, contoured low to turn schrund on far right. Three belayed pitches off the deck to three simul-blocks and then three belayed pitches to finish. At P12 or P13 area we descended ledges west slightly in order to access "strenuous lieback crack" described in CAG - actually a loose corner(I think 'strenuous' refers to the mental aspect) that brought us to the upper ridge.

Do not rap off slings on summit into wide couloir below! Instead downclimb ridge(150ft?) to first of many jinky rat's nest rap stations, trending first skier's left, then right. After about a dozen rope-eater raps, we came to the 'Beckey' couloir. To celebrate the ~1200ft of ice/neve we now had to descend, I launched one poon sailing into a bottomless moat and the other one bouncing down the couloir. It still seemed too easy, so with a couple hours of daylight still left we jammed one end of a rope into a moat so well we had to cut it. We rapped the rock band to the east, where a snow bridge across the schrund defied the laws of gravity long enough for us to scamper across. From there we did the One Poon Lindy Hop(Darin, thanks for the patient belay!) through slots back to our happy bivy.

 

 

 

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Gear Notes:

Single set to 4", pins, stoppers and tri-cams.

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Right on, gents. Nooksack Tower is just plain gorgeous and also one of the hardest summits to obtain in the State, as well as attached to what is probably THE quintessential Cascade peak. This is one of my favorite Cascade climbs - all things considered.

 

From what I've gathered, you made a good move heading right to the "strenuous cracks" instead of taking the tempting cracks heading up and left on that "headwall."

 

You didn't need those crampons anyway.

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