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[TR] Banks Lake - Orange Wall Area camping 6/2/2011


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Trip: Banks Lake - Orange Wall Area camping

 

Date: 6/2/2011

 

Trip Report:

My girlfirend and I went out to meet up with Mark (Hanman) and his family to spend a relaxing four day weekend at Banks lake. He had a private campsite picked out at the north end of the inlet below Orange wall were we could enjoy easy access to some spectacular climbing and a secluded campsite. Our weekend started out a little rough though with winds picking up in the afternoon on Thursday while we were trying to move six people two dogs and a plethora of stuff out to the campsite.

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Our successful route is in red and the detour route is in blue.

 

Mark took me, my dog, and a load of gear on the first trip and made it no problem. But after returning to the boat launch the winds crept in and created a 3-4 foot chop which didn't do to well for our 12-foot skiff. With an occupied kayak tied to each side of the boat and hefty load the winds were too much and both kayaks capsized sending our signicifant others into the lake. Fortunatly the only losses were a life jacket and a bag of chips.

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Happy campers waiting out the wind.

 

After waiting for 3 hours Mark brought his eldest daughter, dog, and another load to the site only to show up exhausted from fighting the waves. While I on the other hand was stir crazy from not knowing what was happening. So I gung hoed it back to the beach only knowing the location was right of the two big islands. Upon my arrival I found three unhappy ladies who were unwilling to assualt the windy lake. I gave my girlfriend no choice about leaving the beach, but I had to leave Marks wife and youngest at the beach to spend their first night at Banks lake alone at a random beach. We returned Friday morning during calmer winds to retrieve the stranded souls and enjoyed camping, fishing, swimming, kayaking, and climbing for the rest of the sunny weekend.

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Campsite as seen from the orange wall side of the Inlet.

 

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More personal view of the digs.

 

Now to the climbing. Friday morning we decided to start out on the middle of Orange wall heading up the stunning 5 pitch, 5.10A, Heart of Stone.IMG_2310.jpg

Author leading pitch 2 Heart of Stone 10A (HOS).

 

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Mark leading Pitch 3 HOS.

 

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Mark following Pitch 4 HOS.

Pitch 3 and 4 both went at 5.8 and were described in "Rock Climbs of Central Washington" (The Book) as slightly gritty, but we both found them to be highly enjoyable.

 

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Mark leading the final pitch of HOS. Great positon and views.

 

From the summit of Orange wall we took in the views and enjoyed a liesurly walk-off to the north back to our campsite.

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Hot tub with a view anyone?

 

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Campsite as seen from the walk-off.

 

After enjoying the morning climb we hung out around the campsite fishing for bass, swimming and doing a little kayaking.

 

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Even dogs like kayaking.

 

Later that evening Mark, my girlfirend and I returned to the south side of Orange wall to have a go at the 5.8, 4 pitch route Lesser Evil. As described by Mountiansloth in a TR from the previous weekend the start of this climb can be difficult, to say the least, to find. After searching for the start we found a belay bolt and I headed up the first 5.7 pitch that seemed more like 5.9+ only to get lost and drawn in by the second belay station of Highway 2. Needless to say after a 40+ foot 5th class runout across the mossiest portion of the wall I decided to bail and not subject my cohorts to the experience. No pics from this catastrophe. Way to get it Mountainsloth.

 

Saturday brought more fun in the Orange Wall Area. For the morning climb we decided to hit up Seam-iotics on Post Modern wall, this 2 pitch 5.9 links up with Sky's the limit, 5.8 1 pitch to get you to the summit of Post Modern wall. This route was definetly the best of the trip with a full on chimney, and a 60-foot finger crack in a spectacular setting. The finish on Sky's the limit is the only way to go.

 

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Looking up the first pitch of Seam-iotics.

 

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Looking down through the chimney of pitch 1. Not quite big enough for back to foot climbing.

 

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Author leading pitch 2 finger crack.

 

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Looking down the awesome finger crack.

 

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Looking up Sky's the limit.

 

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Author following Sky's the limit.

 

From the summit of Post Modern wall we enjoyed the views before rapping Differance, The route to the climbers left of Seam-iotics. 3 raps to the ground.

 

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Barker Canyon from Post Modern Wall Summit.

 

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Campsite as seen from Summit.

 

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Sweet Panorama looking South from Summit.

 

After that enjoyable morning romp we headed back to camp for more of the same.

 

We enjoyed beer from our onsite cooler.

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Mark Caught a good size Walleye.

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And I found a great cliff for jumping off just south of our camp site on the orange wall side.

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Along with good jumping the cliff provided an opportunity for a little DWS.

Banks Lake DWS attempt 1

Banks Lake DWS success

A Couple of videos if you're interested.

 

That evening our climbing jaunt took us just south of Post Modern wall to a series of single pitch sport routes that allowed my girfriend to actually climb something instead of listen to me yell and curse about not falling, and watching out for rocks and such. We hit up Soup's on 5.8-, Paparazzi 5.9, and Celebrities 5.10b, all worth while face climbs. Sorry no pictures, forgot the camera.

Of interesting note, for those still reading, a passing fisherman who was commenting on how crazy it was to rock climb, told of a great white wall of granite that was overhanging and stood 500-feet tall not far to the north of Banks lake. Maybe it was a fishermans tale, but maybe, just maybe it actually exists. I'm going to check it out some time soon, see what it's all about.

 

Sunday was the day of departure and was nothing like arriving on Thursday.

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Sunrise Sunday morning. Can you find my dog? I love my dog.

 

One load delivered to the cars Saturday night and two loads on sunday saw us leaving Barker Canyon by 9:30 AM. Mark and his family headed home while My girlfriend and I drove around the lake and took a quick stroll up Steamboat rock.

 

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Orange wall inlet as seen from Steamboat Rock.

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Post Modern wall, the prominent chimney of Seam-iotics can be seen in the lower right portion of the wall.

 

It was a great trip with great friends. I can't wait to get back to Banks lake to enjoy more of what the area has to offer.

 

Gear Notes:

Full rack and draws for climbing, Plenty of water and TP for camping, The small-mouth love Blue Fox #5 spinners, and a boat slightly larger then 12-feet long might be useful if you plan to transport 6 or more people. A WDFW parking pass is required for Barker Canyon, but it is still cheaper then parking at Steamboat State Park.

 

Approach Notes:

Approach from Barker Canyon Boat Launch which is 10 mi N & W of Grand Coulee on Hwy 174 to Barker Canyon rd follow for 6.1 mi and turn left at the sign. There is a hiking route to Orange wall described in The Book, but it looks long.

The rest is shown on the map.

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Nice! I just checked out Banks Lake for the first time this spring. I've been wanting to go back with a boat ever since. I love the relaxed pace of your trip (especially the onsite cooler). For me, that was what Banks Lake was all about: Sun, beach and climbing. Thanks for posting!

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For me, that was what Banks Lake was all about: Sun, beach and climbing. Thanks for posting!

 

Right on brother! Any other style at Banks would be uncivilized!

 

Nice work on HOS. Easily one of my favorite climbs out there. Gonna have to check out post modern wall next time I am out there as well as the devils tower right next to the orange wall. I had a good glimpse of the climbs on it from Lesser evil and they looked exciting.

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If Ultima thule wall is where I think it is then it is in the next inlet to the west. Hard to make it that far when there are good climbs only 5 minutes in the boat from our campsite. Definetly going to return there again and will hit up Ultima Thule.

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Ultima Thule Wall is just left of the Orange Wall as you are facing it. Kind of hidden in profile, it has some stellar looking cracks and overhangs when you get close to it. In this photo, it is the wall that casts the shadow in the photo on the left. I'm sure you guys saw it, but with the Orange Wall right there, its hard to go single pitch cragging I'm sure!

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